Amiga Plus 1995 #2/Amiga Plus CD - 1995 - No. 2.iso/internet/faq/englisch/rec.bycicles

Text File | 1995-04-11 | 350.1 KB | 8,090 lines

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part1

Last modified:  February 19, 1995

------------------------------

Subject: 1  Introduction

Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information

The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful.  Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and and some are condensed from postings.  Answers include the name and
email address of the author.  If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it.

If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below.

Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen.  If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary.

This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers
around the 15th of the month.  It is also available via anonymous ftp from:

   <ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*>
   <ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc/>
   <ftp://ugle.unit.no/local/biking/faq*>

Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.


Mike Iglesias
[e-mail]


------------------------------

Subject: 2  Index

(! means updated since last FAQ.  + means new section.)

  1  Introduction

  2  Index

  3  Administrivia
     3.1  Abbreviations
     3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access
     3.3  Archives
     3.4  Posting Guidelines
     3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

  4  Rides
     4.1  Maps
     4.2  Touring supplies
     4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
     4.4  Warm Showers List

  5  Racing
     5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
     5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
     5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs

  6  Social
     6.1  Bicycling in America
     6.2  League of American Bicyclists
     6.3  Rules for trail riding

  7  Marketplace
     7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
     7.2  Bike Trailers
     7.3  One Less Car T-Shirts
     7.4  Panniers and Racks
     7.5  Clothing materials
     7.6  Seats
     7.7  Women's Saddles
     7.8  Women's Bikes
     7.9  Bike Rentals
     7.10  Bike Lockers
     7.11  Bike computer features
     7.12  Recumbent Bike Info
     7.13  Buying a Bike

  8  Tech
     8.1  Technical Support Numbers
     8.2  Ball Bearing Grades
     8.3  SIS Cable Info
     8.4  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
     8.5  Lubricating Chains
     8.6  Wear and Gear Slippage
     8.7  Adjusting Chain Length
     8.8  Hyperglide chains
     8.9  Bottom Bracket Info
     8.10  Crank noises
     8.11  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
     8.12  Biopace chainrings
     8.13  Snakebite flats
     8.14  Blown Tubes
     8.15  Mounting Tires
     8.16  More Flats on Rear Tires
     8.17  What holds the rim off the ground?
     8.18  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
     8.19  Reusing Spokes
     8.20  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
     8.21  Presta Valve Nuts
     8.22  Ideal Tire Sizes
     8.23  Indexed Steering
     8.24  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes
     8.25  Seat adjustments
     8.26  Cleat adjustments
     8.27  SIS Adjustment Procedure
     8.28  Where to buy tools
     8.29  Workstands
     8.30  Workstands 2
     8.31  Frame Stiffness
     8.32  Frame materials
     8.33  Bike pulls to one side
     8.34  Frame repair
     8.35  Frame Fatigue
     8.36  Weight = Speed?
     8.37  Adjusting SPD Cleats
     8.38  Rim Tape Summary
     8.39  STI/Ergo Summary
     8.40  Roller Head Bearings
     8.41  Tubular Tire Repair
     8.42  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs
     8.43  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2
     8.44  "Sealed" Bearings
     8.45  Installing Cranks
     8.46  Stress Relieving Spokes
     8.47  Traffic detector loops
     8.48  Gluing Sew-up Tires

  9  Misc
     9.1  Books and Magazines
     9.2  Mail Order Addresses
     9.3  Road Gradient Units
     9.4  Helmets
     9.5  Terminology
     9.6  Avoiding Dogs
     9.7  Shaving Your Legs
     9.8  Contact Lenses and Cycling
     9.9  How to deal with your clothes
     9.10  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
     9.11  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
     9.12  Studded Tires
     9.13  Cycling Myths
     9.14  Descending I
     9.15  Descending II
     9.16  Trackstands
     9.17  Front Brake Usage
     9.18  Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
     9.19  Reflective Tape
     9.20  Nutrition
     9.21  Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
     9.22  Powerbars Recipe
     9.23  Calories burned by cycling
     9.24  Road Rash Cures
     9.25  Knee problems
     9.26  Cycling Psychology
     9.27  Mirrors
     9.28  Another Powerbar recipe

  10  Off-Road
     10.1  Suspension Stems

------------------------------

Subject: 3  Administrivia

------------------------------

Subject: 3.1  Abbreviations

Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:

  FAQ  Frequenly Asked Question.  What you are reading now is a file
       containing answers to some FAQs.

  IMHO  In my humble opinion.

  TIOOYK  There Is Only One You Know.  Refers to the Tour de France.

See the glossary in the ftp archives for more bicycle-related terms.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access

I've made the rec.bicycles ftp archives available via gopher, and have
split the FAQ up into individual files for easier access via gopher.

To connect to the gopher server, use the hostname draco.acs.uci.edu and
port 1071.  Please don't ask me how to use gopher or how to configure
your gopher client; I don't know how to use all the available gopher
clients, nor do I have access to them.  Please talk to your local gopher
gurus.

You can also access the archives via NCSA Mosaic, using this URL:

   <gopher://draco.acs.uci.edu:1071>

Again, please ask your local gurus for information on how to use Mosaic
clients.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.3  Archives

I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12).  This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time.  The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.

For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of items in the archives.  I really don't
have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily.
To use the ftpmail server, send an email message containing the line

help

in the body of the message to [e-mail].  You'll get
a help file back with more information on how to use the ftpmail server.

Here is an example of what to put in the body of a message to to get the
README file:

connect draco.acs.uci.edu
chdir pub/rec.bicycles
get README

                README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area

arnie.light    Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) "Ultimate bike light"

bike_gear.sea.hqx
        Lawrence Hare's ([e-mail]) copy of a
        Hypercard stack to calculate gearing.  Lawrence says
        there is a newer version on major bbs systems.

bike.lockers    David H. Wolfskill's ([e-mail]) summary of
        bike locker vendors.

bike.painting   Sam Henry's ([e-mail]) collection of articles on
        how to paint a bike.

bike_power.*    Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
        consumption.  See bike_power.doc for more info.
        updated by Mark Grennan ([e-mail])

biking_log.*    Phil Etheridge's ([e-mail]) hypercard stack
        riding diary.  It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
        average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
        and yearly totals.  See biking_log.read_me for more
                information.


CA-veh-code    A directory containing the California vehicle code sections
        that pertain to bicycles and gopher bookmarks.  See the
        README in that directory for more information.

camera.tour    Vivian Aldridge's ([e-mail]) collection of articles
        on cameras to take on a bike tour.

competitive.nutrition
        Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) article from the
        Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.

computer.calibrate
computer.install
        Sheldon Brown's ([e-mail]) universal bike computer
        calibration chart and installation suggestions.

cyclesense    Larry Watanabe's ([e-mail]) copy of
        the "Cycle Sense for Motorists" ready to run thru LaTeX.

faq.*        The current Frequently Asked Questions posting

first.century    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) tips on training
        for your first century ride.

frame.build    Terry Zmrhal's ([e-mail]) writeup of
        a frame building class he took.

gear.c        Larry Watanabe's ([e-mail]) program to
        print gear inch tables.

glossary    Alan Bloom's ([e-mail]) glossary of bicycle terms.

lab.info    Erin O'Brien's ([e-mail]) article on the
        League of American Bicyclists.

lights        Tom Reingold's ([e-mail]) collection of
        articles on bike lights.

lights2        More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.

mtb.buy        Joakim Karlsson's ([e-mail]) article on
        buying an entry-level MTB.

pam.bmb*    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) report on her
        Boston-Montreal-Boston rides.

pam.pactour*    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) writeup of her PAC tours
        across the country.

pbp.info    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) information
        on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.

pictures    Bicycling gif pictures.

prof.sched    Roland Stahl's ([e-mail]) list of
        scheduled professional races in many countries.

pwm.regulator   Willie Hunt's ([e-mail]) design notes
                on a pulse width modulated voltage regulator.  Originally
                designed for caving, this design is adaptable to bike
                lighting.  The author has parts available in kit form.

ride.index    Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's ([e-mail])
        explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the
        difficulty of different rides.

ridelg22.*    Found on AOL by Gary Thurman ([e-mail]), a
        ride diary program.  The .exe file a self-extracting archive
        for PCs.

spike.bike    Bob Fishell's ([e-mail]) Spike Bike series.
        They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
        rec.bicycles.  All the Spike Bike stories are
        "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."

spokelen11.bas    Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) spoke length
        calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.

spokelen.c    Andy Tucker's ([e-mail]) port of
        Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.

spokelen.hqx    Eric Topp's [e-mail]'s Hypercard stack that
        computes spoke lengths.

studded.tires    Nancy Piltch's ([e-mail]) compilation
        of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
        own.

tandem.boxes    Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) notes on how
        he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
        back.  It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if
        you want more information, contact him at the above
        address.

tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's ([e-mail]) list of technical
        support numbers for various manufacturers.  This list
        used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.

trailers    A summary posting of messages about bike trailers.  Good
        stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.

wheels.*.hqx    R. Scott Truesdell's ([e-mail]) Hypercard
        stack to calculate spoke lengths.  See wheels.readme
        for more info.

wintertips    Pete Hickey's ([e-mail]) notes about
        how to cycle in the winter.

wintertips.pam  Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) winter cycling tips.



Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the
directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes
([e-mail]).

Last updated: July 3rd, 1994.

File        What

READ.ME        Information about the other files in the directory.

bm106a.zip    The latest version of Bike Manager. Bike Manager is a
        shareware program that help you keep a log of your training
        activities. It can report summary reports,  weekly reports,
        monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your
        activities against your goals. And more...

brake.doc    About how to make your own brake booster.

gtos91.doc    A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.

gtos92.doc    Same, but for the 1992 trial.

gtos93.doc    For the 1993 trial.

toj93.doc    The Tour of Jotunheimen 1993 report.

faq.*        Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and
        Interesting  Information (ASCII text format).


velo.txt    Description about Velocipede (TM) for Windows.

velo*.zip    Velocipede (TM) for Windows. Velocipede is a window based
        training log program based on the ideas in Bike Manager.
        Compared to Bike Manager, Velocipede offers a better user
        interface, graphic presentation and more. For more details,
        see file velo.txt.
        Velocipede is a shareware program.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.4  Posting Guidelines

The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group.  The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there.  Most postings to rec.bicycles should
not be cross-posted to groups outside of rec.*.

There have been several postings recently advocating a MTB-only newsgroup
(with the usual "Me Too!" followups).  There are arguments both for and
against doing this;  readers who want to start a new newsgroup are
advised to look in news.announce.newusers for the periodic postings on
how to create a newsgroup instead of filling up rec.bicycles.* with
postings about it.

rec.bicycles: DO NOT USE THIS NEWSGROUP - it should have been dropped
   from news servers, having been replaced by rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
   services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
   them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
   engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
   and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
   services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.

rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
   Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
   conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
   sociopaths.

rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
   organizations.  Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
   or rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.misc:  General riding techniques, rider physiology,
   injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.

rec.bicycles.off-road: Discussion of riding on unimproved roads, gravel, dirt,
   grass, sand, single track or 4x4 roads.  Also discussion of environmental
   issues, trail issues, backcountry travel, how to handle conditions
   (technically and evo-sensitively), off-road magazines and other media.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

[e-mail]  A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.
    Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem
    componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection,
    prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section
    on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc.  For more information
        send mail to "[e-mail]" with the body of the
    message having the line "info tandem", or point your WWW client at
    <http://www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html>, or
    finger [e-mail].

BOB is the Bridgestone Owner's Bunch, and this is the internet
    edition of it.  This is a mailing list, not a newsletter, and has no
    connection with the real Bridgestone-sponsored BOB except in name and
    in spirit.  Get more information by sending mail to
    [e-mail].

HPV list  The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the
      design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles
      and closely related kin. (Hybrid  human/electric, for example.)

      For further information, send a mail message containing the
      following single line in the message, to [e-mail]:

      info hpv

BICYCLE on [e-mail]
        or [e-mail]

   The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to
   discuss all topics related to bicycles, mtn.  biking, and cycling in
   general.  This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to
   motorcycling.

   To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LISTSERV@BITNIC
   or [e-mail] in the BODY of e-mail:

      SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name

   For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe

   Owner: Chris Tanski  [e-mail]
                    or  [e-mail]


BikeMidwest

  A new regional internet discussion group has been started to discuss bicycle
  advocacy issues in the midwest area.  BikeMidwest was started to connect
  cyclists in L.A.W. Regions 6, 7, 8 and 9.  That is, the states of Ohio,
  Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,
  Iowa and Missouri.  Of course, people from outside this area are welcome
  to join.

  Subscriptions to the list are handled by a computer program called
  Majordomo.  To subscribe, send a message with the following command in the
  body of the message to [e-mail]:

  subscribe BikeMidwest


 Bicycle BBS

 BicycleBBS offers free access to cyclists.  The # is 619-720-1830.
 The BBS is run by Neil Goren, [e-mail].

 BicycleBBS also has a mailing list.  Anyone can join by sending e-mail to:

 [e-mail] and put "JOIN" in the text body anywhere.

------------------------------

Subject: 4  Rides

------------------------------

Subject: 4.1  Maps
From: Jim Carson <[e-mail]>
Updated-From: Joel Spolsky <[e-mail]>

Adventure Cycling Association maps are not free, but you can get them
without joining.  To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call
[phone] (24 hr).  Maps are currently (Feb 1995) $8.95 each to
"non-members," $5.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for
sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for
surface shipping and handling.

Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km.  Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary.  I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major
changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're
printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar
bag map case.

As of Feb '95, there are three transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast
(N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and a middle route and numerous
routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada.

Membership is $25 individual; $35 family; $19 for students/seniors.
Lifetime is $475; $650 for couples.

Members get copies of Adventure Cycling Association's magazine, Adventure
Cyclist, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by Adventure
Cycling Association, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_.  _The
Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on
touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and
touring all over the world.  (For example, they have an arrangement with
The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase
full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.)

Adventure Cycling Association's address and phone:

    Adventure Cycling Association
    [phone], fax [phone]
    PO Box 8308
    Missoula, MT 59807-8308

------------------------------

Subject: 4.2  Touring supplies
From: Scott "gaspo" Gasparian <[e-mail]>

    Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week).  I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).

Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...


FOOD:
    Here, just whatever you normally consume.  If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour.  This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.

CLOTHING:
    Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts.  However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear.  Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
    A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended.  A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear.  If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.

FIRST-AID:
    Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists.  Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...

TOILETRIES:
    I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant.  That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff.  A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.

MISC:
    I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category.  Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps.  A piece of
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain.  Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.


TOOLS:
    Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from
civilization" range.  This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.

Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo.  If
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to
bring.  Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call.  I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger
one that actually removes the entire caliper.

    pump
    pressure gauge
    flat kit
    wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
    hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
    chain tool
    chain links
    tire levers (plastic)
    spoke wrench
    safety wire
    duct tape
    zip ties

SPARES:
    Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories.
For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks
is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a
velo-shop/store that might have a replacement.  Then again, one little
nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if
your velos measurements are non-standard.  If you have a hard-time
finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring
one with you.

    inner tubes
    tire-boots
    brake shoes
    light bulbs
    spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
    nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
    tire (if you're _really_ out there)
    toe-clip strap
    shoe-laces
    cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
    cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)

NIFTY IDEAS:
    Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both
humorous and usefull....

[e-mail] (Mike Johnston)
    A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands
    during rear wheel flats)

[e-mail] (Steve Kromer)
    The most important article to take along on a long ride
    seems to be faith.

[e-mail] (chris rouch)
    15cm of old tyre

Robyn Stewart <[e-mail]>
    Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.

[e-mail]
    bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that
    set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the
    back of your bike.

[e-mail] (Catherine Anne Foulston)
    ZAP Sport Towel.  I think it is really useful because you can
    get it wet and it still dries you.

------------------------------

Subject: 4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
From: Carlos Martin <[e-mail]>

The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike
as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992.  It is intended to
offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not
intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak.  For reference,
I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.

Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few
precautions.  Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage.
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.)
There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box.  Call
the station several days before your trip and notify them that you
will need a bicycle box.

The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise.  You will, however,
have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars
to fit the bike in the box.  Plan on putting only the bike in the box -
no helmet or panniers.  (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff
in the box.)

Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem
enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station.
Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure
time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before
departure (they may tell you one hour).  Don't forget to keep your
tools handy.

At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape
from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and
the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem.  Hold the front
wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the
top tube.  Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends.
If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in
ten minutes.  Now go have lunch before you get on the train
unless you want to take your chances with train food.

BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if
you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches.
I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation.
(The usual disclaimer applies:  I have no connection to Amtrak,
other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user
of the rail system.)

------------------------------

Subject: 4.4  Warm Showers List
From: Terry Zmrhal <[e-mail]>

The Warm Showers List is a list of Internet Cyclists who have offered
their hospitality towards touring cyclists.  The extent of the
hospitality depends on the host and may range from simply a spot to
pitch a tent to meals, a warm (hot!) shower, and a bed.

If you wish to obtain the list, please email me at [e-mail].
The actual Warm Showers list is not posted since it contains
personal information (addresses, phone numbers, etc.).

If you wish to be included on the Internet Warm Showers list, please
answer the questions below my signature in return mail to me. I have also
included in parenthesis a reason or two for the inclusion of each item
based on my experiences two summers ago.  Once I have received your
information, I will add it to the list and then you will receive the
complete list also.

Thanks to All
Terry Zmrhal
[e-mail]
'The Horizon is but a line to be crossed, not a limit to be reached.'

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Name:
(Who are you?)

Email Address:
(For pre-trip communication.)

Non-Email Contact (Address, Phone, and/or Work Phone):
(For communication once someone is traveling.)

Nearest largest city (>50,000 people) (and state):
(It's much easier to find a large city on a map than a small one, and
some small ones aren=92t even on some maps!)

Direction and Distance from above city:
(Some cities are very large and getting through or around a city can be
very difficult.)

Will provide-
Lawnspace (for tent or sleeping bag)?  Floorspace (for sleeping bag)?
Bed (Wow!)?
(Cyclists' gotta sleep.)

Food? (or distance to nearest grocery store or restaurant - if known)
(Cyclists' gotta eat.  You can provide as much, or as little, as you
want.)

Shower? (or distance to nearest motel - if known)
(It can be a real boost to know shower is waiting at the end of the
day?)

Availability:
(If only available some months, please indicate this, otherwise 'year-
round'.)

Cost to Cyclist, if any:
(Do you wish any money for your hospitality?  How much? (please, no more
than $5-$10))

Preferred Notice:
(Do you require advance notice?  If so, how many days (weeks) notice?)

Maximum Number of Cyclists:
(You don't want a major tour coming through :-)

Storage:
(Is there a safe place to store bikes?  If so, Storage for how many
bikes?)

Nearest Motel:
(Distance, Cost - if known)
(In case a host isn't home, for an emergency, etc.)

Nearest Bike Shop:
(Name, Phone, Distance, Reputation - if known)
(In case bike repairs are needed - good to know where good shops are.)

Any additional comments you would like each interested person to know
before contacting you?

------------------------------

Subject: 5  Racing

------------------------------

Subject: 5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
From: Chris Murphy <[e-mail]>

Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:

YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF
       started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto
       (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing.

POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points
         scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain
         stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the
         difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933.

GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points
      given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.

YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the
       the team's top 3 riders.

In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears
the category jersey.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
From: Tim Smith <[e-mail]>

[Ed note:  I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]

Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:

    Tour de France        Giro d'Italia        Vuelta d'Espana
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1947    Jean Robic (F)        Fausto Coppi (I)    E. van Dyck (B)
1948    Gino Bartali (I)    F. Magni (I)        B. Ruiz (E)
1949    Fausto Coppi (I)    F. Coppi        (not held)
1950    Ferdi Kubler (CH)    Hugo Koblet (CH)    E. Rodriguez (E)
1951    Hugo Koblet (CH)    F. Magni        (nh)
1952    Fausto Coppi        F. Coppi        (nh)
1953    Louison Bobet (F)    F. Coppi        (nh)
1954    Louison Bobet        C. Clerici (CH)        (nh)
1955    Louison Bobet        F. Magni        J. Dotto (F)
1956    Roger Walkowiak (F)    Charly Gaul (L)        A. Conterno (I)
1957    Jacques Anquetil (F)    Gastone Nencini (I)    J. Lorono (E)
1958    Charly Gaul (L)        E. Baldini (I)        Jean Stablinski (F)
1959    Federico Bahamontes (E)    Charly Gaul        A. Suarez (E)
1960    Gastone Nencini (I)    Jacques Anquetil (F)    F. de Mulder (B)
1961    Jacques Anquetil    A. Pambianco (I)    A. Soler (E)
1962    Jacques Anquetil    F. Balmamion (I)    Rudy Altig (D)
1963    Jacques Anquetil    F. Balmamion        J. Anquetil (F)
1964    Jacques Anquetil    Jacques Anquetil    Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965    Felice Gimondi (I)    V. Adorni (I)        R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966    Lucien Aimar (F)    Gianni Motta (I)    F. Gabica (E)
1967    Roger Pingeon (F)    Felice Gimondi (I)    J. Janssen (NDL)
1968    Jan Janssen (NDL)    Eddy Merckx (B)        Felice Gimondi (I)
1969    Eddy Merckx (B)        Felice Gimondi        Roger Pingeon (F)
1970    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        Luis Ocana (E)
1971    Eddy Merckx        Gosta Petersson (S)    F. Bracke (B)
1972    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        J-M Fuente (E)
1973    Luis Ocana (E)        Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx (B)
1974    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        J-M Fuente
1975    Bernard Thevenet (F)    F. Bertoglio (I)    Tamames (E)
1976    Lucien van Impe (B)    Felice Gimondi        J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977    Bernard Thevenet    Michel Pollentier (B)    Freddy Maertens (B)
1978    Bernard Hinault (F)    J. de Muynck (B)    Bernard Hinault (F)
1979    Bernard Hinault        Giuseppe Saronni (I)    Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980    Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)    Bernard Hinault (F)    F. Ruperez (E)
1981    Bernard Hinault        Giovanni Battaglin (I)    Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982    Bernard Hinault        Bernard Hinault        Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983    Laurent Fignon (F)    Giuseppe Saronni (I)    Bernard Hinault (F)
1984    Laurent Fignon        Francesco Moser (I)    Eric Caritoux (F)
1985    Bernard Hinault        Bernard Hinault        Pedro Delgado (E)
1986    Greg Lemond (USA)    Roberto Visentini (I)    Alvaro Pino (E)
1987    Stephen Roche (EIR)    Stephen Roche (EIR)    Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988    Pedro Delgado (E)    Andy Hampsten (USA)    Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989    Greg Lemond (USA)    Laurent Fignon (F)    Pedro Delgado (E)
1990    Greg Lemond (USA)    Guanni Bugno (I)    Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991    Miguel Indurain (E)    Franco Chioccioli (I)    Melchior Mauri (E)
1992    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1993    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indirain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1994    Miguel Indurain (E)

The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.

Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
        1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
    1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.

One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were
big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)

There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949.
In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <[e-mail]>

One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK).
The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of
the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage.

It is important to note several things before this discussion begins.
First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their
classifications of climbs.  The north side of the Col de la Madeleine
has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb,
even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every
year.

Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised
its ugly head here.  Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now
Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same
position in a stage year after year.

Let's talk about the ratings.  I will give you my impressions
on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on
having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European
tours.

Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades.  It has been my
observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get
rated.  Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.

Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).

Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).

Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)

Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)

Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)

Steepness also plays a factor in the rating.  Most of the big climbs
in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average
8-9%.

Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and
that there are exceptions to every rule.  For example, L'Alpe D'Huez
climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb.  This is because
it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself
is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards.

More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside
of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains.  I have seen it rated anywhere from
a Category 3 to a Category 1!!!  This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage.  The Category 3  rating came when it was near
the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was
near the end.

Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating.  Such
sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty
of the climb considerably.  This may be one of the reasons that
the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/
flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating.

I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in
Europe.  Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by
European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2,
or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%)
so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up
most likely a Category 2 or 3.

Fear not, there are exceptions.  Most notable to Californains is
the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs
4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent.

A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to
Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of
two offending downhill section on the ascent.

For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long,
but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles).  I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23
on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude.  Gear ratios of
39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very
telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs.

One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft.
climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads.  Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction.  This makes it difficult
to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.

One last note.  I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of
climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals.
I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now.  It
is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how
fast the pros climb the big passes.  Pace makes all the difference.
Riding a climb is very different than racing it.

Bruce

------------------------------

Subject: 6  Social

------------------------------

Subject: 6.1  Bicycling in America
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

(or How to survive on a bicycle)

In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for
adults.  It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who
are not old enough to drive cars).  Adults who sense that they are
violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as
the pursuit of physical fitness.  They refer to their bicycling as
training rides.  Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling"
but rather "we were on a training ride".  Certainly most of these
people never race although one might assume, by implication, that
their other rides are races.  Some also refer to themselves as serious
cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of
pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof
that they are not engaged in child's play.

In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper
activity for all ages.  That is to say, motorists do not treat
bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to
justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever
reason.  In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable
function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for
the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on
"training rides".

With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads
in the presence of automobile traffic.  "Get the f#%k off the road!"
and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are
equipped with bike racks.  It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing
public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior.
The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not
wearing a helmet.  Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting
description.

Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction
with ones life.  Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least
more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch.
Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have
gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't
stand people who are having fun".  So these youths attack others and
beat them bloody.  In a manner that may not make sense to others, they
bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity.

There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards.  You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or
falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover.  There are enough
hazards without the threat of being run down by a car.  However, the
whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult
bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly
endeavor.

The scenario:

In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that
guy on the bicycle?  That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing
within inches of the cyclist.  The passenger is truly impressed with
the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.

I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I
know what is going on.

Examples:

o  The buzz and swerve routine:

A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing
traffic.  Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how
far he went out of his way for the cyclist.  The desired path was even
nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point.  The buzz and
swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously.

o  Center court, extra point:

The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly
centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires
passing within inches of a cyclist.  It appears that the driver is
awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and
extra points for proximity.  In the event of a collision it is, of
course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly.  The precision with
which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes
the center court game conspicuous.  People generally don't drive
exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle.

o  Honk and slice:

The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking
a single one second blast.  This is usually done at a far greater
distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best.
This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with
the cyclist.  "But I warned him!"

o  The trajectory intercept:

A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right
angles.  The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection
but at different speeds.  With skill, the driver of the car can slow
down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely
the same time as the cyclist.  The bicyclist who has a stop sign may
now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only
looking out for the cyclist's safety.  If the cyclist doesn't stop,
the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law.

Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist,
in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.

o  The contrived hindrance:

A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the
passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or
until the following cars begin to honk.  Then, regardless of
visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after
which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it
was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision.

o The rear-ender:

While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car
that notices his rapid approach.  If an oncoming car approaches the
driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams
on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go.  Bicycles
cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front
wheels but bicycles can't.  This game is the more dangerous variation
of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as
slowly as possible everywhere else.

One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that
riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was
scary.  This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a
thing or two.  Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in
the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical
ability.  It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson.  There
is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle
behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault.

So why does all this go on and on?

It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just
frustrated drivers.  They may still be getting even for some bicycle
accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any
easier.  Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel
while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles.  I
believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though
they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like
to see others have it any better.  Many drivers believe that the only
part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road
shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too.

A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude.  Some people use bike racks to transport family
bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing
onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars.  Among these
people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling.  They
take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while
playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they
do, and not get in the way of cars.

What to do?  Don't fuel the flames.  Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out.  Take legal action where appropriate (and possible).
Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined
superiority to people who sit in cars.  Don't balance on your bike or
ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light.  Don't make
moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but
legal.  If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it!  That guy in
the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars
and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say
hello.  Give him room.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.2  League of American Bicyclists
From: Erin O'Brien <[e-mail]>

The League of American Bicyclists, (founded as the League of American
Wheelmen) has been working to improve the quality of bicycling in America
almost as long as there have been bicycles.

In the 1870s the forefathers of bicycling banded together to lobby the
government for more paved roads and to put a stop to antagonistic acts from
other road-users.  United in 1880 as the League of American Bicyclists, their
mission has carried on throughout the history of bicycling.

Fashioned after "The Good Roads Movement" of the 1880's, our current agenda
is embodied by the L.A.W. Safe Roads Movement, a comprehensive program that
aims to reduce the number of injuries and deaths to cyclists.  Highlights
of this 10-pointaction plan include educating bicyclists and other road
users about thei rights and responsibilities to safely share the road, and
promoting the improvement of road design and maintenance to better
accommodate bicycles.

The League's Effective Cycling program is making great strides to advance
this agenda.  Taught by certified instructors, it is the only national
bicycling education program that combines the technical training needed to
safely negotiate any traffic situation, with the principles of safe,
responsible riding.

L.A.W. sponsors National Bike Month (May), which serves to promote the
various aspects of bicycling.  In 1992, L.A.W. founded The International
Police Mountain Bike Association (IPMBA) to address the growing need for
information, assistance, and training to start-up bicycle-mounted police
patrols.

L.A.W. played an instrumental role in the passage of the Intermodal Surface
Transportation Equity Act of 1991 (ISTEA), federal legislation allowing
both for increased spending on bicycling improvements and for bicyclists to
participate in local transportation planning.  L.A.W. also publishes the
bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin, which provides the most
comprehensive, bicycle advocacy and planning information and advice
available in the nation.

In between advocacy and education efforts, L.A.W. manages to find time to
enjoy bicycling.  L.A.W.'s national and regional rallies bring together
members from all over the U.S.A. and Canada for great riding and
entertainment, daily workshops include, advocacy, safety, club leadership,
cycling techniques, and more.

Pedal for Power, another division of L.A.W., hosts Across America and
North-Southa rides that raise money for bicycling and various charities of
the rider's choice.

Eight issues per year of Bicycle USA magazine to keep members up to date on
League activities.  Regular features include effective cycling tips,
Government Relations and Education columns, cycle news, and an event
calendar.  Special issues include an annual Almanac and Tourfinder.  L.A.W.
offers national touring services to members including Ride Information
Contacts in every state.  While touring, members can also stay in the homes
of more than 600 fellow members, free of charge, through the Hospitality
Homes network.

League members can fly their bikes for free on TWA, America West, USAir,
Continental, and Northwest airlines when they make their travel
arrangements through the Sports National Reservation Center.

L.A.W. is a 501c-3 non-profit organization with membership of more than
24,000 bicyclists and 500 affiliated clubs and coalitions nationwide.
Individual membership costs $25/year or $30 for families.  Advocacy
membership, which includes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin costs
an additional $10/year.

To join the League of American Bicyclists send your membership contribution
to 190 W. Ostend St., Suite 120, Baltimore, MD 21230-3755, or call (410)
539-3399.  For membership by phone call 1-800-288-BIKE.  For a membership
form to pay by credit card see the "How to Join League" file.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.3  Rules for trail riding
From: Roland L. Behunin <[e-mail]>

The Salt Lake Ranger District of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest has
some guidelines for trail riding in their district.  Here they are:

1. Yield the right of way to other non-motorized recreationists.
People judge all cyclists by your actions.  Move off the trail to
allow horse to pass and stop to allow hikers adequate room to share
the trail.

2. Slow down and use caution when approaching another and make your
presence known well in advance.  Simply yelling bicycle is not
acceptable.

3. Maintain control of your speed at all times and approach turns
anticipation of someone around the bend. Be able to stop safely within
the distance you can see down the trail.

4. Stay on designated trails to avoid trampling native vegetation, and
minimize potential erosion by not using wet or muddy trails or
shortcutting switchbacks.  Avoid wheel lockup.  If a trail is steep
enough to require locking wheels and skidding, dismount and walk your
bike.  Locking brakes contributes to needless trail damage.  Do not
ride cross-country.  Water bars are placed across to direct water off
the trail and prevent erosion.  Ride directly over the top, or
dismount and walk your bike.

5. Do not disturb wildlife or livestock.

6. Do not litter.  Pack out what you pack in and carry out more than
your share whenever possible.

7.  Respect public and private property, including trail use signs, no
trespassing signs, and leave gates as you found them.  If your route
crosses private property, it is your responsibility to obtain
permission from the landowner.  Bicycles are excluded from designated
Wilderness Areas.

8.  Always be self sufficient.  Your destination and travel speed will
be determined by your ability, your equipment, the terrain, and the
present and potential weather conditions.

9.  Do not travel solo in remote areas.  Leave word of your destination
and when you plan to return.

10.  Observe the practice of minimum impact bicycling.  "Take only
pictures and leave only waffle prints."

11.  Always wear a helmet.

12.  If you abuse it-you lose it!.  Since mountain bikers are
newcomers to the forests, they must prove to be responsible trail
users.

From personal experience, you may also want to add the following
information:


13.  In National Parks and National Monuments bicycles are considered
vehicles and restricted to roads.


14.  On BLM land - ride only on roadways, trails, and slickrock.  The
desert crust (microbiotic crust) is fragile and takes up to 50 years
to recover from footprints, waffle tracks, etc.

15.  When camping out of improved campsites camp at least 500 feet
off the road or trail.  Try to leave no trace of your campsite.

16.  Toilets in unimproved areas - move off trail, and dig a 1 foot
deep pit, cover after use.

------------------------------

Subject: 7  Marketplace

------------------------------

Subject: 7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
From: Jim Siler <[e-mail]>

: Are people really willing to pay 10% less for a "nearly new" MTB when
: they
:      a) often have no assurance that it really hasn't been used
:         (except of course someone's word)

:      b) may have to buy, unseen.

:      c) may not get a transferable waranty on the MTB

I think that in general, many people are acutely aware of what they
spent for a thing and are woefully unaware of how much value that thing
lost when they walked out of the store.  Let's assume for a moment
that I buy an XTR rear derailleur in my local shop (good practice,
worth some added cost) for $100.  I use it for a week, and trash my
frame and want to part it out.  Hmmm... this was $100 new and its only
a week old, virtually new.  Let's ask $90 o.b.o. and see what happens.

Now I change roles and become the buyer.

I go to my local bike shop, where I trust the owner and am willing
to pay a premium, but no XTR rear derailleur.  Next stop mail order.
Everyone but everyone has it for $80, plus shipping, but less tax.
They will take a credit card.  The unit is warrantied, in the box,
with instructions (the value of which should not be underesimated).

Given this I am unlikeley to even consider the used part.  But let's
suppose I offer $75, and send off my money order, sight unseen.
What can happen?

1 --    It never arrives.  After a number of hassles and excuses I
    realize that there is a major problem.  Email stops being
    returned.  I contact his sysadm, who can't do much.  I
    publicly flame him, starting one more interminable flame
    war.  Eventually I either get my $75 bucks back or not.
    Even if I get the derailleur (remeber, the original
    object was the derailleur) I have bought myself
    hundreds of dollars worth of aggravation.

2 --    It arrives and looks like hell.  C'est la vie.

3 --    I arrives and one week later it is obvious that something
    is seriously wrong.  No amount of adjustment will cause
    it to shift reliably for any length of time.  See 2, above.

4 --    While waiting for arrival i trash MY frame.  Derailleur
    arrives.  Sadly, I have nothing to hang it on.  See 2,
    above.

Let's run through the same scenarios having purchased through mail
order, using a credit card.

1 --    I don't pay.  If they get pissy about it I do too.  As most
    mail order houses have, at best,  a fragile relationship
    with Mastecard/Visa (it is VERY difficult to open a merchant
    account to accept credit cards over the phone for mail order,
    so difficult that many use their in store accounts, faking
    signatures) and are dependent on that relationship to stay
    in business, they tend to become most reasonable when you
    make real noise with the credit card company.

2 --    Unlikely, as goods should be new.  See 1, above.

3 --    Warranty problem.  If you have a good local dealer, you
    would have been better off there.  If you have a so-so
    dealer you may well be better off through mail order.
    Worse comes to worst, see 1, above.

4 --    Worst case, you eat a restocking fee.

In general, I would be hesitant to buy anything here for much more
than 60% of its mail order price, unless the product is exactly
what I want and all else is right.

I have bought two things this year through this group, a GT Zaskar LE
frame, new in the box with slight cosmetic ding for $350 (negotiated
from $375) and a Flashlite 2 tent with a tiny hole, professionally
repaired, for $100.  Both carried resonable prices in the original
post, offered to pay the shipping, and clearly spelled out the
possible problems with the product for sale.  Both sales were
satisfactory to all involved, and I am delighted with both.

I have seen many other Items for sale that I have wanted and bought
elsewhere because the posted prices were so ridiculous that I
had no basis for negotiation.  Typically, these are reposted with
sad wonderings as to why no one has responded.  C'est la vie.

In general, I think that anyone wanting to move something quickly
through posting should do the following:

    Be realistic with price.  Look at the true market value of
    your goods.  It is not what you paid.  You are going to take
    a loss.  If your fork, which was the hottest thing in July
    of this year, cost you $600 in a store is not any better
    than the new $375 fork that is available in December, its
    market value is certainly no more than $375, if it is new.
    Unless limited availability takes it out of the commodity
    realm (e.g., my Zaskar frame with blemish had only limited
    availibility) knock off 40% of the realistic market value.
    Our fork is now down to $225.  If this makes you too
    queasy, up it a bit and throw in shipping, say $275 with
    U.P.S. ground shipping, hmmm... not too bad.

    Clearly state everything of importance to the buyer, good
    and bad.  This will avoid later hassles, and greatly increase
    your trust factor.

    Don't initially offer at an inflated price, thinking to
    negotiate down (remember back to Onza Clipless Pedals for
    sale flame war).  It just makes it clear to an intellegent
    buyer that you are hoping to find a sucker, and will take
    whatever advantage you can.  This may not be true, but it
    will be clear, nonetheless.  Trust factor goes down the
    toilet.

    Make phone contact as soon as possible.  A human voice is
    often more comforting than an email address.

To anyoune who has read this far, thanks for putting up with my
rambling and opining.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.2  Bike Trailers

[Ed note:  The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so
if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.3  One Less Car T-Shirts
From: Alayne McGregor <[e-mail]>
                       (Ed Ravin  panix![e-mail])

The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York
City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo
on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back.  Call TA for colors and
sizes currently in stock.  They're US$15 each.  No refunds or
exchanges.  Allow 6 weeks for delivery.  For people who have to
drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the
Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5.

Send orders to:

Transportation Alternatives
92 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
USA
attn: One Less Car

I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots
of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing
our shirts.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.4  Panniers and Racks
From: Sharon Pedersen <[e-mail]>

This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider
racks, loading and generators.    --Sharon   [e-mail]

                 --PANNIERS--
Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart.  Commuting to
school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making
sturdiness as important here as for touring.

Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well.

Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use
of space.  You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets.
One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty.

Fastening--lots of options:  bungees and hooks, or fixed placement
hooks, or straps with buckles or cams.  Bungees and hooks have been
just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will
want more security.  However, don't get a system with so many
attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off.

Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with
telegraphic comments made in 1988.  Check local stores since features
may have changed since then.
  Eclipse--(no comment);  Kirtland--tourers like them;
  MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in
    Santa Rosa, CA, [phone];
  Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than
    average cost" yeah!  (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials);
  Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment;  Rhode Gear--expensive;
  Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment.

             --LOW-RIDER RACKS--
  Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager.  The
Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with
clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them
apart to take the front wheel off.

                --REAR RACKS--
  (No comment in the original article;  Blackburns seem to be the
standard and durable enough.)

                 --LOADING--
  Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft.
Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket.  Rider, bike
and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel;
remainder on front.  Bike with front low-riders is quite stable.

                --GENERATORS--
  The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers.
Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and
it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards."  Or go with a
generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of
putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire.


------------------------------

Subject: 7.5  Clothing materials
From: Jim Carson <[e-mail]>

[Ed note: From a summary Jim posted]

Polarlite
  Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla.  Comfortable.
  Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind.
  Doesn't wick moisture out very well.  Breathes very well.

Supplex (nylon)
  Comfortable.  It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof).
  Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched

Merino (wool)
  From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing
  a heavy fleece of exceptional quality."  I guess you could treat this as
  normal 100% wool.

Thermax
  An improvement on Polypro.  The big advantage is heat resistance so
  you can put it in the dryer.  Balance that against the extra cost.

CoolMax
  This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking
  material it is advertised as.

Dacron
  Trademark name for Dupont polyester.  Woven fabric made from dacron is
  similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy.  Many of the
  better clothing insulations are made from dacron.  They are usually refered
  to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard,
  and dacron-88.

Lycra
  Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing.

GoreTex
  A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes.  Gortex's claim to
  fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but
  not liquid water (rain).  It blocks wind fairly well too.  The
  membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of
  other material.  It does not breathe enough.  There are less expensive
  alternatives.

Polypropylene
  Does not wick very well.  Can be uncomfortable.  Troublesome to
  care for (e.g. can pill badly)  Will keep you fairly warm if soaked.
  Not very wind resistant.  Melts in the dryer.

Capilene
  Wicks moisture away.  Very comfortable.  Comes in different weights
  for more/less warmth.  [lots of favorable things about it... only
  really unfavorable thing is the co$t]

60/40 cloth -
  This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in
  the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came
  along, and is considerably less expensive.  Good wind resistance,
  fairly breathable.  Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray
  it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain.

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part2

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.6  Seats

Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons.  There are several
types of seats:

Leather
  Seats like the Brooks models.  Usually used by hard-core riders.  Requires
  breaking in before it's really comfortable.

Padded
  The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic".  Has padding
  where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest.

Gel
  Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them
  for additional padding.  Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift,
  making the seat uncomfortable.

There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder,
etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable.

If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers)
you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on
seat adjustment).  Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in
the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's).  Most pain
can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat,
and riding so your body becomes used to it.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.7  Women's Saddles
From: Pamela Blalock <[e-mail]>

Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find
a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I end up talking
with other women about saddles.  This article comes from those
discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle preferences. This
is a dynamic article and changes on occassion, so if you have comments
please contact me ([e-mail]) and I will incorporate your
comments.

While this is intended to be an article on women's saddles, since so
many other things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will
also address some of these issues as well.

Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each
other.  Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all
poured, what works for one woman may not work for another.

First, be sure that your bike fits properly.  Many women end up with
overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of
with a bike that fits properly. No saddle will be comfortable if the
bike is too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find
someone who knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get
the bike set up properly before making other changes. In addition to
being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also handle
better than one that is improperly sized. It isn't always easy to find
someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that will,
give them lots of business and send your friends there! Go to shops
during non-prime hours for the best service. You won't get a salesman
to spend an hour letting you try different saddles on a Saturday
afternoon, but you might on a Tuesday morning.

Most production bikes are built proportionally for the average MAN.
Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube
may leave you a bike with a top tube that is too long, since most
women have proportinally longer legs and shorter torsoes.
Surprisingly, this can cause saddle pain. It is not necessary to run
out and buy a new bike right away if the top tube on your current bike
is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this bike may give you a more
comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40 mm, are available,
but may have to be specially ordered.

Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers
generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for
everybody, especially women. It is important to RIDE your bike and
make adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an
infinitely adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben
Serotta to help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta
or not. Adjustable stems are available to help you and the shop pick a
perfect length stem the first time. Unless your current bike is a
really, really poor fit, you should be able to make a few relatively
inexpensive changes to improve the fit.  Then when upgrading or buying
a new bike, use what you have learned to buy a bike that fits better.

Several manufacturers have started building bikes proportionally sized
for women to specifically address our needs.  For petite women, these
bikes may have a smaller front wheel to get the shorter top tube, but
not all women's bikes have a 24" front wheel.  Some have two 26" or
700C wheels, depending on size and geometry. A sloping top tube is now
being used by many manufacturers to achieve a shorter effective top
tube without going to smaller wheels. In addition to a shorter top
tube, women's bikes may also have smaller brake levers, narrower
handlebars, shorter cranks and wider saddles.  Georgena Terry was the
pioneer in this area, but many other manufacturers now build women's
bikes. They may cost a little more than a comparably equipped man's
bike, due to higher production costs for fewer number of parts.  But,
I believe that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit bike will
pay off in the long run, since you will either stop riding an
uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace
the poorly fitting parts at additional cost. You don't have to buy a
women's bike though. Taller women may select a frame with a little
shorter seat tube, and therefore a proportinally shorter top tube.
(This obviously won't work if you are already on the smallest size
frame!) Of course, as I said earlier, we are all different and some
women may not need any special adjustments made to their non-custom
off-the-shelf bikes. But they are the lucky few!

And I would be completely negligent if I didn't mention that one
respondent said that recumbents almost always solve the uncomfortable
saddle problem.  (Thanks to David Wittenberg for pointing this out.
His wife won't ride anything else.)

Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than
a man's.  (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!)  Every
woman is different, and there are many women out there with narrower
hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb.
Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will be able to
feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike
saddle. Avocet used to (and maybe still does) run a great ad showing a
hip bone sitting on a saddle.  With a saddle that's too narrow, a
woman may find herself effectively straddling it with her hip bones,
or slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which may eventually
cause the legs or feet to go numb. A saddle that's too wide will also
cause problems.

A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that
comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones.
I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel
indicating exactly where my bones are. Actually, looking at your old
saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do not need support!
It's important to try out several different saddles to find one that
fits.  Unfortunately no one manufacturer makes different sized women's
saddles - but the widths do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer -
so for example, if the Terry is too wide or too narrow, try the Vetta
or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local dealer to let you put
your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on and riding a few
of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a good shop
should be willing to let you try this. (But not on a busy Saturday
afternoon!)

There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are
made with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these
with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of
sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every
10,000 miles). Brooks also has a women's leather saddle, which some
women swear by. I swear at them, but that's me! (And there are women
who swear at the saddles I swear by!)

Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of
their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft
tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method. One
rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely adjustable
angles, like the American Classic or Control Tech, will help one to
find the perfect angle. With the rachet type adjustment of most, she
was never able to get the angle quite right. One problem with having
the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may end up with two much
weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is numb hands and
pain in the lower back.

In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a
cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where
the labia would normally rest.  This would place the weight on the sit
bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it
does not. A couple of women used this idea and modified saddle pads in
this way. I watched a Spenco pad slowly get modified in this way each
day throughout PAC Tour this year. One survey respondent cut up a
neoprene pad and put it under the covering of her Flite saddle.

There are two women's saddles which specifically address this issue,
the Terry Sport and the Miyata Pavea. Both are shorter and wider
than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole in the nose to
suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level.
The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an
open-cell low-density foam. I understand there is a saddle available
now that is split up the middle and hinged in the front, so you can
adjust it for your desired width. I'll update the article as soon as I
can get my butt on one! But I did hear from a friend of a friend that
had one and really liked it.

I have used both the Terry and the Miyata. (These were the two most
popular saddles in the survey.) I've received lots of positive
comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these
saddles.  The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride
later in the evening :) :) :)

Last year I did a 750 mile ride on the back of a tandem in less than 4
days.  That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for
over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But
400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole.
Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became unbearable.
Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there was still
something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find the Miyata
saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's products, and I was
almost shocked when he showed up 20 miles later with this wonderful
saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the Miyata. The difference
was immediately noticeable. I probably would have finished the ride
without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The
Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but
that's not where I was experiencing pain.  Of course the saddle is
different looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendos, but
it saved my ride. A year and 12,000 miles later, including PAC Tour
(24 days straight, 140 miles average a day), I still love my Miyata
and won't ride anything else.

Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's
saddles too wide.  Several women responded to the survey saying they
prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip
bones.  For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat
on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems.  Others who
liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the
middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Someday, maybe
we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the
demand though.

Terry does makes a men's version of their Sport saddle. It is narrower
and has a longer nose and hole than the women's model. It also doesn't
say Terry on it anywhere. Instead it is marketed under the initials
TFI. Both this saddle and new models of the Sport have a (politically
correct) simulated leather covering. I know of several men who really
like this saddle, especially when using aero-bars. Women who find the
Terry Sport too wide may want to check this one out.

I've seen Terry saddles change a bit over the past couple of years.
One change is from a lycra cover to a simulated leather cover. Some
women didn't like the feel of the lycra.  (I do.) Another women
noticed after replacing a stolen one with a new one that the foam in
the hole seems to be getting firmer, kind of negating the benefit of
the hole.  Terry does offer a 30 day money back guarantee on their
products, so you can *painlessly* decide if you'd like a Terry saddle
or not.

They have also produced a couple of racing saddles. The first was the
same width in the back as their Sport model, but narrower through the
middle and had titanium rails. I was one of the lucky few to get one
of these. They replaced it with a Flite lookalike with holes drilled
in the nose. I tried one of these and must say for me it was the most
uncomfortable thing I ever came into contact with. But if you can
tolerate a Flite, it might work for you.

Speaking of which, many women do LIKE Flite and other really narrow
saddles. I know that at their cycling camps, Betsy King and Anna
Schwartz get many women on them. They stress the flexibility of the
saddle with it's titanium rails and thin shell. They are very good for
mountain biking where you want to slide off the back of the saddle for
balance where a wide saddle would get in the way. I even know of a few
women who use them for distance cycling. Two women used them on the
PAC Tour I was on, but they had very narrow set hip bones. The other
15 women had women's models of one type or another, including Terry,
Brooks and of course I had a Miyata.

Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort included trying
different shorts. There are a lot of different shorts out there - far
more than saddles and just like saddles, they all fit differently.
The common theme from most women was to stay away from shorts with
seams in the center. This includes seams in the lycra as well as the
chamois (good luck!). On multiday rides, you may want to use different
brands of shorts, since having the seam in the same place day after
day may also cause irritation. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause
also discomfort.

Pearl Izumi and Urbanek make very nice women's shorts. And of course
Terry produces women's shorts. Some have fuller hips, longer legs,
wider elastic leg grippers, etc. I really prefer bib or one piece
suits, since there is no binding elastic at the waist. These are less
convenient for quick bathroom stops, but I prefer the added comfort.
Some women like longer legs, some shorter. Some prefer thick chamois,
some fake, some real. Try on as many different types as you can,
until you find one that fits you the best. Women are even more varied
on their opinions about shorts than on saddles, so just keep trying
new ones until you find the perfect pair for you.

(And while on the subject of saddle comfort, I use a combination of
Desitin (or some other diaper rash ointment) and powder sprinkled
liberally in my shorts to keep myself dry and rash-free.)

I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle
is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or
your friend, or this author uses a particular type of saddle doesn't
mean that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into
riding something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your
saddle because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable
for you.

Among the saddles recommended by respondents were
Terry Women's (most popular of the survey)
Miyata Pavea (my favorite and a close second in the survey)
TFI (men's version of the Terry Sport)
women's Selle Italia Turbo
Avocet O2 (said to be as comfy as the above Turbo, but lighter)
WaveFlo
Avocet Women's Racing saddle
Viscount saddle
San Marco Regal
Brooks B-17
Brooks Pro
Flite
Terry Racing (like a Flite with holes drilled in the plastic)

(Of course some women swear at saddles that others swear by! Did I
mention that we are all DIFFERENT?)

Specialty women's products are available through The Womyn's Wheel,
1-800-795-RIDE, or hopefully at your local bike shop - just keep
asking them!!

------------------------------

Subject: 7.8  Women's Bikes
From: Lynn Karamanos <[e-mail]>

Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to
purchase a Terry bike.

1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike
that fits you, not just sell you what they have in stock.

2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you.  You may be
able to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once
you've made some adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.).

3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's
worth the extra money.

4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's
ridden a Terry has loved it.  Even those two people said they knew
others who loved Terry bikes.  Bottom line:  the fit depends on your
build. Women with long legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like
them, not necessarily just short women.

5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that
are specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well.  The
names mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus).
Also, someone mentioned that the same production line in Japan that
makes Terry "proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels.
(Also one mountain bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two
hybred bikes, Univega Via Activa and Giant Inova.)

6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front
wheel... replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be
more difficult to find and/or more expensive.

7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people
mentioned that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were
$200-$300 less than they are now.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.9  Bike Rentals
From: Various <people>

Lincoln Guide Service
Lincoln Center
Lincoln, MA
[phone]
  Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers.  About 11 miles west of
  Boston, within sight of Lincoln Center commuter rail stop.


Team Bicycle Rentals
508 Main
Huntington Beach, CA
[phone]
  12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69

Gregg's Greenlake
Seattle, WA


Second Gear
Seattle, WA


New York City Area:
All phone numbers are area code (212).

A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531
Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011
Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151
AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137
Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500
Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100
Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450
Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201
Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218
Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594
A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344
City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457

San Francisco

Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT
Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004

Marin County, CA

Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920
Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253
Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683
Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 415-332-0218


Austing, TX area

[all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes]
Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- [phone]
Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- [phone]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.10  Bike Lockers
From: David H. Wolfskill <[e-mail]>

Many thanks to all who mailed or posted an interest in my quest for
information regarding bike locker vendors; I apologize for the delay in
posting this summary.

My colleague -- thanks to some of that information -- was able to locate
a sufficiently nearby vendor... one of the requirements of which I had
not been aware was that the vendor must be fairly close (to Orange
County, CA) -- to minimize shipping charges.  (I apologize for failing
to determine this issue before posting, and hope that some of the
information about other vendors may be of value to others.)

I figured it would be more useful for me to organize the information,
so I have done so -- at the expense of making an attempt to give credit
for the sources at the point the information is quoted.  (I include a
list of sources at the end of the article.)

First, I received a few pointers to one Ellen Fletcher, such as:

>For a comprehensive treatment of the bicycle parking subject,
>along with a list of vendors & prices, contact Ellen Fletcher
>at cdp![e-mail] (put "ATTN ELLEN" in your
>"To" line.

[I requested clarification regarding addressing a note to Ms. Fletcher,
but have yet to receive it.]

>... Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA
>94303-4826, 415-495-8943.

Fortunately, someone sent a list of products & manufacturers,
apparently originally compiled by Ms. Fletcher.  I have taken the
liberty of using that list as a "base document" and have augmented it
with other information I received; entries are alphabetically by
munufacturer's name, since I don't always have product names:

(Manufacturer, {Product Name(s)}, Address, Contact Person, Phone, FAX
    [comments])

American Bicycle Security Co., {BIKE SAFE}, PO Box 7359 Ventura, CA
    93006, Thomas E. Volk, 805-933-3688 & 800-BIKESAF, 805-933-1865.

Bike Lockers Company, {BikeLokr}, PO Box 445 W. Sacramento, CA 95691,,
    916-372-6620, 916-372-3616 [approx. $300/locker, small
    quantities].

Bike-Lokr Mfg. Co., {?}, PO Box 123, Joplin, MO 64802, Jim Snyder,
    417-673-1960/800-462-4049, 417-673-3642 [approx $450/locker,
    which holds 2 bikes; seem to be the lockers used by the
    Washington, DC Metro system]

Bike Security Racks Co., {?}, PO Box 371, Cambridge, MA 02140,,
    617-547-5755, -

Bike Stable Co., Inc., {?}, PO 1402, South Bend, Indiana 46624,,
    219-233-7060, -

Cycle-Safe Inc., 2772-5 Woodlake Rd. SW Wyoming, MI 49509,,
        [phone] -

David O'Keefe Company, {Super Secure Bike Stor}, P.O. Box 4457, Alamo,
    CA 94507, Thomas & David O'Keefe, 415-637-4440, 415-837-6234.

General Machine company, {Bicycle Locker}, PO Box 405 Vacaville, CA 95696,
    Vitto Accardi, 707-446-2761, -

J.G.Wilson Corp, {Park'n'Lock Bike Garage}, PO Box 599, Norfolk, VA
    23501-0599, J.L.Bevan, 804-545-8341, 804-543-3249.

Sunshine U-LOK Corp., {Secura Bike Locker}, 31316 Via Colinas Suite 102,
    Westlake Village, CA 91362, Doug Devine, 818-707-0110.
    [Specific information near the end of the article -- dhw.]

Turtle Storage Ltd., {?}, P. O. Box 7359, Ventura, CA 93006,,, -

[Ed. note:  The complete posting is available in the archives on
draco.acs.uci.edu.]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.11  Bike computer features

[This table was created from information contained in Performance and Nashbar
catalogs.  In the table below, 'Y' means that the computer has the feature,
'O' means it is an optional feature.]

                 Speed  Ave   Max  Total Trip  Elpsd Clock Auto  Count
                       Speed Speed Miles Miles Time        OnOff Down
Avocet 30          Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 40          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 50          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Micro       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity        Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity 2      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Wireless    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Vectra      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye ATC         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Ciclo 37           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Ciclo IIA          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y                 Y     Y
Performance ITV    Y                 Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Vetta Innovator    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta HR1000       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-10         Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-15         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-20         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Two          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Wireless     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Specialized        Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     S
   Speed Zone

                 Cadence Wireless Altitude Heart
                                           Rate
Avocet 30
Avocet 40
Avocet 50          O                 Y
Cateye Micro       Y
Cateye Mity
Cateye Mity 2
Cateye Wireless             Y
Cateye Vectra
Cateye ATC
Ciclo 37
Ciclo IIA          O                 O       O
Performance ITV
Vetta Innovator
Vetta HR1000                                 Y
Vetta C-10
Vetta C-15
Vetta C-20         Y
Vetta Two          Y
Vetta Wireless              Y
Specialized
   Speed Zone

------------------------------

Subject: 7.12  Recumbent Bike Info
From: David Wittenberg <[e-mail]>
                     (updated by Gary Walsh  [e-mail])

Here's my standard response to questions about recumbents.  I'd be
happy to answer more specific questions.


Here's some info I posted in the fall of 1990.  I think it's still pretty much
up to date.  Changes from the last posting are in []'s.

--David Wittenberg

A few words about recumbent design, and then I'll provide a much
larger list of recumbent manufacturers.

There are three main choices in designing (or buying) a recumbent.
Frame material -- all the ones I know of are either Alumninum or Steel.
Wheelbase --  The front wheel can either be in front of the bottom bracket
(long wheelbase) or behind it (short wheelbase).  You can't have a medium
wheelbase without a lot of extra work because the wheel and the bottom
bracket would interfere with each other.  Long wheelbase is reputed to
be a bit more stable, while short wheelbase machines are often easier to
fit into cars for transport.  Some long wheelbase recumbents fold in
neat ways to fit into a remarkably small space.
Handlebars -- under seat or in front of the rider.  Under seat is probably
a more comfortable position when you get used to it (your hands just hang
at your sides), and may be somewhat safer if you get thrown forward as
there is nothing in front of you.  High handlebars are somewhat faster
as your arms are in front of you instead of at your side, thus reducing
the frontal area.  Some people find them more natural.
[There are long wheelbase bikes with both high and low handlebars.  I don't
know of any short wheelbase, low handlebar recumbents, but there may
be some I don't know of.]

The following updated by Gary Walsh ([e-mail]) July 1992.

There are a couple of interesting publications for recumbents:

International Human Powered Vehicle Association
P.O. Box 51255
Indianapolis, IN  46251  USA

They publish Human Power Magazine and HPV News on all aspects of human
powered transportation (bikes, aircraft, watercraft.)
Dues are US$25/year in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, and US$30 elsewhere.


The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America/Recumbent Cyclist Magazine
PO Box 58755
Renton, WA  98058-1755.
[phone]

The best source of information on commercially available recumbents.  Read
the reviews in this magazine before you buy your first recumbent.
Subscriptions are US$25 in the U.S.A., and US$30/year elsewhere. Sample
issue and info pack $5.  See especially the buyers guide in issue #8
Oct-Dec 1992.



Addresses of recumbent manufacturers:

Ace Tool & Engineering  (Infinity Recumbent)  $1 for a flyer
P.O Box 325
292 W. Harrison St.
Mooresville, IN  46158
[phone]             Long wheelbase, low handlebars, aluminum frames.
                           $499 + $85 for triple crank option.
                           Information $1.

Alternative Bikestyles
P.O. Box 1344
Bonita, CA 91908
Phone [phone]       Maverick $ Renegade LWB recumbents with upright
                          handlebars.  Framesets from $200.  Complete bikes
                          from $395.

Advanced Transportation Products
550 3rd Ave. N.
Edmonds, WA 98020
Phone [phone]       R-20 SWB.  $1350.  Info pack $2.

Angle Lake Cyclery
20840 Pacific Hwy S.
Seattle WA 98198
Phone [phone]      Counterpoint Presto SWB with upright handlebars.
                             Presto SE Tour $1699.
                             Presto SE High Performance $???.
                             Presto CL $1399.
                         Counterpoint Opus IV Tandem
                             Opus CL $2999
                             Opus SE $3599
                         Tri Com Trikes $600-$700.
                         Catalogue $2

Original Car-Cycle Technology
1311 Victoria Ave.
Victoria, B.C.,
Canada V8S 4P4
Phone [phone]      Fully fared commuter trike.  Under development.

DH Recumbents, Inc.
4007-G Bellaire Blvd.
Houston, TX 77025
Phone [phone]      LWB with upright steering.
                         DH1000 $999, DH5000 $1395.

Earth Traveller
1475 Lillian St.
Livermore, CA 94550
Phone [phone]      LWB trike with 2 wheels in back.
                         Information $1.

EcoCycle
Earth Friendly Transportation
5755 NW Fair Oaks Dr.
Corvallis, OR  97330
[phone]           The Trice is a recumbent tricycle, with
                       two wheels in front.  Touring $1495.
                       Speed model $1595.
                       Also imports Ross recumbent from England.
                       $2 for flyer, $9 for video tape.

Easy Racers, Inc
Box 255H
Freedom, CA  95019
[phone]         High handlebar, long wheelbase bikes.
                       Easy Racer $2300.  Frameset $1650.
                       Gold Rush Replica, commercial version of
                       the Dupont prize winning Gold Rush (world's
                       fastest bike) also available.
                       $2 for a catalog

Lightning Cycle Dynamics
312 Ninth Street
Lompoc,   CA  93436
[phone]            P-38 Short Wheelbase, high handlebars.
                          Full fairings are available, and very
                          fast.  $1750.
                          F-40 fully fared version.

Lightning Cycle Inc. (Tailwind)        $1 for a brochure
3819 Rte.  295
Swanton, OH  43558
[phone]            Steel long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                          Around $1200.


Linear Manufacturing Inc.  (Linear)
Route 1, Box 173
Guttenberg,  IA  52052
[phone]           Long Wheelbase aluminum bike with either
                         high or low handlebars  (You can convert
                         from one to the other.)  $900 to $1200.
                         They sell through dealers, and if you
                         get in touch with them they'll tell you
                         where the nearest dealer is.  Canadians
                         see S.C. Safety Cycle below.

Rans Recumbents
1104 E. Hwy. 40 Bypass
Hays,  KS  67601
[phone]          Rans Stratus A & B and Nimbus. LWB with
                        upright handlebars.  $995-$1495.

ReBike
P.O Box 725
Boca Raton, FL 33429
Phone [phone]    The ReBike.  A low priced semi-recumbent
                       with upright steering.  New and a big seller.
                       $389.

Rotator
915 Middle Rincon Rd.
Santa Rosa,  CA  95409
[phone]          Rotator Super-7 Streamliner - LWB with 20" wheels.
                        Rotator Companion Tandem.

Rhoades International
100 Rhoades Lane
Hendersonville, TN 37075
Phone [phone]     4-wheel pedal car. $999 and up.
                        Information $4. Video $19.

Ryan Recumbents, Inc.
1 Chestnut Street
Nashua, NH 03060
[phone]          Vanguard. Long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                        From $1295.

S.C. Safety Cycle Inc.
1340B St. Paul St.
Kelowna, B.C.
Canada V1Y 2E1          Canadian distributor of the Linear which is
                        sold as "The Alternative."  CAN$1495.

Special Purpose Vehicles
120 Prospect Street
Somerville, MA 02143
[phone]

Thebis International
110-2031 Malaview Ave.
Sidney, B.C.
Canada V8L 3X9
Phone [phone]
1-800-667-6801         Thebis 201 Touring Trike. Two wheels in back.
                       $2990.

Trailmate
2359 Trailmate Dr.
Sarasota FL 34243
Phone [phone]     Fun Cycle and Bannana Peel trikes. $399.

Turner Enterprises
P.O.Box 36158
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Phone [phone]       SWB with underseat steering.
                       Laid Back "E" frame kit $375.
                       LB-2000  $1500.  Frameset $899.

Zzip Designs
P.O. Box 14
Davenport, CA 95017
Phone [phone]    Manufacturer of fairings for many of the
                       bikes listed above.

Cyclopedia
P.O. Box 884
Adrian, MI 49221
1-800-678-1021         Good source for parts for builders.
----------------
European Recumbents

Leitra APS
PO Box 64 DK-2750
Ballerup, Denmark      Leitra M2 fully fared commuter trike.
                       3400 DM for the trike.
                       5845 DM for complete vehicle with accessories.

Bas Ten Brinke
Postbus 10075
1301 Almere,
Netherlands            Flevo SWB front wheel drive.

Fateba, Bachman & Co.
Rosenstr. 9,
8400 Winterthur
Switzerland            Fateba Winglet L1  LWB.

Kincycle
Miles Kingsbury
Lane End Road, Sands,
High Wycombe, Bucks
HP12 4JQ England       The Kingcycle SWB.

M5
Bram Moens
Waalstraat 41,
NL-4335 KL
Middleburg, Netherlands.   M5 SWB.

Neatwork
The Lees Stables
Coldstream, Berwickshire,
Scotland TD12-4NN          Dealer for Kingcycle SWB and Radius
                           Peer Gynt LWB.

Radius-Spezialrader,
Frie-Vendt-Str 16, D-4400
Munster, Germany RFA       Peer Gynt LWB with underseat steering.

More Recumbent Bike Info  (Gary Walsh  [e-mail])

[This has been copied from a flyer written by Robert Bryant of the
Recumbent Cyclist Magazine.  He has given me permission to submit
it for the FAQ. - Gary]

          Have You Ever Considered a RECUMBENT BICYCLE?

WHY RECUMBENT BICYCLES?
     There are many reasons to consider a recumbent.  First and foremost
is comfort.  When you ride a recumbent bicycle you will no longer have
an aching back, stiff neck, numb wrists or a sore a sore bottom.  You
will sit in a relaxed easy-chair position.  You will be able to ride
longer with less fatigue and arrive at your destination feeling
refreshed.  The recumbent position offerd you a great view of the
countryside. While seated you will look straight ahead. This allows your
lungs and chest more open and free breathing.  Recumbents are very
versatile machines.  They can be used for a wide range of applications:
recreational/sport riding, for the daily commute, a fast double century
and they are great for long distance touring.

RECUMBENT PERFORMANCE
     Recumbents hold all of the human-powered speed records.  This is
because they are aerodynamically superior to conventional bicycles;
less frontal area means less wind resistance.  The Lightning F-40
currently holds the Race Across America speed record of five days and
one hour.  Gardner Martin's Easy Racer Gold Rush, ridden by Fast Freddie
Markham, was the winner of the Dupont Prize for breaking 65mph.  You
can currently buy production versions of these bicycles.  Fairings for
street use are common and optional equipment on most commercially built
models.  They protect you from rain, cold and wind, with up to a 30%
reduction in drag.  Commercially available recumbents are not always
faster than conventional bicycles.  It depends mainly on the individual
rider.  Your best bet is to do you homework and if your goal is
performance and speed, be sure that you look for a recumbent designed
for this purpose.

COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RECUMBENT BICYCLES
1) Do recumbents climb hills well?  Yes they do, although climbing on a
recumbent requires a different technique, you must gear down and spin.
Maintaining an efficient spin takes some practice & conditioning, once
mastered, it takes less physical effort to climb hills.  Depending on
your riding style, your speeds can range from slowwer to even faster
than on a conventional bicycle.
2) Can recumbents be seen in traffic?  Recumbents with a higher seating
position may be better suited for riding in traffic than some of the
low-slung designs.  The use of use of proper safety devices such as
safety flags and reflective devices is recommended.  Recumbent bicycles
are different, futuristic and they get noticed.  Many riders feel they
get more respect from motorists while on their recumbents.
3) Are they safe?  Recumbent's are safer than a conventional bicycle.
Due to the low centre of gravity, they stop faster.  Brakes can be
evenly applied to both wheels simultaneously providing more traction
without throwing the rider over the handlebars.  In crash situations,
the rider goes down to the side absorbing the impact with the hip and
leg rather than flying over the handlebars and absorbing the impact on
your head and shoulder.  Straight ahead vision is also better on a
recumbent, however, rear view mirrors are necessary for proper
rearward
vision.

RECUMBENT PAST HISTORY
     Why are recumbents such a rare sight?  Space age technology?  New
type of bicycle?  Not really, recumbent bicycles actually go back as
far as the mid to late 1800's with the Macmillan Velocopede and the
Challand Recumbent.  In the 1930's, a series of events took place that
changed bicycling history.  A French second category professional
track cyclist named Francois Faure rode the Velocar, a two wheeled
recumbent bicycle designed and built by Charles Mochet, to
record-shattering speeds, breaking both the mile and kilometre records
of the day.  This created a storm of controversy within the U.C.I.
(United Cycliste International), bicycle rating's governing body.  The
debate centred on whether the Velocar was a bicycle and were these
records legal?  In 1934 they ruled against the Mochet-Faure record,
banning recumbent bicycles and aerodynamic devices from racing.  Were
U.C.I. members worried that the recumbent bicycle would displace the
conventional design?  Did they realize this would freeze bicycle and
human-powered vehicle development for the next forty years?  This is
why bicycles of taday look very similar to the Starkey and Sutton
Safety (upright/conventional) of 1885.  Just think where bicycle
technology would be today if the U.C.I. decision had gone the opposite
way.

MODERN RECUMBENT HISTORY
     Recumbent development was fairly quiet until the late 1960's.  Dan
Henry received some media attention for his long wheelbase design in
1968.  In the early 1970's, the human-powered revolution was starting up
on both the U.S. east coast by David Gordon, designer of the Avatar, and
on the west coast by Chester Kyle.  These pioneers recognized the need
for further development of human-powered vehicles. In the late 1970's
and early 1980's, this lead to the first commercial recumbent bicycle
designs such as the Avatar, Easy Racer and Hypercycle.  In 1990, the
Recumbent Bicycle Club of America was founded by Dick Ryan who currently
manufactures the Ryan Vanguard and was also involved with the Avatar
project in the early 1980's.  In 1988 recumbent promoter Robert Bryant
got his start writing "Recumbent Ramblings," a column for "HPV News."
In the summer of 1990, Robert founded the "Recumbent Cyclist Magazine,"
and in a short two years, RCM has become the source for recumbent bicyle
information in the world today.

SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION


RECUMBENT CYCLIST MAGAZINE
17560-B6-140th Ave SE, Ste 341
Renton WA 98058

__$2 Info-Pak/recumbent manufacturer list
__$5 Current sample issue with info-pak/list
__$20 USA Bulk Mail Subscription
__$25 USA First Class Mail Subscription Rush Service
__$30 Canada Air Mail
__$35 Worldwide Air Mail (USA funds) (anywhere outside USA/CAN)
__$50 Junior Supporter (includes 3 copies of each issue, mailed first
    class
__$100 RBCA Supporter (includes 10 copies of each issue mailed Priority)


BACK ISSUE ORDERING INFO

-Back issues are mailed 3rd class postage. (allow 4 weeks for delivery.)
-First Class Mail/Rush Service - add $.50 per issue.
-Canadian Air Mail/Rush Service - add $1.00 per issue.
-Worldwide Air Mail - add $2.00 per issue.
-Super-Rush Service?  We can do FEDEX overnight C.O.D.

$4.00  __RC#2  Flevo & CSPC "Poor Man's Composite"
$4.00  __RC#3  DH5000 LWB Road Test
$4.00  __RC#4  Ryan Vanguard Road Test/F-40/Flevo
$4.00  __RC#5  Linear LWB Road Test/Omega HPV/HPV Design Info
$4.50  __RC#6  Easy Racer Road Test
$4.50  __RC#7  Lightning P-38 Road Test
$4.50  __RC#8  1992 Recumbent Buyers Guide
$4.50  __RC#9  A.T.P. R-20 SWB Road Test
$4.50  __RC#10 Thebis Trike Road Test
$4.50  __RC#11 Counterpoint Presto Road Test
$4.50  __RC#12 Rans Road Test (available 9/92)
$4.50  __RC#13 Trice Road Test (Available 11/92)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 1/93)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 3/93)
$4.50  __RC#15 (Available 5/93)

------------------------------

Subject: 7.13  Buying a Bike

One thing to decide before buying a bike is what type to buy.  Here's a
brief list:

  Road bike    Once known as a "ten-speed", most are now 12 or 14 (or even
               16) speed.  There are several sub-types: racing, sport,
               and touring, the difference mostly in frame geometry.

  ATB          All-terrain bike, also known as mountain bike.  Great for
               riding in the dirt, these bikes usually have fat, knobby
               tires for traction in dirt and gravel.

  Hybrid       A bike that borrows from road bikes and ATBs.  For example,
               they have the light frame and 700c wheels of road bikes and
               fat knobby tires, triple cranks, wide-range derailleurs,
               flat handlebars and cantilever brakes from mountain bikes.


Bike buying hints

When you're ready to buy a bike, you should first decide what you want
to use the bike for.  Do you want to race?  Do you want to pedal along
leisurely?  Do you want to ride in the dirt?

Next, you should decide on a price range.  Plan to spend at least
$350 for a decent quality bike.

Now find a good bike shop.  Ask friends who bike.  Ask us here on the
net.  Chances are, someone here lives in your area and can recommend
a shop.

Now that you are ready to look for a bike, visit the shop(s) you have
selected.  Test ride several bikes in your price range.  How does it
feel?  Does it fit you?  How does it shift?  Does it have the features
you are looking for?  How do the shop personnel treat you?  Remember
that the shop gets the bike disassembled and has to spend a couple of
hours putting it together and adjusting things, so look for sloppy
work (If you see some, you may want to try another shop).  You might
want to try a bike above your price range to see what the differences
are (ask the salesperson).

Ask lots of questions - pick the salesperson's brain.  If you don't
ask questions, they may recommend a bike that's not quite right
for you.  Ask about places to ride, clubs, how to take care of your
bike, warranties, etc.  Good shops will have knowledgable people
who can answer your questions.  Some shops have free or low-cost
classes on bike maintenance; go and learn about how to fix a flat,
adjust the brakes and derailleurs, overhaul your bike, etc.
Ask your questions here - there are lots of people here just waiting
for an excuse to post!

Make sure that the bike fits you.  If you don't, you may find that
you'll be sore in places you never knew could be so sore.  For road
bikes, you should be able to straddle the top tube with your feet flat
on the ground and still have about 1 inch of clearance.  For mountain
bikes, give yourself at least 2-3 inches of clearance.  You may need
a longer or shorter stem or cranks depending on your build - most
bikes are setup for "average" bodies.  The bike shop can help you
with adjustments to the handlebars and seat.

Now that you've decided on a bike, you need some accessories.  You
should consider buying

   a helmet
   a frame pump
   a tube repair kit
   tire levers (plastic)
   a pressure gauge
   a seat pack (for repair kit, wallet, keys, etc)
   gloves
   a water bottle and cage
   a lock

The shop can help you select these items and install them on your bike.


------------------------------

Subject: 8  Tech

------------------------------

Subject: 8.1  Technical Support Numbers
From: Joshua Putnam <[e-mail]>

[This list is now in the ftp archives as it is too long to put here]

------------------------------

Subject: 8.2  Ball Bearing Grades
From: Bill Codding <[e-mail]>,
      Harry Phinney <[e-mail]>

Following is a description of the different grades of ball bearings.
The grade specifies the sphericity of the balls in millionths of an inch.
Thus, grade 25 are round to 25/10^6, while grade 1000 are good to 1/1000
(i.e.  not all that round, but probably good enough for our uses).

   Grade 25: the highest quality normally available, aka
      "Campagnolo quality": hardened all the way through, best
      alloys, coatings, roundness, and durability.  Evidently,
      a recent bottom-bracket overhaul article in "Bicycling Plus
      Mountain Bike" magazine recommended these.  Campy's tech reps
      claim that the bearings in a set (usually in a little paper bag)
      are matched.  One should not mix bearings from different sets.

   Grade 200: mid-range

   Grade 1000: seems to be the lowest, may only be surface
      hardened.

Good sources for ball bearings:

   Your local bike shop (make sure you're getting the grade you want)
   Bike Parts Pacific
   Bike Nashbar  1-800-NASHBAR    ($1-$3 per 100 Grade 25)
   The Third Hand 1-916-926-2600  ($4-$7 per 100 Grade 25)

------------------------------

Subject: 8.3  SIS Cable Info
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

After Joe Gorin described the SIS "non-compressive" cable housing to
me I got myself a sample to understand what the difference is.  I
believe "non-compressive" is a misnomer.  This cable housing is NOT
non-compressive but rather a constant length housing.  As far as I can
determine, and from reports from bike shops, this housing should not
be used for brakes because it is relatively weak in compression, the
principal stress for brake housing.

SIS housing is made of 18 strands of 0.5mm diameter round spring steel
wire wrapped in a 100mm period helix around a 2.5mm plastic tube.  The
assembly is held together by a 5mm OD plastic housing to make a
relatively stiff cable housing.  Because the structural wires lie in a
helix, the housing length remains constant when bent in a curve.  Each
strand of the housing lies both on the inside and outside of the curve
so on the average the wire path length remains constant, as does the
housing centerline where the control cable resides.  Hence, no length
change.  A brake cable housing, in contrast, changes length with
curvature because only the inside of the curve remains at constant
length while the outside (and centerline) expands.

Shimano recommends this cable only for shift control but makes no
special effort to warn against the danger of its use for brakes.  It
should not be used for anything other than shift cables because SIS
housing cannot safely withstand compression.  Its wires stand on end
and have no compressive strength without the stiff plastic housing
that holds them together.  They aren't even curved wires, so they
splay out when the outer shield is removed.  Under continuous high
load of braking, the plastic outer housing can burst leaving no
support.  Besides, in its current design it is only half as flexible
as brake cable because its outer shell is made of structurally stiff
plastic unlike the brake cable housing that uses a soft vinyl coating.

Because brake cables transmit force rather than position, SIS cable,
even if safe, would have no benefit.  In contrast, with handlebar
controls to give precise shift positioning, SIS housing can offer some
advantage since the cable must move though steering angles.  SIS
housing has no benefit for downtube attached shifters because the
cable bends do not change.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.4  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
From: Chuck Tryon <[e-mail]>

  Actually, I have used plastic like this (or in my case, some
  red plastic from a cheap note book cover -- it's heavier) to extend the
  bottom (rear) end of the front fender.  The Zephals are good, but they
  don't stop the splash from where the tire hits the road from getting on my
  feet.  What I did was cut a small triangle about 3in (~7cm) wide by 6in
  (~15cm) long, cut a hole in the top of it and the bottom end of the fender,
  and use a pop-rivet (with washers to prevent tear out) to attach it.  On a
  road bike, it should be end up being within a few inches of the road.  ATB's
  will need more clearance, so this won't work well off road.

        |   |
        |   |
       /| o |\   <----- rivet with washer on inside
      | \___/ |
      /       \   <---- flap fits inside of the fender, and follows the
     |         |        curve, which gives it some stiffness.
     |         |
     |         |
     \_________/
         | |
         | |     <----- bottom of tire
         \_/

------------------------------

Subject: 8.5  Lubricating Chains

Lubricating chains is a somewhat religious issue.  Some advocate oil,
some Teflon-base lubricants, some paraffin wax.  The net majority favors
a lubricant that does not leave an oily coating on the chain that can
attract dirt, which will hasten chain/chainring/freewheel sprocket wear.

If you want to use paraffin wax, make sure you melt the wax in a double
boiler!  Failure to do so can lead to a fire.  You can use a coffee
can in a pan of boiling water if you don't want to mess up good cookware.
After the wax has melted, put the chain in the wax and simmer for 10
minutes or so.  Remove the chain, hang it up, and wipe the excess wax
off.  Let it cool and reinstall on your bike.

When using a liquid lubricant, you want to get the lube onto the pins
inside the rollers on the chains, not on the outside where it does little
good.  Oilers with the narrow tubes are good for this because you can put
the lube where you want it.  Work the oil into the chain after applying
it, wipe the chain off, and reinstall on your bike.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.6  Wear and Gear Slippage
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

There seems to be a lot of speculation on what makes chains wear and
how to lubricate a chain.  There are a number of ways to take care of
a chain.  Of these, some traditional methods are the most damaging to
chain life and others work to prolong life.

As was mentioned on the net, chains don't stretch in the sense that
the metal elongates, but the parts wear.  Wear in the pins and sleeves
change the length of the chain as the pins fit more loosely.  The wear
arises primarily from road grit that enters the chain when it is
oiled.  Grit on the outside of a chain is the ugly black stuff that
gets on your leg.  This dirt has no effect on chain function because
it can't get inside to do damage.  Only when a dirty chain is oiled
does this grit get to the place where it can cause damage.  Note that
commercial abrasive grinding paste is made of oil and silicon dioxide
(sand) and silicon carbide (sand).  You couldn't do a better job if
you tried to destroy a chain than to oil a road dirt (previously
oiled) encrusted chain.

Primitive rule #1:  Never oil a chain on the bike.

This means you should clean the grit off the chain before oiling it.
Because this is essentially impossible without submerging the chain in
a solvent bath (kerosene or commercial solvent), you must take the
chain off the bike.  The fine grit can only be removed from the
interior of the chain in liquid suspension.  A good example of this
can be seen by using a Vetta (on the bike) chain cleaner and
subsequently cleaning the same chain in a solvent bath.  The best grit
remains until last and there's plenty of it.  Of course it isn't
always possible to remove a chain and there are times (in the rain)
when a chain screams for oil when a good cleaning is not an option.

Removing the solvent from the chain after the rinse is important.
Compressed air is not readily available in the household nor is a
centrifuge.  You can go outdoors and sling the chain around.  This
works best if the chain is a closed loop.  You don't have to press the
pin completely in for this.  The other way is to evaporate it.  You
should probably avoid accelerated drying methods because they could be
explosive.

The hot gear lube method works but it also acts as efficient fly
paper, collecting plenty of grime between cogs.  Motor oil is good but
motorcycle chain lubricants are better because they have volatile
solvents that allow good penetration for their relatively viscous
lubricant.  Paraffin works poorly because it is not mobile and cannot
replenish the bearing surface once it has been displaced.

Sedisport

The Sedisport chain, although the strongest and one of the lightest
chains, achieves its light weight at the expense of durability.  This
chain has no sleeve that on most roller chains supports the roller on
its outside and furnishes the bearing for the pin on the inside.
Normally the inside of the sleeve is well protected against lubricant
depletion because both ends are covered by closely fitting side
plates.  In the Sedisport there is no sleeve and the formed side
plates support the roller and pin with a substantial central gap.  In
the wet, lubricant is quickly washed out of pin and roller and the
inferior bearing for the pin and roller often gall and bind.  In good
weather this may not be a problem.  Because this chain has feet of
clay in the wet, Sedis re-introduced their earlier 5 element
conventional chain, calling it a "chain for all seasons".

The lightweight Regina chain goes one step farther and omits the pin,
leaving the side plates to hinge directly on the sleeve.  This gives
them a knife edge bearing area that galls at the slightest lube
depletion.

Chain Life

This is almost entirely a cleanliness and lubrication question rather
than a load problem.  The effect of load variations is insignificant
when compared to the lube and grit effects for bicycles.  The primary
chains on motorcycles are operated under clean conditions and last
years while the exposed rear chains must be replaced often.

The only way to test whether a chain is worn is by measurement.  The
chain has a half inch pitch and, when new, has a pin at exactly every
half inch.  As the pins and sleeves wear this spacing increases and
becomes damaging to sprockets.  When the chain pitch grows over one
half percent it is time for a new chain.  At one percent chainring
damage progresses rapidly.  By holding a ruler along the chain on your
bike, align an inch mark with a pin and see how far off the mark the
pin is at twelve inches.  An eighth of an inch (0.125) is the ten
percent limit while more than a sixteenth is a prudent time to get a
new chain.

Skipping Chain

When you put on a new chain, its pitch is exactly one half inch.  A
sprocket, worn by a longer pitch (worn) chain, has hooked teeth.  The
hooked profile is formed by the rollers of a worn chain as they exit
the sprocket under load.  Rollers of a new chain with correct pitch
exit under no load because the load is transferred to the next roller
before disengagement.  However, with hooked sprockets the new chain
cannot engage under load because the pitch is too small to get over
the hook and into the pocket.  These differences are only a few
thousandths of an inch but that is enough to prevent engagement when
the previous roller is fully engaged.

As a chain wears it concentrates more of its load on the last tooth of
a sprocket before disengagement because its pitch no longer matches
the pitch of the sprocket.  This effect sometimes breaks off sprocket
teeth.  The load concentration on the sprocket also accelerates wear
and is another reason to replace a chain at 1/16th inch wear.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.7  Adjusting Chain Length
From: Bob Fishell <[e-mail]>

For all Shimano SIS and Hyperglide systems, the chain is sized by shifting to
the smallest rear cog and the largest front sprocket, then sizing the
chain so that the derailleur pulleys are on a vertical line, or as close
as you can get to it.  Note that this will result in the same chain length
for any freewheel within the capacity of the derailleur, so it usually is
not necessary to re-size the chain for a different cogset with these systems.

The other rule I've used (friction systems) involves shifting to the largest
chainring and the largest rear cog, then sizing the chain so that the pulleys
are at a 45 degree angle to the ground.

The rules probably vary from derailleur to derailleur.  In general,
you may use the capacity of the rear derailleur cage as a guideline. You
want the chain short enough so the cage can take up the slack in the
smallest combination of chainwheel and rear cog you will use. The chain
must also be long enough so that the cage still has some travel in the
largest combination you will use.

For example, if you have a 42x52 crank and a 13x21 freewheel, the smallest
combination you would use would be a 42/14 (assuming you don't use the
diagonal). If the cage can take up the slack in this combo, it's short enough.
If the cage has spring left when you are in the 52/19 combo (again, you are
not using the diagonal), it's long enough.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.8  Hyperglide chains
From: Mark Chandler <[e-mail]>

For those of you that are tired of dealing with Shimano's
chains with the special pins, I've found that the following
chains work well with Shimano Hyperglide gearing systems:

DID SuperShift
Sedis ATB
Union 800
Union 915

The SuperShift is probably the best performer of the bunch,
followed by the ATB and 915.  The 800 doesn't do too well
with narrow cogsets (i.e., 8-speeds) because the raised
elliptical bumps on the side-plates tend to rub on the adjacent
cogs.

I've also found that these chains work well on SunTour systems.
The 915, however, works better on PowerFlo cogs than it does
on regular (AccuShift) cogs (where it tends to slip when shifting).

------------------------------

Subject: 8.9  Bottom Bracket Info
From: Jobst Brandt  <[e-mail]>

The four kinds of BB threads in common use today are Italian, British,
French, and Swiss, possibly in that order of occurrence.

           Diameter   Pitch    Right Left Cup
           --------   -----    ----- -----
Italian    36mm   x   24F tpi  right right        tpi (threads per inch)
British    1.370" x   24F tpi  left  right
French     35mm   x   1mm      right right
Swiss      35mm   x   1mm      left  right

Unless there is something wrong with the right hand cup it should not be
removed but should be wiped clean and greased from the left side.  The
thread type is usually marked on the face of both left and right cups.
Swiss threads are rare but if you have one it is good to know before
attempting removal.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.10  Crank noises
From: Phil Etheridge <[e-mail]>

I've had the creaky crank problem on every bike I've owned which has
had cotterless cranks.  Until now, I've never known a good solution to
the problem.

One suggestion I had was to replace the crank, but that wasn't
something I was prepared to do on 1 month old bike under warranty.
The shop mechanic spent half an hour with me and my bike sorting it
out.  Tightening the crank bolts and pedal spindle (i.e. onto the
crank) didn't help (as Jobst will tell you).

Removing each crank, smearing the spindle with grease and replacing
the crank eliminated most of the noise.  Removing each pedal, smearing
grease on the thread and replacing it got rid of the rest of the
noise.

Greasing the pedal threads is a new one on me, but it makes a lot of
sense, since they are steel and the crank aluminum.  I thought it was
worth relating this story, as creaky cranks seems to be quite a common
problem.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.11  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

[Ed note:  Yes, another disputed issue is contained here - whether to
lube the crank tapers before installing the crankarms.  This has
popped up from time to time on rec.bicycles, and has never been
resolved one way or the other.  The text here is Jobst's viewpoint.]

Cranks break because they are aluminum and because they have high
stress at various points.  The worst of these points are at the
pedal eye and where the spider fingers join the right crank.  The
pedal eye is a bad place because the joint is incorrectly designed,
but since it is a standard, it may not be changed since it seems to
work.  This joint always moves and causes fretting corrosion and
cracks.  These cracks propagate into the crank and cause failure.
A better joint here would be a 45 degree taper instead of a flat
shoulder at the end of the pedal thread.

The thin web between the spider and crank, another common crack
origin on cranks like the Campagnolo Record, was nicely redesigned
in the C-Record crank, but to make up for that the C-Record is
otherwise weaker than the Record version.  My experience is that
they break in about 1500 miles because the pedal eye has a smaller
cross section than the Record model, but maybe the alloy is poorer
too.  I have subsequently used Dura Ace cranks for more than two
years with no failure yet.  I don't believe in eternal life here
either.

Aluminum has no safe fatigue limit but just gets progressively safer
as stress is reduced.  In contrast, steel has a threshold below
which failures cease.  Therein lies some of the problem.

As for cranks loosening, one can view the junction between spindle
and crank in an exaggerated elastic model where the spindle is made
of plastic and the crank of Rubbermaid household rubber.  The crank,
once properly installed and the retaining bolt in place, squirms on
the square taper when under torque.  During these deformations the
crank can move only in one direction because the bolt prevents it
from coming off.  The crank always slides farther up the taper.
Proof that the crank squirms is given by the fretting rouge always
found on the spindle, whether lubricated or not, when a crank is
pulled off after substantial use.

As was mentioned by various observers, the left crank bolt is
usually looser, after use, than the right one and this could be
anticipated because the two cranks differ in their loading.  This
does not mean the left crank is looser.  Actually it is tighter,
only the bolt is looser.  The left crank is more heavily loaded
because it experiences offset twist from the pedal at the same time
it transmits torque to the spindle.  The right crank, being
connected to the chain, experiences either spindle torque from the
left pedal or twist from the right pedal but not torque and twist at
the same time.

In this squirming mode, cranks wander away from the retaining bolt
and leave it loose after the first hard workout (for riders of more
than 150 lbs).  The bolts should NOT be re-tightened because they
were correctly tight when installed.  Cranks have been split in half
from repeated follow-up tightening, especially left cranks.  The
spindle should be lubricated before installing cranks.  A wipe of a
mechanic's finger is adequate since this is to prevent galling in
the interface.  To prevent losing a loose crank bolt, the "dust"
cover that is in fact the lock cap should be installed.

Those who have had a crank spindle break, can attest to the greater
stress on the left side because this is the end that always breaks
from fatigue.  A fatigue crack generally has a crystalline
appearance and usually takes enough time to develop that the face of
the fracture oxidizes so that only the final break is clean when
inspected.  Because a notch acts to concentrate stress, the
advancing crack amplifies this effect and accelerates the advance
once the crack has initiated.

I have heard of instructions to not lubricate spindles before
installing cranks but I have never been able to find it in any
manufacturer's printed material.  Although I have broken many
Campagnolo cranks, none has ever failed at the spindle.  I am
certain that the standard machine practice of lubricating a taper
fit has no ill effects.  I have also never had a crank come loose
nor have I re-tightened one once installed.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.12  Biopace chainrings

Biopace chainrings have fallen into disfavor in recent years.  They
are hard to "pedal in circles".  The early Biopace chainrings were
designed for cadences of around 50-70 rpm, while most recommend a
cadence of 80-100 rpm.  Newer Biopace chainrings are less elliptical,
but the general consensus is to (if you are buying a new bike) get the
dealer to change the chainrings to round ones.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.13  Snakebite flats

Snakebite flats are usually caused by the tire and tube being pinched
between the road and the rim, causing two small holes in the tube that
look like a snakebite.  The usual causes are underinflation, too
narrow a tire for your weight, or hitting something (rock, pothole)
while having your full weight on the tire.

The obvious solutions are to make sure your tires are inflated properly,
use a larger size tire if you weigh a lot, and either avoid rocks and
potholes or stand up with your knees and elbows flexed (to act like shock
absorbers) when you go over them.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.14  Blown Tubes
From: Tom Reingold <[e-mail]>

Charles E Newman writes:

$      Something really weird happened at 12:11 AM. My bike blew a
$ tire while just sitting parked in my room. I was awakened by a noise
$ that scared the livin ^&$% out of me. I ran in and found that all the
$ air was rushing out of my tire. How could something like happen in the
$ middle of the night when the bike isn't even being ridden? I  have
$ heard of it happening when the bike is being ridden but not when it is
$ parked.

This happened because a bit of your inner tube was pinched between your
tire bead and your rim.  Sometimes it takes a while for the inner tube
to creap out from under the tire.  Once it does that, it has nothing to
keep the air pressure in, so it blows out.  Yes, it's scary.  I've had
it happen in the room where I was sleeping.

To prevent this, inflate the tire to about 20 psi and move the tire
left and right, making sure no part of the inner tube is pinched.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.15  Mounting Tires
From: Douglas Gurr <[e-mail]>

A request comes in for tyre mounting tricks. I suspect that this ought to be
part of the FAQ list. However in lieu of this, I offer the way it was taught
to me. Apologies to those for whom this is old hat, and also for the paucity
of my verbal explanations. Pictures would help but, as always, the best bet
is to find someone to show you.

First of all, the easy bit:

1) Remove the outer tyre bead from the rim. Leave the inner bead.
   Handy hint. If after placing the first tyre lever you
   are unable to fit another in because the tension in the bead is too great
   then relax the first, slip the second in and use both together.
2) Pull out the tube finishing at the valve.
3) Inspect the tube, find the puncture and repair it.

Now an important bit:

4) Check tyre for thorns, bits of glass etc - especially at the point where
   the hole in the tube was found.

and now a clever bit:

5) Inflate the tube a _minimal_ amount, i.e. just sufficient for it to
   hold its shape. Too much inflation and it won't fit inside the tyre.
   Too little (including none at all) and you are likely to pinch it.

More important bits:

6) Fit the tube back inside the tyre. Many people like to cover the tube in
   copious quantities of talcum powder first. This helps to lubricate
   the tyre/tube interface as is of particular importance in high pressure
   tyres.
7) Seat the tyre and tube over the centre of the rim.
8) Begin replacing the outer bead by hand. Start about 90 degrees away from
   the valve and work towards it. After you have safely passed the valve,
   shove it into the tyre (away from the rim) to ensure that you have
   not trapped the tube around the valve beneath the tyre wall.

Finally the _really_ clever bit:

9) When you reach the point at which you can no longer proceed by hand,
   slightly _deflate_ the tube and try again. Repeat this process until
   either the tyre is completely on (in which case congratulations)
   or the tube is completely deflated. In the latter case, you will have
   to resort to using tyre levers and your mileage may vary. Take care.

and the last important check:

10) Go round the entire wheel, pinching the tyre in with your fingers
    to check that there is no tube trapped beneath the rim. If you
    have trapped the tube, deduct ten marks and go back to step one.
    Otherwise ....

11) Replace wheel and reinflate.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.16  More Flats on Rear Tires
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Most sharp obstacles, except tetrahedral glass slivers and puncture vine,
more often get stuck in the rear tire than in the front tire.  The reason
is that the front tire upsets the sharp object just in time for the rear
tire to catch it head-on.

This front to rear effect is also true for motor vehicles.  Nails lying
on the road seldom enter front tires.  When dropped on the road by a
moving vehicle, the nail slides down the road aligning itself pointing
toward traffic because it tends to roll around until it is head first.
The tire rolls over it and tilts it up so that if the speed is ideal,
the rear tire catches it upright.  I once got a flat from a one inch
diameter steel washer that the rear tire struck on edge after the front
tire flipped it up.

When it is wet glass can stick to the tire even in the flat orientation
and thereby get a second chance when it comes around again.  To add to
this feature, glass cuts far more easily when wet as those who have cut
rubber tubing in chemistry class may remember.  A wet razor blade cuts
latex rubber tubing in a single slice while a dry blade only makes a
nick.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.17  What holds the rim off the ground?
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> What forces keep the rim of a wheel with pneumatic tires off the
> ground. It obviously can't be the air pressure because that's acting
> from top as well as from below.

As has been pointed out, the casing walls pull on the rim (or its
equivalent) and thereby support the load.  The casing leaves the rim
at about a 45 degree angle, and being essentially a circular cross
section, it is in contact with the rim over its inner quarter circle.
At least this is a good representative model.  The visualization may
be simpler if a tubular tire is considered.  It makes no difference
whether the tire is held on by glue or is otherwise attaches to the
rim such as a clincher is.  Either way the tire is attached to the
rim, a relatively rigid structure.

Under load, in the ground contact zone, the tire bulges so that two
effects reduce the downward pull (increase the net upward force) of
the casing.  First, the most obvious one is that the casing pulls more
to the sides than downward (than it did in its unloaded condition);
the second is that the side wall tension is reduced.  The reduction
arises from the relationship that unit casing tension is equivalent to
inflation pressure times the radius of curvature divided by pi.  As
the curvature reduces when the tire bulges out, the casing tension
decreases correspondingly.  The inflated tire supports the rim
primarily by these two effects.

Tire pressure changes imperceptibly when the tire is loaded because
the volume does not change appreciably.  Besides, the volume change is
insignificant in small in comparison to the volume change the air has
undergone when being compressed into the tire.  In that respect, it
takes several strokes of a frame pump to increase the pressure of a
tire from 100 psi to 101.  The air has a low spring constant that acts
like a long soft spring that has been preloaded over a long stroke.
Small deflections do not change its force materially.  For convenience
car and truck tires are regularly inflated to their proper pressure
before being mounted on the vehicle.

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part3

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 8.18  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

There are several kinds of dark coatings sold on rims.  Each suggests that
added strength is achieved by this surface treatment while in fact no useful
effects other than aesthetic results are achieved.  The colored rims just
cost more as do the cosmetically anodized ones.  The hard anodized rims do
not get stronger even though they have a hard crust.  The anodized crust is
brittle and porous and crazes around spoke holes when the sockets are riveted
into the rim.  These cracks grow and ultimately cause break-outs if the
wheel is subjected to moderate loads over time.

There is substantial data on this and shops like Wheelsmith, that build many
wheels, can tell you that for instance, no MA-2 rims have cracked while MA-40
rims fail often.  These are otherwise identical rims.

Hard anodizing is also a thermal and electrical insulator.  Because heat is
generated in the brake pads and not the rim, braking energy must cross the
interface to be dissipated in the rim.  Anodizing, although relatively thin,
impedes this heat transfer and reduces braking efficiency by overheating the
brake pad surfaces.  Fortunately, in wet weather, road grit wears off the
sidewall anodizing and leaves a messy looking rim with better braking.

Anodizing has nothing to do with heat treatment and does not strengthen rims.
To make up for that, it costs more.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.19  Reusing Spokes
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

>I just bent my wheel and am probably going to need a new one
>built.  Can I reuse my old, 3 months, spokes in the new wheel.
>The guy at the shop gave me some mumbo jumbo about tensioning or
>something.

There is no reason why you should not reuse the spokes of your
relatively new wheel.  The reason a bike shop would not choose to do
this is that they do not know the history of your spokes and do not
want to risk their work on unknown materials.  If you are satisfied
that the spokes are good quality you should definitely use them for
you new wheel.  The spokes should, however, not be removed from the
hub because they have all taken a set peculiar to their location, be
that inside or outside spokes.  The elbows of outside spokes, for
instance, have an acute angle while the inside spokes are obtuse.

There are a few restrictions to this method, such as that new rim
must have the same effective diameter as the old, or the spokes will
be the wrong length.  The rim should also be the same "handedness"
so that the rim holes are offset in the correct direction.  This is
not a fatal problem because you can advance the rim one hole so that
there is a match.  The only problem is that the stem will not fall
between parallel spokes as it should for pumping convenience.

Take a cotton swab and dab a little oil in each spoke socket of the
new rim before you begin.  Hold the rims side by side so that the
stem holes are aligned and note whether the rim holes are staggered
in the same way.  If not line the rim up so they are.  Then unscrew
one spoke at a time, put a wipe of oil on the threads and engage it
in the new rim.  When they are all in the new rim you proceed as you
would truing any wheel.  Details of this are in a good book on
building wheels.

The reason you can reuse spokes is that their failure mode is
fatigue.  There is no other way of causing a fatigue failure than to
ride many thousand miles (if your wheel is properly built).  A crash
does not induce fatigue nor does it even raise tension in spokes
unless you get a pedal between them.  Unless a spoke has a kink that
cannot be straightened by hand, they can all be reused.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.20  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
From: F.J. Brown <[e-mail]>

[e-mail] gave some useful hints on mounting clinchers,
mostly involving the use of copious quantities of baby powder, and
trying to convince me that clinchers aren't difficult to mount, so ease of
mounting isn't a valid reason for preferring tubulars.

[e-mail] wrote that although average tubulars ride
'nicer' than average clinchers, there are some clinchers around that ride
just as 'nice'.   He also said that ease of change isn't a good reason for
preferring tubulars as if you flat in a race, you're either going to swap
a wheel or drop out.   He pointed out that tubulars end up costing $20 -
$80 per flat.

[e-mail] gave some of the historic reasons that tubulars were
preferred: higher pressures, lower weight, stronger, lighter rims.   Said
that only a few of these still hold true (rim strength/weight, total weight),
but he still prefers the 'feel' of tubulars.

[e-mail] started this thread with his observations on
clinchers seperated from their rims in the aftermath of a race crash.

[e-mail] comments on improperly-glued tubulars posing a threat
to other racers by rolling off, and noted that this couldn't happen with
clinchers.

[e-mail] agreed with stek, with the additional note that
it is inadequate inflation that often allows tubulars to roll.

Kevin at Buffalo agreed with stek and jobst about tubulars (improperly or
freshly glued) sometimes rolling.

[e-mail] says he uses clinchers for cost and convenience.
Clinchers let him carry around a tiny patch kit and some tyre irons, costing
60c, whereas tubulars would require him to carry a whole tyre, and would
cost more.

CONCLUSIONS: THE CLINCHER VS. TUBULAR WAR
Tubulars - used to be capable of taking higher pressures, had lower weight
           and mounted onto stronger, lighter rims than clinchers.   Clinchers
           have now largely caught up, but many cyclists thinking hasn't.
           Tubular tyre + rim combination still lighter and stronger.
         - are easier to change than clinchers.   This matters more to some
           people than others - triathletes, mechanical morons and those
           riding in unsupported races.
         - cost megabucks if you replace them every time you puncture.
           ***However*** (and none of the North Americans mentioned this)
           down here in Kiwiland, we ***always*** repair our punctured
           tubulars (unless the casing is cut to ribbons).   The process
           doesn't take much imagination, you just unstitch the case, repair
           the tube in the normal manner using the thinnest patches you can
           buy, stitch it back up again and (the secret to success) put a
           drop of Superglue over the hole in the tread.
         - can roll off if improperly glued or inflated.   In this case, you
           probably deserve what you get.   Unfortunately, the riders behind
           you don't.

Clinchers - can be difficult to change (for mechanical morons) and are always
            slower to change than tubulars.   Most people still carry a spare
            tube and do their repairs when they get home.
          - are cheaper to run: if you puncture a lot clinchers will probably
            still save you money over tubulars, even if you repair your
            tubulars whenever possible.   Tubulars are only repairable most
            of the time, you virtually never write off a clincher casing due
            to a puncture.
          - have improved immensely in recent years; top models now inflate
            to high pressures, and are lighter and stronger than they used
            to be.   Likewise clincher rims.   Some debate over whether
            tubulars are still lighter and tubular rims stronger.   Probably
            depends on quality you select.   No doubt that high quality
            clinchers/rims stronger, lighter and mor dependable than cheap
            tubular/rim combination.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.21  Presta Valve Nuts
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Two points here:

1. The jamb nut holds the stem when pumping so that it does not recede
   into the rim when pressing the pump head against the tire.  This is
   especially useful when the tire is flat (after installing the
   tube).  It also keeps the stem from wiggling around while pumping.
   Removing the nut should present no difficulty unless the threads
   have been damaged or the hands are cold.  The cold may present a
   problem, but then just opening the valve nut on a Presta valve
   under such conditions.

2. Breaking off stems with a frame pump comes from pumping
   incorrectly.  The number of new tubes with broken stems lying along
   the road proves that this occurs far too often.  To avoid breaking
   the stem, the pump head should be be held in the fist so that the
   pumping force goes from one hand into the other, not from the pump
   into the valve stem.  To practice the correct action, hold the pump
   head in one hand with the thumb over the outlet, and pump
   vigorously letting out no air.  All the force goes from one hand
   into the other.  This is essentially what should take place when
   inflating a tire.

   It does no good to "get even" with the stupid tube by discarding it
   on the road for all to see.  Most riders understand how to pump a
   tire and see this only as evidence of incompetence rather than a
   faulty tube.  Besides, this ostentatious behavior constitutes
   littering for which the the fine is $1000 in California.  Bike
   shops should instruct new bike owners about the use of the frame
   pump.  Along with this there should be some tire patch hints like
   don't try to ride a freshly patched tube, carry a spare tube and
   always use the spare after patching the punctured tube.  Of course
   this is a whole subject in itself that should be treated under its
   own heading.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.22  Ideal Tire Sizes
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> I'm getting a custom frame built and wondered what
> people thought of using 26 inch road wheels.  Smaller
> wheels ought to be lighter and stronger.

and goes on to list advantages and disadvantages, most of which are less
that important in deciding what size to use.  What in fact brought us
the wheel size (700 or 27") that we have is better understood by the
women riders who have a hard time fitting these wheels into their small
bicycle frames.  Wheels would be larger than they are if they would fit
the average riders bike, but they don't.  So the compromise size is what
we are riding today.

> It seems to me that the most obvious reason for using 27"
> wheels is tradition, but I'm not sure the advantages make
> it worth trying to swim upstream.  What do you think?

This line of thought is consistent with the "cost be damned" approach
in bicycling today.  The big bucks are spent by people who want the best
or even better than their peers.  The more special the better.  Riders
consistently spend nearly twice the money for wheels and get worse rims
when they choose anodized ones, whether there is merit to this finish
is of no interest.  They cost more so they must be better.  How "custom"
can you get than to have wheels no one else on the block has (maybe 25"?).

If enough riders ask for 24", 25" and 26" wheels, manufacturers will up
the price as their product lines multiply and the total sales remain
constant.  Tires and spokes will follow as a whole range of sizes that
were not previously stocked become part of the inventory.  Meanwhile,
bike frames will come in different configurations to take advantage of
the special wheel sizes.  SIzes whose advantages are imperceptibly small
but are touted by riders who talk of seconds saved in their last club TT
or while riding to work.

A larger wheel rides better on average roads and always corners better
because it brings a longer contact patch to the road.  A longer contact
averages traction over more pavement and avoids slip outs for lack of
local traction.  Visualize crossing a one inch wide glossy paint stripe
with a 27" wheel and an 18" wheel when banked over in a wet turn.

I see this subject arise now and then and it reminds me of the concept of
splitting wreck.bike into several newsgroups.  The perpetrators bring the
matter up for many of the wrong reasons.

Ride bike, don't re-invent what has been discarded.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.23  Indexed Steering
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> In the several years I spent working in a pro shop, I have never seen a
> case of "index steering" (yes, we called it that) that was _not_ caused
> by a "brinelled" headset - one with divots in the races.  I am 99.999
> percent certain that that is your problem.  What are you going to do if
> you don't fix it?  I suggest that you fix the headset even if you sell
> the bike, as a damaged headset could be grounds for a lawsuit if the
> buyer crashes.

I disagree on two points.  First, because the use of the term brinelling
conveys a notion as incorrect as the phrase "my chain stretched from
climbing steep hills" and second, because there is no possibility of
injury or damage from an "indexed" head bearing.

Damage to the head bearings seems to be twofold in this case because the
steering, if properly adjusted, only gets looser from dimpled bearings and
would not become arrested by the dimples.  So the head was adjusted too
tight or it got tighter inadvertently.  However, dimpling is caused by
lubrication failure and occurs while riding straight ahead.  This condition
is worsened by a tight bearing while a loose bearing would introduce more
lubricant if it were to rattle.

If you believe it comes from hammering the balls into the races, I suggest
you try to cause some dimples by hammering with a hammer onto the underside
of the fork crown of a clunker bike of your choice.  Those who pounded in
cotters on cottered cranks will recall no such dimpling on the BB axle and
even though this is a far smaller bearing race than a head bearing and the
blows are more severe and direct, no dimples were made.

Ball bearings make metal-to-metal contact only when subjected to fretting loads
(microscopic oscillations) while in the same position, as in riding straight
ahead on a conventional road.  If you watch your front axle while rolling
down the road at 20+ mph you will notice that the fork ends vibrate fore and
aft.  This motion arises not at the blade tips but at the fork crown and
articulates the head bearing in fretting motions that are not in the normal
direction of bearing rotation.  Any substantial steering motion replenishes
lubrication from adjoining areas.

Lubrication failure from fretting causes welding between the balls and
races and these tiny weld spots tear out repeatedly.  The result is that at
the front and rear of the races elliptical milky dimples occur.  Were these
brinelling (embossed through force) they would be shiny and round.  Various
testimonials for the durability of one bearing over another may be based on
good experience, however, the differences in most of these was not in the
design of the bearing but rather the type of lubricant used.  A ball bearing
is not suitable for this use.  This is in spite of their use in almost all
bicycles.

To reduce point loads and to protect the rolling elements from fretting
motion, roller bearing head bearings have been built.  In these the rotary
motion is taken up in needle bearings on conical races and the fork
articulation is absorbed by an approximation of a spherical cup (the steel
race) against the aluminum housing.  Both of these bearings are ideally
loaded.  The rollers all remain in contact and carry rotary motion while
the plain spherical bearing remains in full contact carrying low pressure
fore and aft motion.

I am disappointed that roller bearings until now have not been suitably
perfected to rid us of the age old bearing failure.  Maybe some day soon
Sun Tour, Campagnolo, Shimano or Stronglight will emerge with an easily
adjustable and fully compatible bearing.  The one I am using is durable but
not easily adjusted and it has too great a stack height to qualify for a
recommended replacement.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.24  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Sidepull (one central pivot) brakes operate at a small angle to the
rim.  That means the pad moves in a nearly perpendicular direction to
the braking surface and the pads can be completely worn down without
adjusting their position.  The unit is light and has a self contained
quick release and cable adjustment feature.

Its weakness is its thin arms that, in the pursuit of light weight,
flex in the bending direction.  With the current practice to minimize
tire clearance on road bicycles, sidepull brakes cannot be used off
road for lack of dirt clearance.  Their return spring is anchored in a
way that relative motion occurs between it and the brake arms.  This
motion demands lubrication and in its absence the brake does not
center itself.  This is a perpetual problem that has not been solved
and has given rise to many designs, the latest of which is the Shimano
dual pivot brake.  This brake has the disadvantage that it cannot
track a wobbly wheel because it is forced to be centered.

The cantilever and centerpull brakes are inversions of the same
design.  Both have pivot points that are at 45 degrees to the brake
surface, but the centerpull offers no advantage over sidepulls because
it has all the same problems and not the advantages.  In contrast the
cantilever is the most rigid of available brakes and offers more tire
clearance for off road use.

The approach angel moves the brake pads in an undesirable direction so
that as the pad wears it must be adjusted to prevent falling off the
rim.  With wear, the centerpull goes into the tire while the
cantilever allows the pad to pop under the rim, never to return.
Cantilever brakes have the additional problem that their reaction
force spreads the forks.  For this reason, U shaped stress plates are
made to contain this force.  For forks with telescopic suspension,
braking restricts forks motion.

Nearly all bicycle brakes have about the same mechanical advantage
(4:1) that arises primarily in the hand lever.  The "calipers" all
approximate a 1:1 ratio.  This is necessary to fit the reach of the
average hand and the strength of the hand in proportion to body
weight.  That is to say all brakes are made to about the same human
specification.  Force and motion are a trade-off and this is the
result.

The Campagnolo Delta and Modolo Chronos brakes have a variable ratio
that at the extremes ranges from infinity to zero, its motion being
generated by an equilateral parallelogram that changes from one
extreme to the other.  This is an undesirable feature, especially as
the pads wear and braking takes place in the zone of increased lever
travel and increased mechanical advantage.  The brake bottoms out
abruptly.

Servo activation on cantilever brakes has been offered in a design that
uses the forward thrust on the brake post to add force to the
application.  Self servo effects are undesirable in brakes because the
proportionality between braking and hand force is lost.  You don't
know how much braking you will get for a given hand lever force.  It
can vary widely and in some circumstances cause an unwanted skid.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.25  Seat adjustments
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

     The following method of setting saddle height is not the
only method around for setting your saddle height but it is the
most popular among coaches and riders both here and in Europe.

     A) Adjust saddle level or very slightly nose up, no more
        than 2mm at the nose.
     B) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Have wrench ready
        (usually a 5mm Allen).
     C) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a
        wall. Hold the brake on with one hand (or mount the bike
        on a turbo trainer if you have one).
     D) Place your HEELS on the pedals, opposite the clip, pedal
        backwards at 30+ rpm without rocking your pelvis (very
        important).
     E) Adjust seat height so that there is about:
      1) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders
         (-50 mi/wk.),
      2) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders
         (50+ mi./wk.),
      3) ONE TO TWO CM. for endurance cyclists (250+ mi./wk.),
         between your heel and the pedal. If your soles are
         thicker at the cleat than at the heel adjust accordingly.
        Don't forget to grease the seat post.
     F) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the
        feel and possibly stretch the hamstrings and Achilles
        slightly.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.26  Cleat adjustments
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

[Ed note:  You may also want to consider going to a bike shop that does
Fit Kit and have them do the Fit Kit RAD to adjust your cleats.  Many
people recommend it.]

     A) Grease the cleat bolts and lightly tighten.
     B) Sitting on the bike, put your feet in the pedals and
        adjust until:
     B1) The ball of your foot is directly above or, more
         commonly, slightly behind the pedal axle and:
     B2) There is approximately 1 cm. (1/2in.) between your ankle
         and the crank arm.
     C) Tighten the cleat bolts 80% and go out for a ride.
        If another position feels more comfortable rotate
        your foot into that position.
     D) Carefully remove your shoes from the pedals and tighten
        the bolts fully. If you cannot get out of the pedals
        without shifting the cleats leave your shoes on the bike
        and draw an outline around the cleat.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.27  SIS Adjustment Procedure
From: Bob Fishell <[e-mail]>

Shimano's instructions for adjusting SIS drivetrains varies from series
to series.  The following method, however, works for each of mine (600EX,
105, and Deore').  [Ed note:  Works on Exage road and mtb also.]

Your chain and cogs must be in good shape, and the cable must be free
of kinks, slips,  and binds.  The outer cable should have a liner.
clean and lubricate all points where the cable contacts anything.

SIS adjustment:

1) Shift the chain onto the largest chainwheel and the smallest cog,
   e.g., 52 and 13.

2) WITHOUT TURNING THE CRANKS, move the shift lever back until it
   clicks, and LET GO.  This is the trick to adjusting SIS.

3) Turn the crank.  If the chain does not move crisply onto the next
   inside cog, shift it back where you started, turn the SIS barrel
   adjuster (on the back of the rear derailleur) one-half turn CCW,
   and go back to step 2.  Repeat for each pair of cogs in turn
   until you can downshift through the entire range of the large
   chainwheel gears without the chain hesitating.  If you have just
   installed or reinstalled a shift cable, you may need to do this
   several times.

4) Move the chain to the small chainring (middle on a triple) and the
   largest cog.

5) turn the cranks and upshift.  If the chain does not move crisply
   from the first to the second cog, turn the SIS barrel adjuster
   one-quarter turn CW.

If the drivetrain cannot be tuned to noiseless and trouble-free
SIS operation by this method, you may have worn cogs, worn chain,
or a worn, damaged, or obstructed shift cable.  Replace as needed
and repeat the adjustment.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.28  Where to buy tools

You can buy tools from many sources.  Some tools can be purchased at
your local hardware store (wrenches, socket sets, etc), while the
special bike tools can be purchased from your local bike store or
one of the mail order stores listed elsewhere.

You can buy every tool you think looks useful, or just buy the tools
you need for a particular repair job.  Buying the tools as you need
them will let you build up a nice tool set over time without having
to drop a lot of money at once.

Some common tools you will need are:

  Metric/SAE wrenches for nuts and bolts (or an assortment of adjustable
    wrenches).
  Screwdrivers, both flat and phillips.
  Metric allen wrenches.
  Pliers.
  Wood or rubber mallet for loosening bolts.

Special tools and their uses:

  Cone wrenches to adjust the hub cones.
  Chain tool to take the chain apart for cleaning and lubrication, and
    to put it back together.
  Tire irons for removing tires.
  Spoke wrenches for adjusting spokes.
  Cable cutters for cutting cables (don't use diagonal pliers!).
  Crankarm tools for removing crankarms.
  Bottom bracket tools for adjusting bottom brackets.
  Headset wrenches to adjust the large headset nut.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.29  Workstands

There are a variety of workstands available, from about $30 to over
$130.  Look at the mail order catalogs for photos showing the different
types.  The type with a clamp that holds one of the tubes on the bike
are the nicest and easy to use.  Park has a couple of models, and their
clamp is the lever type (pull the lever to lock the clamp).  Blackburn
and Performance have the screw type clamp (screw the clamp shut on the
tube.

If you have a low budget, you can use two pieces of rope hanging from
the ceiling with rubber coated hooks on the end - just hang the bike
by the top tube.  This is not as steady as a workstand, but will do
an adequate job.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.30  Workstands 2
From: Douglas B. Meade <[e-mail]>

    >>>>>>>>>>      BICYCLE REPAIR STAND SUMMARY      <<<<<<<<<<

The Park PRS6 was recommended by several (>5) responders; all
other models were recommended by no more than one responder.

    Park PRS6
        PROS:    full 360\degree rotation
            spring-loaded clamp is adjustable
            very stable
        CONS:    not height adjustable
            not easy to transport
            clamp probably can't work with fat-tubed mtn bike
        COST:    ~$150
        SOURCE:    catalogs, local bike shops

    Park Consumer
        PROS:    foldable
            convenient
            portable
        CONS:    not as stable as PRS6
        COST:    ~$100
        SOURCE:    catalogs, local bike shops

    Park BenchMount
        PROS:    stronger, and more stable, than many floor models
        CONS:    must have a workbench with room to mount the stand
        COST:    $???
        SOURCE:    ???

    Blackburn
        PROS:    The stand folds flat and is portable.
            It has a 360 degree rotating clamp.
            It is relatively stable.
        CONS:    crank-down clamp does not seem to be durable
            crank bolt is not standard size; difficult to replace
            hard to get clamp tight enough for stable use
            clamp scratchs paint/finish
            problems getting rotating mechanism to work properly
        COST:    ~$100
        SOURCE:    catalogs, local bike shops

    Performance
        PROS:
        CONS:    not too stable

    Ultimate Repair Stand
        PROS:    excellent quality
            includes truing stand
            includes carrying bag
        CONS:
        COST:    ~$225
        SOURCE:    order through local bike shop
            the U.S. address for Ultimate Support Systems is :
                Ultimate Support Systems
                2506 Zurich Dr.
                P.O. Box 470
                Fort Collins, CO. 80522-4700
                Phone [phone]

I also received three homemade designs. The first is quite simple:

    hang the bike from coated screw hooks
        (available in a hardware store for less that $5/pair)

The others are more sophisticated. Here are the descriptions provided
by the designers of the systems.

Dan Dixon <[e-mail]> describes a modification
of the Yakima Quickstand attachment into a freestanding workstand

    I picked up the Yakama clamp and my local Bike shop for
    around $25.  What you get is the clamp and a long carraige
    bolt with a big (5") wing nut. This is meant to be attached
    to their floor stand or their roof racks. The roof rack
    attachment is ~$60; expensive, but great for road trips.

    I, instead, bought a longer carraige bolt, a piece of
    3/4" threaded lead pipe, two floor flanges, and some 2x4's.
    (about $10 worth of stuff).

    You say you want to attach it to a bench (which should be easy)

                                      pipe
                      +- clamp        |            wing nut
                      |               |            |
                      V               |      +--+  V
                 | |---------+        V      |  |   O
                 | |         | |\_________/| |  |  /
                 | |   -O-   |=| _________ |=|  |==I
                 | |         | |/         \| |  |  \
                 | |---------+               |  |   O
                                             |  |
                                /\       /\  |  |<-2x4
                                |         |  |  |
                       flanges--+---------+  |  |
                                             |  |

    Excuse the artwork, but it might give you and Idea about
    what I mean. You could just nail the 2x4 to the bench or
    something. I really like the clamp because it is totally
    adjustable for different size tubes.

Eric Schweitzer <[e-mail]> prefers the following
set-up to the Park `Professional' stands that he also has.

    My favorite 'stand', one I used for many years, one that I
    would use now if my choice of stand were mine, is made very
    cheaply from old seats and bicycle chain. Two seats (preferably
    cheap plastic shelled seats) (oh...they must have one wire
    bent around at the front to form the seat rails...most seats
    do) have the rails removed and bent to form 'hooks'. The
    'right' kind of hooks are placed in a good spot on the ceiling
    about 5 or 6 feet apart. (really, a bit longer than the length
    of a 'typical' bike from hub to hub. If you do a lot of tandems
    or LWB recombants, try longer :) Form a loop in one end of the
    chain by passing a thin bolt through the opening between 'outer'
    plates in two spots on the chain. (of course, this forms a loop
    in the chain, not the bolt). The same is done at the other end
    to form loops to hold the seat rail/hooks. First, form the hooks
    so they form a pair of Js, about 2 inch 'hook's The hook for the
    front of the bike is padded, the one for the rear looped through
    the chain, squeezed together to a single hook, and padded.

    To use, hook the rear hook under the seat, or at the seat stays.
    Hook the front with each arm on oposite sides of the stem. Can
    also hook to head tube (when doing forks). Either hook can grab
    a rim to hold a wheel in place while tightening a quick release
    skewer or axle bolt. There is no restricted access to the left
    side of the bike. I try to get the BB of a 'typical' frame about
    waist height.

In closing, here is a general statement that only makes my decision
more difficult:

    My best advice is to consider a workstand a long term durable good.
    Spend the money for solid construction. Good stands don't wear or
    break, and will always be good stands until the day you die, at
    which point they will be good stands for your children. Cheese will
    always be cheese until it breaks.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.31  Frame Stiffness
From: Bob Bundy <[e-mail]>

As many of you rec.bicycles readers are aware, there have been occasional,
sometimes acrimonious, discussions about how some frames are so much
stiffer than others.  Cannondale frames seem to take most of the abuse.
The litany of complaints about some bike frames is long and includes
excessive wheel hop, numb hands, unpleasant ride, broken spokes,
pitted headsets, etc.  I was complaining to a friend of mine about how there
was so much ranting and raving but so little empirical data - to which
he replied, "Why don't you stop complaining and do the measurements
yourself?".  To that, I emitted the fateful words, "Why not, after all,
how hard can it be?".  Following some consultation with Jobst and a few
other friends, I ran the following tests:

The following data were collected by measuring the vertical deflection at
the seat (ST), bottom bracket (BB) and head tube (HT) as a result of
applying 80lb of vertical force.  The relative contributions of the
tires, wheels, fork, and frame (the diamond portion) were measured using
a set of jigs and a dial indicator which was read to the nearest .001
inch.  For some of the measures, I applied pressures from 20 to 270 lbs
to check for any significant nonlinearity.  None was observed.  The same
set of tires (Continentals) and wheels were used for all measurements.
Note that these were measures of in-plane stiffness, which should be
related to ride comfort, and not tortional stiffness which is something
else entirely.

Bikes:

TA - 1987 Trek Aluminum 1200, this model has a Vitus front fork, most
     reviews describe this as being an exceptionally smooth riding bike

SS - 1988 Specialized Sirus, steel CrMo frame, described by one review as
     being stiff, hard riding and responsive

DR - 1987 DeRosa, SP/SL tubing, classic Italian road bike

RM - 1988 Cannondale aluminum frame with a CrMo fork, some reviewers
      could not tolerate the rough ride of this bike


               TA              SS              DR              RM
           ----------      ----------      ----------      ----------
       ST  BB  HT      ST  BB  HT      ST  BB  HS      ST  BB  HT
diamond        1   1   0       2   2   0       2   2   0       1   1   0
fork        3  11  45       3   9  36       4  13  55       3  10  40
wheels      2   2   2       2   2   2       2   2   2       2   2   2
tires      68  52  66      68  52  66      68  52  66      68  52  66
total      74  66 113      75  65 104      76  69 123      74  65 108


What is going on here?  I read the bike mags and this net enough to know
that people have strong impressions about the things that affect ride
comfort.  For example, it is common to hear people talk about rim types
(aero vs. non-aero), spoke size, butting and spoke patterns and how they
affect ride.  Yet the data presented here indicate, just a Jobst predicted,
that any variation in these factors will essentially be undetectable to
the rider.  Similarly, one hears the same kind of talk about frames,
namely, that frame material X gives a better ride than frame material Y, that
butted tubing gives a better ride that non-butted, etc.  (I may have even
made such statements myself at some time.)  Yet, again, the data suggest
that these differences are small and, perhaps, even undetectable.  I offer
two explanations for this variation between the data and subjective reports
of ride quality.

Engineering:
These data are all static measurements and perhaps only applicable at the
end of the frequency spectrum.  Factors such as frequency response, and
damping might be significant factors in rider comfort.

Psychology:
There is no doubt that these bikes all look very different, especially the
Cannondale.  They even sound different while riding over rough
roads.  These factors, along with the impressions of friends and reviews
in bike magazines may lead us to perceive differences where they, in fact,
do not exist.

Being a psychologist, I am naturally inclined toward the psychological
explanation.  I just can't see how the diamond part of the frame contributes
in any significant way to the comfort of a bike.  The damping of the frame
should be irrelevant since it doesn't flex enough that there is any
motion to actually dampen.  That the frame would become flexible at
some important range of the frequency spectrum doesn't seem likely either.

On the other hand, there is plenty of evidence that people are often very
poor judges of their physical environment.  They often see relationships
where they don't exist and mis-attribute other relationships.  For example,
peoples' judgement of ride quality in automobiles is more related to the
sounds inside the automobile than the ride itself.  The only way to get
a good correlation between accelerometers attached to the car seat and
the rider's estimates of ride quality is to blindfold and deafen the
rider (not permanently!).  This is only one of many examples of mis-
attribution.  The role of expectation is even more powerful.  (Some even
claim that whole areas of medicine are built around it - but that is
another story entirely.)   People hear that Cannondales are stiff and,
let's face it, they certainly *look* stiff.  Add to that the fact that
Cannondales sound different while going over rough roads and perhaps
the rider has an auditory confirmation of what is already believed to
be true.

Unless anyone can come up with a better explanation, I will remain
convinced that differences in ride quality among frames are more a
matter of perception than of actual physical differences.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.32  Frame materials

[Ed note: I got this information from some of the books I have.  People
in the know are welcome to update this.]

There are several materials that are used to make bicycle frames.  They
are:

  Mild steel - usually used in cheap department store bikes.  Frames
               made from mild steel are heavy.

  High carbon steel - a higher quality material used in low end bikes.
               Reynolds 500 is an example.

  Steel alloy - lighter and better riding than high-carbon frames.  Reynolds
               501 and Tange Mangaloy are examples.

  Chro-moly -  also called chrome-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum steel.
               One of the finest alloys for bike frames.  Reynolds 531 and
               Columbus SL and SP are some of the best known brands.

  Carbon fiber - high tech stuff.  Made from space-age materials, frames
               made of this are very light and strong.  Some problems
               have been seen in the connections between the tubes and
               bottom bracket, etc.

  Aluminum -   Light frames, usually with larger diameter tubes.
               Cannondale is a well-known brand.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.33  Bike pulls to one side
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

For less than million dollar bikes this is easy to fix, whether it corrects
the cause or not.  If a bike veers to one side when ridden no-hands, it
can be corrected by bending the forks to the same side as you must lean
to ride straight.  This is done by bending the fork blades one at a time,
about 3 mm.  If more correction is needed, repeat the exercise.

The problem is usually in the forks although it is possible for frame
misalignment to cause this effect.  The kind of frame alignment error
that causes this is a head and seat tube not in the same plane.  This
is not easily measured other than by sighting or on a plane table.
The trouble with forks is that they are more difficult to measure even
though shops will not admit it.  It takes good fixturing to align a
fork because a short fork blade can escape detection by most
measurement methods.  Meanwhile lateral and in-line corrections may
seem to produce a straight fork that still pulls to one side.
However, the crude guy who uses the method I outlined above will make
the bike ride straight without measurement.  The only problem with
this is that the bike may pull to one side when braking because the
fork really isn't straight but is compensated for lateral balance.

This problem has mystified more bike shops because they did not recognize
the problem.  Sequentially brazing or welding fork blades often causes
unequal length blades and bike shops usually don't question this dimension.
However, in your case I assume the bike once rode straight so something
is crooked

------------------------------

Subject: 8.34  Frame repair
From: David Keppel <[e-mail]>

(Disclaimer: my opinions do creep in from time to time!)

When frames fail due to manufacturing defects they are usually
replaced under warranty.  When they fail due to accident or abuse
(gee, I don't know *why* it broke when I rode off that last
motorcycle jump, it's never broken when I rode it off it before!)
you are left with a crippled or unridable bike.

There are various kinds of frame damage that can be repaired.  The
major issues are (a) figuring out whether it's repairable (b) who
can do it and (c) whether it's worth doing (sometimes repairs just
aren't worth it).

Kinds of repairs: Bent or cracked frame tubes, failed joints, bent
or missing braze-on brackets, bent derailleur hangars, bent or
broken brake mounts, bent forks, etc.  A frame can also be bent out
of alignment without any visible damage; try sighting from the back
wheel to the front, and if the front wheel hits the ground to one
side of the back wheel's plane (when the front wheel is pointing
straight ahead), then the frame is probably out of alignment.


* Can it be repaired?

Just about any damage to a steel frame can be repaired.  Almost any
damage to an aluminum or carbon fiber frame is impossible to repair.
Titanium frames can be repaired but only by the gods.  Some frames
are composites of steel and other materials (e.g., the Raleigh
Technium).  Sometimes damage to steel parts cannot be repaired
because repairs would affect the non-steel parts.

Owners of non-steel frames can take heart: non-steel frames can
resist some kinds of damage more effectively than steel frames, and
may thus be less likely to be damaged.  Some frames come with e.g.,
replacable derailleur hangers (whether you can *get* a replacement
is a different issue, though).  Also, many non-steel frames have
steel forks and any part of a steel fork can be repaired.

Note: For metal frames, minor dents away from joints can generally
be ignored.  Deep gouges, nicks, and cuts in any frame may lead to
eventual failure.  With steel, the failure is generally gradual.
With aluminum the failure is sometimes sudden.

Summary: if it is steel, yes it can be repaired.  If it isn't steel,
no, it can't be repaired.


* Who can do it?

Bent derailleur hangers can be straightened.  Indexed shifting
systems are far more sensitive to alignment than non-indexed.  Clamp
an adjustable wrench over the bent hanger and yield the hanger
gently.  Leave the wheel bolted in place so that the derailleur hanger
is bent and not the back of the dropout.  Go slowly and try not to
overshoot.  The goal is to have the face of the hanger in-plane with
the bike's plane of symmetry.

Just about any other repair requires the help of a shop that builds
frames since few other shops invest in frame tools.  If you can find
a shop that's been around for a while, though, they may also have
some frame tools.


* Is it worth it?

The price of the repair should be balanced with

 * The value of the bicycle
 * What happens if you don't do anything about the damage
 * What would a new bike cost
 * What would a new frame cost
 * What would a used bike cost
 * What would a used frame cost
 * What is the personal attachment

If you are sentimentally attached to a frame, then almost any repair
is worth it.  If you are not particularly attached to the frame,
then you should evaluate the condition of the components on the rest
of the bicycle.  It may be cheaper to purchase a new or used frame
or even purchase a whole used bike and select the best components
from each.  For example, my most recent reconstruction looked like:

 * Bike's estimated value: $300
 * Do nothing about damage: unridable
 * Cost of new bike: $400
 * Cost of new frame: $250+
 * Cost of used bike: $200+
 * Cost of used frame: N/A
 * Cost of repair: $100+
 * Personal attachment: zip

Getting the bike on the road again was not a big deal: I have lots
of other bikes, but I *wanted* to have a commuter bike.  Since I
didn't *need* it, though, I could afford to wait a long time for
repairs.  The cost of a new bike was more than I cared to spend.
It is hard to get a replacement frame for a low-cost bicycle.  I
did a good bit of shopping around and the lowest-cost new frame
that I could find was $250, save a low-quality frame in the
bargain basement that I didn't want.  Used frames were basically the
same story: people generally only sell frames when they are
high-quality frames.  Because the bike was a road bike, I could have
purchased a used bike fairly cheaply; had the bike been a fat-tire
bike, it would have been difficult to find a replacement.  The cost
of the frame repair included only a quick ``rattlecan'' spray, so
the result was aesthetically unappealing and also more fragile.  For
a commuter bike, though, aesthetics are secondary, so I went with
repair.

There is also a risk that the `fixed' frame will be damaged.  I had
a frame crack when it was straightened.  I could have had the tube
replaced, but at much greater expense.  The shop had made a point
that the frame was damaged enough that it might crack during repair
and charged me 1/2.  I was able to have the crack repaired and I
still ride the bike, but could have been left both out the money
and without a ridable frame.


* Summary

Damaged steel frames can always be repaired, but if the damage is
severe, be sure to check your other options.  If the bicycle isn't
steel, then it probably can't be repaired.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.35  Frame Fatigue
From: John Unger <[e-mail]>

I think that some of the confusion (and heat...) on this subject
arises because people misunderstand the term fatigue and equate it
with some sort of "work hardening" phenomena.

By definition, metal fatigue and subsequent fatique failure are
well-studied phenomena that occur when metal (steel, aluminum,
etc.) is subjected to repeated stresses within the _elastic_ range
of its deformation. Elastic deformation is defined as deformation
that results in no permanent change in shape after the stess is
removed. Example: your forks "flexing" as the bike rolls over a
cobblestone street.

    (an aside... The big difference between steel and aluminum
    as a material for bicycles or anything similar is that you
    can design the tubes in a steel frame so that they will
    NEVER fail in fatigue. On the other hand, no matter how
    over-designed an aluminum frame is, it always has some
    threshold in fatigue cycles beyond which it will fail.)

This constant flexing of a steel frame that occurs within the
elastic range of deformation must not be confused with the
permanent deformation that happens when the steel is stressed beyond
its elastic limit, (e. g., a bent fork). Repeated permanent
deformation to steel or to any other metal changes its strength
characteristics markedly (try the old "bend a paper clip back and
forth until it breaks" trick).

Because non-destructive bicycle riding almost always limits the
stresses on a frame to the elastic range of deformation, you don't
have to worry about a steel frame "wearing out" over time.

I'm sorry if all of this is old stuff to the majority of this
newsgroup's readers; I just joined a few months ago.

I can understand why Jobst might be weary about discussing this
subject; I can remember talking about it on rides with him 20 years
ago....

------------------------------

Subject: 8.36  Weight = Speed?

> I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why heavier
> people roll down hills faster than the little scrawnies like myself.

Surface as well as cross sectional area of an object (a human body)
increases more slowly than its weight (volume).  Therefore, wind drag,
that is largely dependent on surface, is proportionally smaller for a
heavier and larger object than a smaller one of similar shape and
composition.  A good example is dust at a rock quarry that remains
suspended in the air for a long time while the larger pieces such as
sand, gravel, and rock fall increasingly faster to the ground.  They
are all the same material and have similar irregular shapes but have
different weight to surface area ratios, and therefore, different wind
resistance to weight ratios.  This applies equally to bicyclists
coasting down hills if other factors such as clothing and position on
the bicycle are similar.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.37  Adjusting SPD Cleats

Six adjustments can be made when setting up SPD cleats.  With the foot
parallel to the ground and pointing in the direction of travel, the
adjustments are:

1) Left/right translation
2) Front/back translation
3) Up/down translation
4) Front to back tilt
5) Side to side tilt
6) Azimuth, often called "rotation"

Front to back tilt is adjusted as the bicycle is pedaled since the
pedals themselves rotate freely in this direction.

Some people may need to adjust side to side tilt, but this requires
the use of shims which are not provided and can cause the cleat to
protrude beyond the tread of the shoe.  Custom insoles that have
one side slightly thicker than the other may have the same effect
as shims between the cleat and the shoe.

Separate up/down adjustments for each leg may be necessary for
individuals with established leg length differences.  To adjust
up/down translation in one shoe use a combination of an insole
and raise or lower the seat.  To make small up/down changes
equally in both legs, simply raise or lower the seat.

The usual adjustments for SPD cleats are left/right, front/back,
and Azimuth.  Of these Azimuth is the most sensitive.  For most
people these three adjustments are sufficient to obtain a
comfortable alignment.

-----------------

Aligning SPD cleats:

Position the cleat so that it lies on the imaginary line between the
bony knob on the inside of your foot at the base of your big toe and
a similar but smaller knob on the outside of the foot at the base of
the smallest toe.  Set azimuth so that the pointed end of the cleat
points directly toward the front of the shoe.

If you're switching from clips and straps, and you are satisfied with
your current alignment, use the following alternate method.  Position
your SPD shoe fully in the clip of your old pedal and align the cleat
to the spindle of your old pedal.  Center the cleat in the X direction,
leaving room to adjust either way should the need arise.

Some people find pedaling more comfortable if their left and right
feet are closer together.  This is sometimes called the "Q-factor".
If you prefer to start with a low Q-factor, then move the cleat so that
it is as close as possible to the outside of the shoe.  Tighten both
cleat bolts before engaging the pedal.

Adjust the release tension of the pedals so that it is somewhere in
the low to middle part of the tension adjustment range.  The higher
the release tension, the harder it will be for you to disengage the
pedals when dismounting.  The lower the release tension, the easier it
will be for you to inadvertently pull out of the pedals, especially
when standing and pedaling.  If you stand often to power up hills,
consider setting the initial release tension higher as an unwanted
release under these conditions can result in a painful spill.  See
the pedal instructions.

Mount your bike on a trainer, if you have one, to make preliminary
cleat and release tension adjustments.  Practice engaging and
disengaging the pedals a few times before you take a real ride.
Soon you will find this easy.  If you notice that a shoe rubs a
crank or chainstay, adjust left/right translation and azimuth
until the shoe no longer rubs.

As you pedal, you will probably find the initial azimuth
uncomfortable on one or both legs.  Notice how your foot would like
to rotate.  Adjust the azimuth of the appropriate cleat in the same
direction your foot wants to rotate.  For example, if your foot
wants to rotate clockwise, adjust the azimuth of the cleat (when
looking at the bottom of the shoe) clockwise.  Start by making
moderate corrections.  If you overshoot the adjustment, correct by
half as much.

As you approach optimum azimuth, you may need to ride longer before
you notice discomfort.  Take your bike off the trainer, and go for
a real ride!  And bring your 4mm allen key.

You may find very small azimuth adjustments difficult to make.  This
happens because the cleat has made an indentation in the stiff sole
material (usually plastic, sometimes with a tacky, glue-like
material where a portion of the sole was removed).  When you tighten
the cleat after making a small correction, it will tend to slide back
into the old indentation.  Try moving the cleat one millimeter or so
to the side or to the front or back, so the cleat can no longer slip
into the old indentation pattern as it is being tightened.

Pain in the ball of your foot can be relieved.  One way is by moving
the cleat rearward.  Start by moving the cleat about two to three
millimeters closer to the rear of the shoe.  Be careful not to change
the azimuth.  When pedaling notice how far your heel is from the
crank.  After making a front/rear adjustment, check to make sure the
crank-heel distance has not noticeably changed.

Moving a cleat rearward on the shoe has the effect of raising your seat
by a lesser amount for that leg.  The exact expression is messy, but
for an upright bike, the effect is similar to raising your seat by
about y/3 for that leg, where y is the distance you moved the cleat to
the rear.  For example, if you move your cleat 6 millimeters to the
rear, you might also want to lower your seat by about 2 millimeters.
Remember, though, that unless both cleats are moved rearward the same
amount, your other leg may feel that the seat is too low.

Another way to relieve pain in the ball of the foot is to use a custom
orthotic and/or a padded insole.  Most cycling shoes provide poor arch
support and even poorer padding.

After riding for a while with your aligned cleats if you find yourself
pulling out of the pedals while pedaling, you will need to tighten the
release tension.  After tightening the release tension the centering
force of the pedals will be higher, and you may discover that the
azimuth isn't optimum.  Adjust the azimuth as described above.

On the other hand, if you find you never pull out of the pedals while
pedaling and if you find it difficult or uncomfortable to disengage
the cleat, try loosening the release tension.  People whose knees
like some rotational slop in the cleat may be comfortable with very
loose cleat retension.

As with any modification that affects your fit on the bike, get used
to your pedals gradually.  Don't ride a century the day after you
install SPDs.  Give your body about two or three weeks of gradually
longer rides to adapt to the new feel and alignment, especially if
you've never ridden with clipless pedals before.  Several months after
installing SPDs, I occasionally tinker with the alignment.

After performing the above adjustments if you are still uncomfortable,
seek additional help.  Some people can be helped by a FitKit.  If
you're lucky enough to have a good bike shop nearby, seek their
advice.

-----------------

Tightening cleat bolts:

Tighten cleat bolts until they _begin_ to bind.  This will happen when
further tightening produces a vibration or squeal from the cleat.
Tighten no further or you may damage the mounting plate on the inside
of the shoe.   After living for a while with a comfortable alignment,
remove each mounting bolt separately, apply blue loctite on the
threads, and reinstall.  Should you later find you need to loosen a
bolt to adjust the alignment, you will have to reapply the loctite.

Keeping the Pedal/Cleat interface clean:

Occasionally you may find the pedals suddenly more difficult to
disengage.  This usually happens because dirt or other contaminants
get caught in the cleat or pedal mechanism.  I have found that a good
spray with a hose quickly and cleanly washes off dust, mud, or other
gunk from the pedal and cleat.  You may also wish to spray the pedal
with a light silicone or teflon lubricant.

Acknowledgements:

John Unruh ([e-mail])
Lawrence You ([e-mail])

-----------------

Case History:

I have sensitive legs--feet, ankles, knees, tendons, etc.  If the
cleats aren't aligned properly, I feel it.  I took a long time to find
a cleat alignment that was comfortable for long and/or intense rides.

I ride a Bridgestone RB-T, 62cm frame, triple chainring.  I wear size
48 Specialized Ground Control shoes--evil-looking black and red
things.  They were the only shoes I could find in my size that were
comfortable.  When I installed the M737 pedals, I had 175mm cranks.
I set the release tension so that the indicator was at the loose end
but so that I could see the entire nut in the slot.

The azimuth I found most comfortable had both shoes pointing roughly
straight ahead.  The ball of my left foot began hurting, so I moved
the left cleat back about 4-6mm.  This placed the ball of my foot in
front of the pedal spindle.  I did not make any left/right
adjustments.

Unfortunately, on longer rides, the ball of my left foot still hurt,
so I got a pair of custom CycleVac "Superfeet" insoles.  I removed the
stock insole from the shoe, and inserted the CycleVac insole.  The
CycleVac doesn't have any padding at the ball, and my foot didn't like
the hard plastic sole of the shoe.  I had a pair of thin green Spenco
insoles lying around, so I put those under the CycleVacs to provide
some padding.  I didn't use the stock insoles because they are too
thick.  Finally, the pain was gone!  If I remain pain-free for a while
I may try moving the left cleat forward again.

Then I replaced the 175mm cranks with 180mm cranks, and I lowered the
seat 2.5mm.  My left foot was still happy, but my right knee began to
complain.  Not only that, but my right foot felt as if it was being
twisted to the right (supinating), toward the outside of the pedal.
After fussing with the azimuth of the right cleat, I couldn't find a
satisfactory position, though I could minimize the discomfort.

I moved the right cleat as far as I could to the outside of the shoe,
bringing my foot closer to the crank.  I also reduced the release
tension further.  The red indicating dots are now just visible.  This
helped my knee, but my foot still felt as if it were being twisted,
as if all the force were being transmitted through the outside of the
foot.  In addition, my left Achilles Tendon started to hurt at times.

I lowered the seat another couple millimeters.  This helped, but I
felt that my right leg wasn't extending far enough.  Then I tried
_rotating_ the saddle just a little to the right, so the nose was
pointing to the right of center.  This helped.  But my right foot
still felt supinated, and my right knee started to hurt again.

I removed the right CycleVac insole and Spenco insole and replaced them
with the original stock insole that provides little arch support.
Bingo.  The discomfort was gone.  It seems I need the arch support for
the left foot but not for the right foot.

How long will it be before I make another tweak?  The saga continues...

-----------------

Copyright 1993, Bill Bushnell.  Feel free to distribute this article
however you see fit, but please leave the article and this notice
intact.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.38  Rim Tape Summary
From: Ron Larson <[e-mail]>

This is a summary of the experience of riders on the net regarding
various rim tapes, both commercial and improvized. Any additional
comments and inputs are welcome.

RIM TAPE

Rim tape or rim strips are the material that is placed inside a
clincher rim to protect the tube from sharp edges of the nipple holes
and possibly exposed ends of spokes extending beyond the nipples. Many
materials have been used to produce rim tapes: plastic, rubber, tapes
consisting of a multi-directional fiber weave, duct tape and fiberglass
packing tape.

A few factors influence how well a rim tape works. Some of the tapes
are available in more than one width. It is important to choose the
width that provides the best fit to cover the entire "floor" of the rim
as opposed to a tape that is barely wide enough to cover the nipple
holes. Another factor is how well the rim tape withstands the stress of
being stretched over the nipple holes with a high preassure inner tube
applying preassure to it. The main form of failure of the plastic tapes
is for the tape to split lengthwise (in the direction the tube lies in
the rim) under high preassure forming a sharp edge that the tube
squeezes through and then rubs against. Thus the splitting tape causes
the flat that it was supposed to be protecting against.

REVIEW OF RIM TAPES BY TYPE

Plastic Tapes

Advantages:

Easy to install and remove. No sticky side is involved.

Disadvantages:

Although there are exceptions, they are prone to splitting under
preassure.

Michelin                      Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 6

Cool Tape                     Good Experiences: 2  Bad Experiences: 0

  Cool Tape is thicker than other plastic tapes and does not exhibit
  the splitting failure noted above.

Hutchinson                    Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 2

Specialized                   Good Experiences: 1  Bad Experiences: 4

Rubber Tapes

Advantages:

Easy to install and remove. Good if the nipples are even with the rim
floor and there are no exposed spoke ends.

Disadvantages:

Stretch too easily and allow exposed nipple ends to rub through the
tape and then through the tape.

Rubber strips                 Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 2

Cloth tapes woven of multi-directional fibers:

Advantages:

Easy to install. Do not fail under preassure.

Disadvantages:

They are a sticky tape and care must be taken not to pick up dirt if
they need to be removed and re-installed.

Velox                         Good Experiences:11  Bad Experiences: 0

  Velox rim tape comes in three different widths. Be sure to get the
  widest tape that covers the floor of the rim without extending up the
  walls of the rim.  The stem hole may need to be enlarged to allow the
  stem to seat properly. Otherwise the stem may push back into the tube
  under preassure and cause a puncture at the base of the stem.

Non-commercial rim tapes

Fiberglass packing tape (1 or 2 layers)

Advantages:

Cheap. Readily available. Easy to install.

Disadvantages:

Impossible to remove. If access to the nipples is required, the tape
must be split and then either removed and replaced or taped over.

Fiberglass packing tape       Good Experiences: 1  Bad Experiences: 1

Duct tape (hey, someone tried it!!)

Advantages:

CHEAP. Readily available.

Disadvantages:

Useless. Becomes a gooey mess that is impossible to remove.

Duct tape                     Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 1

CONCLUSION

While plastic tapes are easy to work with, they often fail. The clear
winner in this survey is the Velox woven cloth tape. A quick review of
mail order catalogs confirms the experiences of the net. Velox was
available in 5 out of 5 catalogs checked.  It was the only rim tape
available in 3 of the catalogs. The other 2 had one or two plastic
tapes available. (None sold duct tape...)

One good suggestion was a preassure rating for rim tapes much like the
preassure rating of tires.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.39  STI/Ergo Summary
From: Ron Larson <[e-mail]>

This is the second posting of the summary of STI/Ergo experience. The
summary was modified to include more on STI durability and also the
range of shifting avaliable from each system. As before, I am open to
any comments or inputs.

lars

THE CASE FOR COMBINED SHIFTERS AND BRAKES.

Shifters that are easily accessible from either the brakehoods or the
"drop" position are an advantage when sprinting or climbing because the
rider is not forced to commit to a single gear or loose power / cadence
by sitting down to reach the downtube shifters. They also make it much
easier to respond to an unexpected attack.

At first the tendency is to shift more than is necessary. This tendency
levels out with experience. There is also an early tendency to do most
shifting from the bakehoods and the actuators seem to be difficult to
reach from the drop position. This discomfort goes away after a few
hundred miles of use (hey, how many times have I reached for the
downtube on my MTB or thumbshifters on my road bike???).  All
experienced riders expressed pleasure with the ability to shift while
the hands were in any position, at a moments notice.

The disadvantages are extra weight, added weight on the handlebars
(feels strange at first) and expense. Lack of a friction mode was
listed as a disadvantage by a rider who had tried out STI on someone
elses bike but does not have Ergo or STI. It was not noted as a problem
by riders with extended Ergo / STI experience. A comparison of the
weight of Record/Ergo components and the weight of the Record
components they would replace reveals that the total weight difference
is in the 2 to 4 ounce range (quite a spread - I came up with 2 oz from
various catalogs, Colorado Cyclist operator quoted 4 oz of the top of
his head). The weight difference for STI seems to be in the same
range.  The change probably seems to be more because weight is shifted
from the downtube to the handlebars.

There was some concern from riders who had not used either system
regarding the placement of the actuating buttons and levers for Ergo
and STI and their affect on hand positions. Riders with experience have
not had a problem with the placement of the actuators although one
rider stated that the STI brakehoods are more comfortable.

ADVANTAGES OF EACH SYSTEM.

The Sachs/Ergo system was mentioned as a separate system. In fact
(according to publications) it is manufactured By Campagnolo for Sachs
and is identical to the Campagnolo system with the exception of spacing
of the cogs on the freewheel/cassette.  With the Ergo system, all
cables can be routed under the handlebar tape while the STI system does
not route the derailleur cables  under the tape. Those that voiced a
preference liked the clean look of the Ergo system.

Both Ergo and STI seem to be fairly durable when crashed.  Experience
of riders who have crashed with either system is that the housings may
be scratch and ground down but the system still works. The internal
mechanismsof both systems are well protected in a crash.

Both Ergo and STI allow a downshift of about 3 cogs at a time. This
capability is very handy for shifting to lower gears in a corner to be
ready to attack as you come out of the corner or when caught by
surprise at a stop light. Ergo also allows a full upshift from the
largest to the smallest cog in a single motion while STI requires an
upshift of one cog at a time.

Riders voiced their satisfaction with both systems. While some would
push one system over the other, these opinions were equally split.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.40  Roller Head Bearings
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Roller head bearings provide an advantage that is not directly
connected with rollers.  Their main advantage is that they have two
bearings in one and this is important because there are two functions
this bearing must accomplish.  The problem of the head bearing is not
obvious to most users or to the manufacturers or they would do
something about the miserable state of affairs.

The head bearing serves as a hinge about which the front wheel
assembly rotates, but it also absorbs another motion and this is the
problem.  As the bicycle rolls over roughness, the fork absorbs shock
partly by flex in the steer tube, and this flexing makes the fork
crown rotate fore and aft.  The motion can be seen by sighting over
the handle bars to the front hub while riding and is more pronounced
for the taller heavier riders who also experience most of the head
bearing failures.

The angles through which the fork crown swivels are extremely small in
contrast to the motion at the hub because the distance between the hub
and the fork crown is large.  This motion is not in itself damaging to
the bearing because it is only a small misalignment that such bearings
absorb easily.  The damage is caused by the lack of substantial
steering rotation while the bearing is fretting in place.  Fretting
breaks down the lubricant film on which the balls normally roll and
without which they will weld to the races and tear out tiny particles.

Fretting that causes lubrication failure occurs most often during fast
straight-ahead road riding where few steering motions occur to
replenish lubricant.  Typically, coasting down long fast descents
rather than rough, jarring trail riding causes dimples in the head
bearings.  The removal of small particles from the races give the
milky texture to the dimples that are often attributed to brinelling.
They are not embossed into the races but are eroded by fretting and
welding.  Once initiated the dimples grow because the balls prefer to
return to the depressions.  As the process progresses the bearing
becomes loose and if adjusted, is tight when not steering straight
ahead, thereby giving the indexed response.

A solution is to separate steering from suspension motion.  This can
be done by using a rolling bearing for low friction steering and a
large plain bearing for the fore and aft tilt of the fork crown.  This
is where the needle bearing comes into play.  Conical steel cups that
approximate a spherical bearing ride in a plain aluminum body to
support the fork crown tilt.  The pressure of a large area plain
bearing is low enough for good lubrication even with fretting while
steel rollers that approximate a tapered roller bearing give low
friction steering.  The rollers run on the backs of the steel cups
that are the plain bearing.  The curvature of a true spherical cup
would be so small as to be invisible, as would the precise taper of a
needle for such a design.  The approximations are appropriate.

The entire bearing is relatively inexpensive, having no precision
races, special hard alloys, or complicated formed steel cages.  Needle
bearings are as inexpensive as balls and a plastic cage holds them in
true radial alignment.  The steel cups are actually bellville shaped
hardened washers and the housings are turned aluminum parts.  It would
be wasteful to combine a ball assembly with the spherical alignment
cups because these cups lend themselves to supporting rollers without
modification.  Balls, in contrast, need curved races.  I expect other
major manufacturers to take up this design soon.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.41  Tubular Tire Repair
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Opening the Tire

To patch the tube, you must get into the tire and requires opening the
casing by peeling the base tape back and unstitching the seam.  If
this is a seamless tire, chuck it.  There are two types of seams,
zipper stitch (using one thread) and two thread stitch.  The zipper
stitch is identified by having only one thread.  It appears to make a
pattern of slanted arrows that points in the direction in which it can
be 'unzipped'.  Never open more tire than is necessary to pull the
tube out of the casing.  Remember, the tube is elastic and can be
pulled out of a three cm long opening pretty well.  Even if there are
two punctures not too far apart, the tube can be pulled out of a near
by opening.  If you must insert a boot, you'll need to open about 6 cm
or about the length of the boot and then some.

Base Tape

Never cut the base tape because it cannot be butt joined.  Always pull
it to one side or separate it where it is overlapped.  (also: Don't
cut the tire seam, pull out the stitches.)  When working on the stem,
only unstitch on one side of the stem, preferably the side where
machine finished.  Use latex to glue down loose threads on a sidewall
cut.  Paint the exposed casing zone that is to be covered by the base
tape and the base tape with latex emulsion, allow to partially dry and
put the tape in place.  Put the tire on a rim and inflate hard.

Zipper Stitch

Cut the thread at some convenient place at the upstream end of the
opening and, with a blunt awl like a nitting needle, pull out a few
stitches in the direction the stitch pattern points.  Once you have
exposed a length of thread, you can pull the stitching out like a
zipper.  When you have opened enough, take the loose end and run it
through the last loop that has not yet been pulled to lock the zipper.
If you think the thread is good enough, don't cut it off but use it to
re-sew the seam.

Two Thread Stitch

One of the threads makes a zig zag as it locks the other thread where
it penetrates the tire casing.  Cut both threads near the middle of
the opening and, with a blunt awl like a nitting needle, pull out a
the locking thread in both directions.  The locking thread is the
easier one to pull out so remove as many stitches as you'll need to
get into the tire.  The other thread pulls out like a zipper.  Tie a
square knot with the loose ends at both ends of the opening and cut
off the rest.

Patching

Patch butyl (black) tubes using patches from a bicycle patch kit.

To patch a latex tube make patches from an old latex tube that are
fully rounded and just large enough to cover the hole plus five mm.
For instance, a thorn hole takes a 10 mm diameter patch.  Use Pastali
rim glue wiped thinly onto the patch with your finger.  Place the
patch on the tube immediately and press flat.  Latex will pass the
volatile solvent allowing the glue to cure rapidly with good adhesion
to the tube.

Casing Repair

Repairing tubular tires requires latex emulsion.  You can get it from
carpet layers, who usually have it in bulk.  You must have a container
and beg for a serving.  If you are repairing them you probably ride
tubulars, and therefore, will have dead ones lying around.  The best
tubulars generally furnish the best repair material.

Most cuts of more than a few cords require a structural boot.  For
boot material, pull the tread off a silk sprint tire, unstitch it and
cut off the bead at the edge of the fold.  Now you have a long ribbon
of fine boot material.  Cut off a 50cm long piece and trim it to a
width that just fits inside the casing of the tire to be booted from
inside edge of the bead (the folded part) to the other edge.

The boot must be trimmed to a thin feathered edge so that the tube is
not exposed to a step at the boot's edge, otherwise this will cause
pinholes in a thin latex tube.  Apply latex to the cleaner side of
the boot and the area inside the tire.  Insert the boot and press it
in place, preferably in the natural curve of the tire.  This makes the
the boot the principal structural support when the tire is again
inflated.  If the casing is flat when the boot is glued, it will
stretch the casing more than the boot upon inflation.
After the boot dries, and this goes rapidly, sew the tire up.

Tube Replacement

To replace the entire tube, open the tire on one side of the stem, the
side that seems to be easier to re-sew after the repair.  Open about
eight to ten cm the usual way and pull out the old tube by the stem
locally.  Cut the tube and attach a 1/16" thick nylon cord to the
loose end of the tube to be pulled through the casing as you pull the
old tube out.

Cut the "new" latex tube about 5 cm away from the stem, tie the cord
onto the loose end and pull it gently into the casing.  Dumping some
talc into the casing and putting talc onto the tube helps get the
tube into place.  With the tube in place, pull enough of it out by
stretching it to splice the ends together.

Splicing the Tube

This procedure only works with latex tubes.  Overlap the tube ends so
that the free end goes about one cm inside the end with the stem.
With the tube overlapped, use a toothpick to wipe Pastali rim cement
into the interface.  The reason this MUST be done in place is that the
solvent will curl the rubber into an unmanageable mess if you try this
in free space.  Carefully glue the entire circumference and press the
joint together by pressing the tube flat in opposing directions.  Wait
a minute and then gently inflate to check the results.  More glue can
be inserted if necessary if you do not wait too long.

Sewing the Tire

Sewing machines make holes through the bead that are straight across
at a regular stitch interval.  For best results, you must use the
original stitch holes when re-sewing.  Get a strong thread that you
cannot tear by hand and a (triangular) needle from a Velox tubular
patch kit (yes I know they are scarce).  Make the first stitch about
one stitch behind the last remaining machine stitch and tie it off in
a slip knot.

With the beads of the tire pressed against each other so that the old
holes are exactly aligned, sew in a loop stitch pulling each stitch
tight, going forward two holes then back one, forward two, back one,
until the seam is closed.  This is a balanced stitch that uses one
thread and can stretch longitudinally.

Now that you know everything there is to know about this, get some
practice.  It works, I did it for years.

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part4

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 8.42  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

All cassette hubs are not nearly alike.  That is apparent from the
outside by their appearance and by the sprockets that fit on them.
More important to their longevity is how their insides are designed.
Among the mainline brands, some are a response not only to the choice
and interchangeability of sprockets but to the problem of broken rear
axles and right rear dropouts.  These failures are caused by bending
loads at the middle of the rear axle that arise from bearing support
that is not at the ends of the axle.  The following diagrams attempt
to categorize the freewheel and hub combination, and two cassette
designs with respect to these loads.

                           |
          H             H  | |
          H             H Io-- |
      /-------------------\   -o\
      O                   O------
   ===X==================wX=========    Axle has weak spot at "w"
      O                   O------           (Freewheel & hub)
      \-------------------/   -o/
          H             H Io-- |
          H             H  | |
                           |


                           |
          H             H  | |
          H             H  | | |
      /------------------\ /----\
      O                  O O----O
   ===X==================XwX====X===    Axle has weak spot at "w"
      O                  O O----O         (Hugi and Campagnolo)
      \------------------/ \----/
          H             H  | | |
          H             H  | |
                           |


                           |
          H             H  | |
          H             H  | | |
      /------------------\/o---o\
      O                   \-----O
   ===X=========================X===    Axle is loaded only at ends
      O                   /-----O          (Shimano and SunTour)
      \------------------/\o---o/
          H             H  | | |
          H             H  | |
                           |

For clarity only three sprocket gear clusters are shown.

Strong cyclists put the greatest load on the axle by the pull of the
chain because there is a 2:1 or greater lever ratio from pedal to
chainwheel.  The freewheel in the first diagram has the greatest
overhung load when in the rightmost sprocket.  The second design has
the greatest bending moment on the axle when in the leftmost sprocket
and the third design is independent (in the first order) of chain
position.  This third design carries its loads on bearings at the ends
of the axle for minimum axle stress while the other two put a large
bending moment on the middle of the axle.

Common freewheel hubs have not only the highest bending stress but the
smallest axle at 10mm diameter with threads that help initiate
cracking.  The second design type generally uses a larger diameter
axle to avoid failure.  However, these axles still have significant
flex that can adversely affect the dropout.

There are other important considerations in selecting a hub.
Among these are:

1.  Durability of the escapement and its angular backlash (t/rev).
2.  Flange spacing, offset, and diameter.
3.  Type of bearings (cone / cartridge) and environmental immunity.
4.  Ease of sprocket replacement and cost.

Currently the best solution for sprocket retention is a splined body
that allows individual sprockets to be slipped on and be secured by an
independent retainer.  Screwing sprockets onto the body is
indefensible, considering the difficulty of removal.  The same goes
for freewheels.  No longer needing to unscrew tight freewheels is
another advantage for cassette hubs.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.43  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2
From: David Keppel <[e-mail]>

People often ask ``should I use a freewheel or a freehub?''  The
answer is usually ``yes.''

The hub is the center of a wheel and is composed of an axle, bolted to
the bike frame, a hub shell or hub body, where the spokes attatch, and
bearings to let the shell rotate around the axle.

Freewheels screw onto threads on the rear hub's shell, and cogs
attatch to the freewheel.  The freewheel's job is to provide a ratchet
between the cogs and the hub shell, so that you can coast.  Freehubs
are similar but combine parts of the freewheel with parts of the hub
shell.  Freehubs are also sometimes called ``cassettes''.

The usual problem with rear hubs is that axles bend and break.  This
is because the axle diameter was chosen when single cogs were used and
the hub bearing was positioned close to the frame.  Since then, wider
cog clusters have become the norm, the bearings and frame have moved
further apart and leverage on the axle has increased.  But since the
axle has not gotten any stronger, it now has a tendency to fail.

Cassettes fix the problem by incorporating one hub bearing in to the
freewheel mechanism, so that the bearing is once again outboard and
the axle is carrying its load under less leverage.  Some freewheel hubs
solve the problem by using fatter axles.  Since increasing the axle
diameter dramatically improves axle strength, this is an effective
solution and it is possible to use a fat axle that is aluminum and thus
lighter than a standard skinny (weaker) steel axle.

Neither solution is perfect -- cassette hubs let you use standard
replacement axles, cones, washers, etc., but force you to use cogs and
spacers and whatnot by a particular manufacturer (and possibly
derailleurs and shifters -- e.g. XTR uses 4.9mm cog-to-cog spacing
instead of the normal 5.0mm).  On the other hand, fat axles are
nonstandard as are some other replacement parts.

As an aside, the cassette solution leaves a fairly long unsupported
axle stub on the left side, and this is sometimes a source of more
bending problems.  Fatter axles solve the problem on both sides.

Note also that many cassette systems allow you to remove the cogs using
a lightweight tool and thus give you ready access to the spokes in case
of breakage.  Freewheels attatch with a fine thread (another historical
artifact, I believe) and are thus more difficult to remove on the road,
making spoke replacement harder.

In principle, freehubs have all cogs attatch using the same size and
shape of spline, so, e.g., a 20T cog can be used as both a large cog
for a corncob cluster and as a middle cog for wide-range cluster.
However, Shimano's marketing is just the opposite and is directed at
selling whole clusters, without letting you replace individual cogs.
(Shimano's policy is relevant here since they sell 90+% of such hubs.)
Freewheels have several spline diameters in order to clear the bearings
and ratchet.  Further, small cogs typically screw on to the freewheel
body or special cogs with extra threads.  This introduces stocking
problems and may make it hard to build some cog combinations.

I'm not a fan of freehubs for the simple reason that they lock me in
to one maker's choices about cogs and cog spacing.  For example, I had
a 1988 Shimano 6-speed freehub and by 1991 Shimano had, according to my
local bike store, discontinued 6-speed replacement cogs.  Thus, simply
replacing one worn cog meant upgrading to a 7-speed system, which in
turn requires all new cogs, a new freehub body (lucky me -- for some it
requires a new hub and thus new wheel), and, if I wanted to keep index
shifting, new thumbshifters.  Had this been a freewheel-equipped
bicycle, I could have easily switched to another maker's 6-speed
freewheels.

Fortunately, the market is stablizing, with a growing number of makers
producing hubs and cogs using a spline pattern like the more recent
Shimano 7-speed freehubs.  However, it hasn't settled entirely, yet.

        ;-D oN  ( A hubalaboo )  Pardo

------------------------------

Subject: 8.44  "Sealed" Bearings
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> Has anyone had any major problems with the Shimono XT "sealed" Bottom
> bracket besides me?

This subject comes up often and has been beat around a bit.  There is a
basic misconception about seals.  The seals commonly sold in the bicycle
business are not capable of sealing out water because they were never
designed for that purpose.  These seals are designed to prevent air from
being drawn through the bearing when used in, typically, electric motors
where the motor rotation pumps air that would centrifugally be drawn
through the bearing.  If this were permitted, the lubricant would act as
fly paper and capture all the dust that passes, rendering the lubricant
uselessly contaminated.

Seal practice requires a seal to leak if it is to work.  The seepage
lubricates the interface between shaft and seal and without this small
amount of weeping, the seal lip would burn and develop a gap.  In the
presence of water on the outside, the weeping oil emulsifies and
circulates back under the lip to introduce moisture into the bearing.
This is usually not fatal because it is only a small amount, but the
displaced grease on the lip dries out and leaves the lip unlubricated.

The next time water contacts the interface, it wicks into the gap by
capillary action and begins to fill the bearing.  This is an expected
result for seal manufacturers who live by the rule that no two fluids
can be effectively separated by a single seal lip.  Two oils, for
instance, must have separate seals with a ventilated air gap between
them.  If a seal is to work with only one lip the contained fluid must
be at a higher pressure so that the flow is biased to prevent
circulation.

None of the effective methods are used in the so called 'sealed'
bearings that Phil Wood introduced into bicycling years ago.  His
components failed at least as often as non sealed units and probably
more often because they make field repair difficult.  These are not
liquid seals but merely air dams.

[e-mail]

------------------------------

Subject: 8.45  Installing Cranks
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> My cranks get loose, quite quickly too; over about 10 miles or so
> from being solid to flopping about in the breeze. Any suggestions?

Your cranks are ruined!  Once ridden in the "floppy" mode, the square
taper in the crank can no longer be secured on the spindle.  Get some
new cranks and properly tighten them after lubricating the tapers.
Proper tightness can be guaranteed only by torque wrench or a skilled
mechanic.  The second of these is less expensive and you might be able
to get a demonstration of what is tight enough.

The admonition to not lubricate the tapers of the crank spindle seems
to find life only in bicycle cranks among all the machines I have ever
seen.  I have never heard a mechanical or metallurgical explanation
for this "dry assembly" instruction.  If it is metal to metal galling
to which the adherents of this method aspire, they should prescribe a
suitable degreaser to assure that it will occur.  Manual contact
(finger prints) alone, generally imparts enough grease to constitute
lubrication while specifically applying a lubricant guarantees that a
known kind and quantity of, rather than accidental grease is present.

Regardless, whether grease or no grease is used, in use, the spindle
and crank will make metal to metal contact and cause fretting
corrosion for all but the lightest riders.  The purpose of the
lubricant is to give a predictable press fit for a known torque.  If
the spindle is completely dry this cannot be said and for other
conditions, some galling may occur on installation.  Lubrication is
only used to guarantee a proper press without galling because it is
displaced in use.  That taper faces show erosion and rouge after
substantial use proves that the lubricant was displaced.

Only the press fit, not friction, transmits loads from crank to
spindle.  As any bicycle mechanic can tell you, crank bolts are often
'nearly loose' after use and the left one more so than the right.
This occurs because the left end of the spindle experiences torque and
bending simultaneously while the right end gets them one at a time.
The right pedal does not put any significant torque into the spindle.
Either way, the looseness occurs because loads make the crank squirm
on the spindle and the only direction it can move is up the taper.
The retaining bolt blocks the other direction.

"Dust caps" aren't just dust caps but retention for loose bolts.  It
is not that the bolt unscrews but that the crank moves up the taper.
However, once the screw is unloaded it can subsequently unscrew and
fall out if there is no cap.

The NO GREASE admonition is an old wive's tale that must have
propagated up from some bike shop.  It makes no sense whatsoever.  I
have yet to see a logical explanation other than so and so said so.  I
believe that some bike shops are concerned that they might strip out
retaining bolts as was the problem with low quality Campagnolo cranks.
In that effort they advised to re-tighten the screws after every ride
for a week.  This spells disaster because for strong and heavy riders
this can split the crank right down the middle.

Because cranks squirm farther up the taper when stressed highly, the
unwitting mechanic believes the screw got loose, rather than that the
crank got on tighter.  By pursuing the crank with its every move up
the spindle, an extremely high press fit results.  I have seen cranks
that were split by this procedure.  This may be is where the NO GREASE
fable was born.

Jobst Brandt      <[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Subject: 8.46  Stress Relieving Spokes
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> I wonder if "stress-relieving" is entirely correct?  I see it as a
> yielding/hardening process, in which the yield load is increased by
> embedding the spoke elbow in the hub, bending the elbow to a different
> angle, etc.  When unloaded from a high load, this area of the spoke
> should be more or less elastic.

> So I think the term should be "overloading" or "hardening" -- any
> thoughts??

Yes.  I am certain that the concept of stress relieving is obscure to many
if not most people because after seeming to understand it, comments like
this one surface.

A spoke is cold formed from wire that is (at least DT) as hard and
work hardened as it will get.  The process after tensioning a wheel
does not further harden the spokes.  The wire is straightened by
running it through staggered rollers in X and Y directions.  The
rollers have, like a degausser, ever diminishing excursions.  This
gets rid of the natural curl left from being shipped in a coil.  If
the wire was not curled before winding it would be a dangerous weapon
on the spool because if the end got loose, all hell would break loose,
making a huge birds nest.

Anyway, the straightening process leaves the spoke with internal
stresses that are well balanced and relatively low.  I haven't given
this a lot of thought but it seems that if there were a large number
of rollers, the stress might approach zero.  After this process, the
spoke gets its head forged on is cut to length, threaded and, and
lastly its head is crudely but accurately knocked to one side to
produce the elbow.

The threads, head, and elbow, contain metal that went beyond yield as
well as metal that did not.  The metal in these zones is stressed one
part against another, one wanting to return to the condition before or
during forming, and the other to the formed shape.  On lacing the
spokes into a wheel, the elbow is additionally bent (brought to yield)
and upon tensioning this stress remains at or reaches the yield point
it if it wasn't already there.  The threads, that have locked in
stresses (all stresses are ultimately tension and compression) is
selectively stressed at the contact points with the nipple thread and
in tension in the core that already was in tension because thread
rolling stretches this portion of the spoke slightly.

The result is that a freshly built wheel has spokes locations where
stress is guaranteed to be at the yield point.  If used this way, the
cyclic load with each wheel revolution will cause spokes to fail in
fatigue at these high stress points.  The load on the wheel only
unloads spokes but because the spoke is operating up to the yield
point, it cannot withstand many stress cycles.  The greater the load
(unloading) the sooner it will fail because when operating close to
the yield stress a metal cannot survive.  Only the lightest riders who
ride smooth roads might not experience failures.

The purpose of stress relieving is to relax these high stress points
in the spokes.  The purpose is not to bed the spokes into the hub.
Bedding in has usually already occurred sufficiently for practical
purposes during tensioning.  By stretching each spoke with a strong
grasp, its tension can be temporarily increased by 50 to 100%.
Because a spoke operates at about 1/3 its yield stress, this operation
has little to no effect on the spoke as a whole.  Stress relieving
affects only the microscopic zones of the spoke that are at high
stress (near or at the yield stress).  By stretching these zones and
relaxing the load afterward, the margin to yield is as much as the
overload or more.

A whimpy grasp of the spokes during stress relieving is close to
worthless and dropping the wheel, bending it in a partially opened
drawer, pressing on the rim with the hub on the floor and the like is
as close to useless as you can get.  The only method that I have seen,
but do not recommend, is walking on the wheel while wearing tennis
shoes and carefully stepping on each pair of crossed spokes.  The problem
with this is that it bends the rim and it is difficult to be sure each
spoke gets a good stretch.

IT IS STRESS RELIEVING!  At least that's what I am referring to by the
term.

Jobst Brandt      <[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Subject: 8.47  Traffic detector loops
From: Bob Shanteau <[e-mail]>

A traffic loop detects metal objects such as cars and bicycles based on
the change in inductance that they induce in the loop. The loop is an
inductor in an LC circuit that is tuned to resonate at a certain
frequency. A metal plate over the loop (like a car) causes the magnetic
flux to be shorted, reducing the inductance of the loop. This causes a
change in resonant frequency, which is detected and sent to the signal
controller. One of the ways of testing a loop is to create a loop about
2 feet in diameter with several turns of wire (connecting the ends) and
placing the test wire in the middle of the traffic loop. The test wire
should cause a dectection, if all is working.

The same effect is seen with a vertical piece of metal, such as a
bicycle, but is weaker. Because aluminum conducts electricity quite
well, aluminum rims help. Steel rims are OK. Non-metal rims cannot be
picked up at all. A bicycle with aluminum rims will cause about 1/100
the change in inductance of a car.

It is always possible to set a detector's sensitivity to pick up a
bicycle. The trade-off is in longer detection times and the possibility
of false detections from vehicles in adjacent lanes. Most people who set
signal detectors use the lowest sensitivity setting that will pick up
cars reliably.

I advocate using the highest setting that will avoid picking up vehicles
in adjacent lanes. Digital circuits used in modern detectors can use
high sensitivity settings without unacceptable increases in detection
times. Unfortunately, there are still a lot of old detectors out there,
and most people who work on signals use principles based on the
performance characteristics of old detectors.

In any case, bicyclists should, as a general rule, place their wheels
over one of the slots to maximize their chance of being detected. That
is where the magnetic field perpindicular to the wheels is strongest.
Bouncing the bike or moving it back and forth does no good. If you have
a metal frame, another tactic that may work is to lay the bicycle down
horizontally inside the loop until the light turns green.

Advancements are under way that may make traffic loops obsolete some
day. In particular, radar, infrared and sound detectors have been
introduced. Systems based on video cameras are especially promising.
Such systems can easily detect bicycles. Such a system may even be able
to detect pedestrians some day.

Bob Shanteau, PhD. PE
Registered Traffic Engineer

------------------------------

Subject: 8.48  Gluing Sew-up Tires
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

 Davis criterium, it's hot, hot, hot.  The pace is fast and the
corners sharp.  Inevitably some riders are going to roll tires,
happens every year.  What can you do to insure that your sew-up
tires stay glued when the mercury rises?

There is no one cause of poor tire-rim adhesion so let's start at
the beginning, new rims and tires.  Most rims are shipped with a
coating of anti-corrosive substances that closely resemble grease.
This has to be thoroughly removed with solvent and a clean rag
before you can put down the first coat of glue.  Fast Tack is not
the best glue to use on a bare rim.  Instead try Clement, Wolber or
one of the other slower drying glues.  Put a thin coat of glue all
the way around and leave the wheel(s) to dry for at least 12 hours.

 While this glue is drying you might check your tires for any latex
that might be covering the base tape.  If there is any latex at all
give it a good roughing up with coarse sandpaper before coating it
with a thin layer of standard glue or Fast Tack.  This too should
be left to dry for a few hours.  If you're a light rider or don't
plan on doing any hard cornering on hot days you can usually leave
out this step but always roughen the latex on the base tape.

 After the base coat of glue has dried it's time for the adhesive
layer.  This should be thicker than the first layer but not so
thick that it can squeeze out from under the tire when you mount it
and get on the rim and sidewalls.  If you are using a traditional
style road glue let it dry for ten to fifteen minutes before
putting your tires on.  Tires should be mounted on Fast Tacked rims
immediately.

 New tires usually need a good stretching before they will go onto
the rim without tending to roll and get glue all over them.  I
usually stretch a tire by pulling it around my knees and feet for
a few seconds and then mounting it on an old rim for a while.  You
might want to try mounting the tire on a dry rim first to see just
how much stretching it will need.

 If you used traditional sew-up glue you should wait at least 12
hours before doing any serious cornering.  If you need to race
right away you can use Fast Tack and corner confidently within an
hour.  Be sure to spread the glue evenly over the surface of the
rim using your finger or a brush.  To get the last section of tire
onto the rim without making a mess grab the remaining 3 or 4 inches
and lift the tire away from and over the rim.  This can be
difficult if you forget to stretch it beforehand.

 Some glues work better than others in hot weather.  Fast Tack works
best followed by Wolber and Vittoria with Clement in the middle and
Tubasti at the bottom of the list.

 When buying Fast Tack be sure you get the real thing.  3-M sells
other trim adhesives in boxes nearly identical to Fast Tack.  These
trim adhesives do not work for bicycle tires!  Be careful that
whatever glue you do use has not separated in its tube.  If it has,
take a spoke and stir it up before you squeeze it out.  I have also
heard of mixing different glues before application.  This is a
dangerous shortcut that yields unpredictable results.  Fast Tack
and Clement are the most popular tire adhesives.  Even though Fast
Tack will dry out you can get a few tire changes between
replications if you have a good layer of traditional glue on the
rim underneath it.  Racing tires though, should be reglued each
time.  Base tapes can come apart from the tire in hot weather and
underinflation can cause tires to roll as well.  Check these things
as well as the tread for wear or cuts before every race and you'll
be able to descend and corner with confidence.

------------------------------

Subject: 9  Misc

------------------------------

Subject: 9.1  Books and Magazines

  Magazines/Newsletters
  ---------
  Bicycling Magazine, and Bicycling Magazine+Mountain Bike insert
  33 E Minor St
  Emmaus, PA 18098
  [phone]

  Bicycle Guide
  711 Boylston Street
  Boston MA 02116
  617-236-1885

  Mountain Biking
  7950 Deering Avenue
  Canoga Park CA 91304
  818-887-0550

  Mountain Bike Action
  Hi-Torque Publications, Inc.
  10600 Sepulveda Boulevard
  Mission Hills, CA 91345
  818-365-6831

  Velo News
  P.O. Box 53397
  Boulder, CO 80323-3397

  Cycling Science
  P.O. Box 1510
  Mount Shasta, California 96067
  [phone]

  Human Power (The Journal of the IHPVA*)
  (* IHPVA == International Human Powered Vehicle Association)
  IHPVA
  PO 51255
  Indianapolis, IN 46251-0255
  [phone]

  OnTour: The Newsletter for Bicycle Tourists
  OnTour Publications
  2113 Arborview
  Ann Arbor, MI 48103.
  Sample issues are only $1, a six-issue subscription only $6

  R.B.C.A./The Recumbent Cyclist
  17650-B6-140th Ave. SE, Suite 341
  Renton, WA 98058 USA

  Tandem Club of America
  Malcolm Boyd & Judy Allison
  19 Lakeside Drive NW
  Medford Lakes, NJ  08550
  Dues are currently $10/year

  Dirt Rag
  5742 Third St.
  Verona, PA
  (412) 795 - 7495
  FAX  (412) 795 - 7439

  CROSSWORDS -- The Hybrid/Cross Bike Enthusiast's Newsletter
  CROSSWORDS
  P.O. Box 3207
  Walnut Creek, CA  94598
  Published Quarterly; Single Issue: $2.50, Two Issues: $4.00
  (Make checks payable to 'Mark Chandler')
  Mail '[e-mail]' or 'Crosswords' (AOL) for more info

  Bike Culture Quarterly is an engaging magazine for "[people] who see
  cycling as a way of life rather than an occasional leisure activity".
  It has interviews with people building interesting bikes (Mike Burrows
  about the Obree bike), travel reports, discussions of bicycle
  advocacy, new equipment, and so on.  Its summer issue is the
  "Encycleopedia"  "a personal selection of unorthodox, thoughtful
  cycling products from around the world".

  Price is (British Pounds) 25/year.

  Order by phone  UK:  [phone]   outside UK:  [phone]

  Post:    Open Road
      4 New Street
      York  Y01 2RA,
      England

  They accept Visa, Access, Mastercard, and Eurocard.  Eurocheques are
  also accepted.  From the US, it's easiest to use a credit card.


  Books
  -----
  Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair
  Rodale Press
  ISBN 0-87857-895-1

  Effective Cycling by John Forester
  MIT Press
  ISBN 0-262-56026-7

  The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt
  Avocet
  ISBN 0-9607236-2-5

  Bicycle Maintenance Manual by Eugene A. Sloan
  (a Fireside book, pub. Simon & Schuster, Inc.)
  ISBN 0-671-42806-3

  Anybody's Bike Book by Tom Cuthbertson

  Bicycles and Tricycles
  An Elementary Treatise on Their Design and Construction
  by Archibald Sharp
  Reprint of the 1896 edition, with a foreword by David Gordon Wilson
  Anytime you hear of a "new" invention for bicycles, look it up in
  here, and you'll find it.
  MIT press  - I have a paperback edition labelled $14.95

  Bicyling Science
  by Frank Rowland Whitt and David Gordon Wilson
  A good book, and an excellent reference.
  Second Edition 1982, MIT press, paper $9.95

  Bicycle Road Racing by Edward Borysewicz

  The Woman Cycist by Elaine Mariolle
  Contemporary Books

  Touring on Two Wheels by Dennis Coello
  Lyons and Berrfard, New York

  The Bicyclist's Sourcebook by Michael Leccese and Arlene Plevin
  Subtitled: "The Ultimate Directory of Cycling Information"
  Woodbine House, Inc.  $16.95
  ISBN 0-933149-41-7

  Colorado Cycling Guide by Jean and Hartley Alley
  Pruett Publishing Company
  Boulder, Colorado

  The Canadian Rockies Bicycling Guide by Gail Helgason and John Dodd
  Lone Pine Publishing,Edmonton, Alberta

  A Women's Guide to Cycling by Susan Weaver

  Favorite Pedal Tours of Northern California by Naomi Bloom
  Fine Edge Productions, Route 2, Box 303, Bishop, CA  93514

  Mountain Biking Near Boston: A Guide to the Best 25 Places to Ride
  by Stuart A. Johnstone, Active Publications (1991), ISBN 0-9627990-4-1

  Mountain Bike: a manual of beginning to advanced technique
  by William Nealy, Menasha Ridge Press, 1992, ISBN 0-89732-114-6

  Greater Washington (DC) Area Bicycle Atlas
  American Youth Travel Shops, 1108 K St, NW  Wash, DC 20005 [phone]
  $12.95

  Bicycle Parking by Ellen Fletcher
  Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA 94303-4826
  Cost: $5.95, plus 43 cents tax, plus $3 postage/handling

  Richards' Ultimate Bicycle Book
  Richard Ballantine, Richard Grant (Dorling Kindersley, London, 1992)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.2  Mail Order Addresses

Here's the addresses/phone numbers of some popular cycling mail order
outfits (you can get directory assistance for 800 numbers at
1-800-555-1212 if you don't see the mail order outfit you're looking for
here):

Bicycle Posters and Prints
  P.O. Box 7164
  Hicksville, NY 11802-7164
  Sells bicycle posters and other stuff.


Branford Bike
  orders:  1-800-272-6367
  info:      203-488-0482
  fax:       [phone]


Colorado Cyclist
  orders:  1-800-688-8600
  info:    719 591-4040
  fax:     [phone]

  3970 Bijou Street
  Colorado Springs, CO  80909-9946


Cyclo-Pedia
  [phone]

  P.O. Box 884
  Adrian MI  49221
    Catalog $1 as of 4/91.


Excel Sports International
  orders:  1-800-627-6664
  info:      303-444-6737
  fax:       [phone]

  2045 32nd Street
  Boulder CO  80301

Loose Screws
  [phone]
  [phone] FAX

  12225 HWY 66
  Ashland OR 97520


Nashbar
  orders:  1-800-627-4227  (1-800-NASHBAR)
             216-782-2244  Local and APO/FPO orders
  info:      216-788-6464  Tech. Support
  fax:       [phone]

  4111 Simon Road
  Youngstown, OH 44512-1343


Performance Bike Shop
  orders:  1-800-727-2453  (1-800-PBS-BIKE)
             919-933-9113  Foreign orders
  info:      800-727-2433  Customer Support
  fax:

  One Performance Way
  P.O. Box 2741
  Chapel Hill, NC 27514


Schwab Cycles
  orders:  1-800-343-5347
  info:      303-238-0243
  fax:       [phone]

  1565 Pierce St.
  Lakewood, CO  80214


Triathlete Zombies
  (800-999-2215)


The Womyn's Wheel, Inc.
  (Specializes in clothing and equipment for women)
  800-795-7433
  508-240-2437

  P.O. Box 2820
  Orleans MA 02653

------------------------------

Subject: 9.3  Road Gradient Units
From: Jeff Berton <[e-mail]>

The grade of an incline is its vertical rise, in feet, per every 100 horizontal
feet traversed.  (I say "feet" for clarity;  one could use any consistent
length measure.)  Or, if you will accept my picture below,

                                                 *
                                              d  |
                                          a      |
                                      o          | y
                                  R  Theta       |
                              *___)______________|
                                        x
then
      Grade = y/x        (Multiply by 100 to express as a percentage.)
and
      Theta = arctan(y/x)

So a grade of 100% is a 45 degree angle.  A cliff has an infinite grade.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.4  Helmets

The wearing of helmets is another highly emotional issue that has been
debated many times on rec.bicycles.  On one side, you have the cyclists
who feel that they can do without - the helmet is too hot, uncomfortable,
or they feel they just don't need it.  On the other side, you have
the cyclists who wouldn't be caught riding without a helmet - they like
their head (and brains) they way they are.

Statistics show that three-fourths of the more than 1000 bicycling
deaths each year are caused by head injuries.  Of those killed, half
are school age children.  According to one study, a helmet can reduce
the risk of head injury by 85%.

Consumer Reports did a review of bicycle helmets in the May 1990 issue.
While their report is not what one would see in a cycling magazine,
it does contain some useful and valuable information.  Their tests
showed that no-shell helmets work just as well as hard-shell helmets,
and in fact, the top 9 helmets in their ratings are no-shell models.

There is some controversy about whether no-shell helmets "grab" the
pavement instead of sliding on impact.  If the helmet grabbed, it
might lead to more serious neck or spinal injury.  This topic has
been hotly debated in rec.bicycles, and some studies are in progress
to see if this is true.

There are two standards systems for helmets - ANSI (American National
Standards Institute) and Snell (the Snell Memorial Foundation).  The
Snell tests are more demanding than ANSI, and a Snell-certified helmet
will have a green Snell sticker inside.  Some helmets claim they
pass Snell, but unless there's a sticker in the helmet, you can't
be sure.  Snell also tests samples of certified helmets to make sure
they still meet the standards.

According to Bell Helmets, the shelf life of their helmets is 8 years.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.5  Terminology
From: David Keppel <[e-mail]>,
      Charles Tryon  <[e-mail]>

Ashtabula Crank
    A one-piece crank -- the crank arm starts on one side of the
    bike, bends to go through the bottom bracket, and bends
    again on the other side to go down to the other pedal.
    Typically heavy, cheap, and robust.  See ``cottered crank''
    and ``cotterless crank''.  Ashtabula is the name of the
    original manufacturer, I think.

Biopace Chainring

    Chainrings that are more oval rather than round.  The idea was
    to redistribute the forces of pedaling to different points as your
    feet go around, due to the fact that there are "dead spots" in the
    stroke.  The concensus is pretty much that they work ok for
    novices, but get in the way for more experienced riders.

Cassette Freewheel

    A cassette freewheel is used with a freehub.  The part of
    a normal freewheel that contains the pawls that transfer
    chain motion to the wheel (or allows the wheel to spin
    while the chain doesn't move) is part of the wheel hub.
    The cassette is the cogs, usually held together with small
    screws.

Cleat

    A cleat attaches to the bottom of a cycling shoe.  Older style
    cleats have a slot that fits over the back of the pedal,
    and in conjunction with toe clips and straps, hold your foot
    on the pedal.  New "clipless" pedals have a specially designed
    cleat that locks into the pedal, sometimes with some ability
    to move side-to-side so as not to stress knees.

Cottered Crank
    A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle.  The arms
    each have a hole that fits over the end of the axle and a
    second hole that runs tangential to the first.  The crank
    axle has a tangential notch at each end.  A *cotter* is a
    tapered and rounded bar of metal that is inserted in the
    tangential hole in the crank arm and presses against the
    tangential notch in the crank axle.  The cotter is held in
    place by a nut screwed on at the thin end of the cotter.
    Ideally, the cotter is removed with a special tool.  Often,
    however, it is removed by banging on it with a hammer.  If
    you do the latter (gads!) be sure (a) to unscrew the nut
    until the end of the cotter is nearly flush, but leave it on
    so that it will straighten the threads when you unscrew it
    farther and (b) brace the other side of the crank with
    something very solid (the weight of the bike should be
    resting on that `something') so that the force of the
    banging is not transmitted through the bottom bracket
    bearings.

Cotterless Crank
    A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle.  Currently
    (1991) the most common kind of crank.  The crank axle has
    tapered square ends, the crank arms have mating tapered
    square ends.  The crank arm is pressed on and the taper
    ensures a snug fit.  The crank arm is drawn on and held in
    place with either nuts (low cost, ``nutted'' cotterless
    cranks) or with bolts.  A special tool is required to remove
    a cotterless crank.

Crank Axle
    The axle about which the crank arms and pedals revolve.  May
    be integrated with the cranks (Ashtabula) or a separate
    piece (cottered and cotterless).

Fender
    Also called a ``mudguard''.  Looked down upon by tweak
    cyclists, but used widely in the Pacific Northwest and many
    non-US parts of the world.  Helps keep the rider cleaner and
    drier.  Compare to ``rooster tail''.

Frame Table
    A big strong table that Will Not Flex and which has anchors
    at critical places -- dropouts, bottom bracket, seat, head.
    It also has places to attach accurate measuring instruments
    like dial gauges, scratch needles, etc.  The frame is clamped
    to the table and out-of-line parts are yielded into alignment.

High-Wheeler
    A bicycle with one large wheel and one small wheel.  The
    commonest are large front/small rear.  A small number are
    small front/large rear.  See ``ordinary'' or
    ``penny-farthing'' and contrast to ``safety''.

Hyperglide Freewheel

    Freewheel cogs with small "ramps" cut into the sides of the cogs
    which tend to pull the chain more quickly to the next larger cog
    when shifting.

Ordinary
    See ``penny-farthing''.

Penny-Farthing
    An old-fashioned ``high wheeler'' bicycle with a large
    (60", 150cm) front wheel and a much smaller rear wheel, the
    rider sits astride the front wheel and the pedals are
    connected directly to the front wheel like on many
    children's tricycles.  Also called ``ordinary'', and
    distinguished from either a small front/large rear high
    wheeler or a ``safety'' bicycle.

Rooster Tail
    A spray of water flung off the back wheel as the bicycle
    rolls through water.  Particularly pronounced on bikes
    without fenders.  See also ``fender''.

Safety
    Named after the ``Rover Safety'' bicycle, the contemporary
    layout of equal-sized wheels with rear chain drive.  Compare
    to ``ordinary''.

Spindle
    See ``crank axle''.

Three-Piece Crank
    A cottered or cotterless crank; compare to Ashtabula.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.6  Avoiding Dogs
From: Arnie Berger <[e-mail]>

  There are varying degrees of defense against dogs.

  1- Shout "NO!" as loud and authoritatively as you can. That works more
     than half the time against most dogs that consider chasing you just
     good sport.

  2- Get away from their territory as fast as you can.

  3- A water bottle squirt sometimes startles them.

  4- If you're willing to sacifice your pump, whump'em on the head when they
     come in range.

  If they're waiting for you in the road and all you can see are teeth
  then you in a heap o' trouble. In those situations, I've turned around,
  slowly, not staring at the dog, and rode away. When I have been in a stand
  off situation, I keep the bike between me and the dog.

  "Halt" works pretty well, and I've used it at times. It's range is about 8
   feet.

   I bought a "DAZER", from Heathkit. Its a small ultrasonic sound generator
   that you point at the dog. My wife and I were tandeming on a back road and
   used it on a mildly aggressive German Shephard. It seemed to cause the
   dog to back off.

   By far, without a doubt, hands down winner, is a squirt bottle full of
   reagent grade ammonia, fresh out of the jug. The kind that fumes when
   you remove the cap. When I lived in Illinois I had a big, mean dog that
   put its cross-hairs on my leg whenever I went by. After talking to the
   owner (redneck), I bought a handebar mount for a water bottle and loaded
   it with a lab squirt bottle of the above mentioned fluid. Just as the
   dog came alongside, I squirted him on his nose, eyes and mouth. The dog
   stopped dead in his tracks and started to roll around in the street.
   Although I continued to see that dog on my way to and from work, he
   never bothered me again.

   Finally, you can usually intimidate the most aggressive dog if there are
   more than one of you. Stopping, getting off your bikes and moving towards
   it will often cause it to back off. ( But not always ). My bottom line
   is to alway ride routes that I'm not familiar with, with someone else.

   As last resort, a nice compact, snubbed nose .25 caliber pistol will fit
   comfortably in your jersey pocket. :-)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.7  Shaving Your Legs

 How to do it  (Garth Somerville  [e-mail])

  Many riders shave their legs and have no problems other than
  a nick or two once in a while.  Maybe a duller blade would help.
  But some people (like me) need to be more careful to avoid
  rashes, infections (which can be serious), or just itchy legs that
  drive you to madness.  For those people, here is my
  leg shaving procedure:

  Each time you shave your legs...
  1) Wash your legs with soap and water, and a wash cloth. This
     removes dirt, oil, and dead skin cells.
  2) Use a good blade and a good razor. I prefer a blade that has
     a lubricating strip (e.g. Atra blades).  It is my personal
     experience that a used blade is better than a new one.  I
     discard the blade when the lubricating strip is used up.
  3) USE SHAVING CREAM. I prefer the gell type, and the kinds with
     aloe in them seem to be the best.  Shaving cream gives you a
     better shave with fewer cuts, and goes a long way towards
     preventing infection.
  4) Use *COLD* water.  Do not use hot water, do not use warm water,
     use the coldest water you can stand. Run the cold water over your
     legs before you start, and rinse the blade often in cold water.
  5) Be careful, and take your time. Behind the knees, and around the
     achilles  tendon are places to be extra careful.
  6) When finished, use a moisturizing lotion on your legs.


Why shave legs  (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])

Oh wow, after the initial responses to this subject I thought we could
skip the posturing.  The reason for shaving legs is the same for
women, weight lifters, body builders and others who have parts of
their bodies that they choose to display.  It is not true that General
Schwarzkopf had all the troops shave their legs and arms before going
into combat to prevent infectious hair from killing injured soldiers,
and I am sure it will never happen.

Not only the shaving but the rub-downs with all sorts of oils at the
bike track are for the same reason bodybuilders oil up.  It reflects
well from the muscle defo.  Of course there are others who claim you
can't get a massage without shaving.  There is no medical proof that
hair presents any hazard when crashing on a road with dirt that gets
into a wound.  It must all be thoroughly cleaned if it goes beyond
superficial road rash.

From my experience with cyclists from east block countries before
Glasnost, none of them shaved because it was not in their charter to
look beautiful but rather to win medals.

I think shaved legs look good and I don't mind saying so.  I just find
it silly that those who shave need to put it forth as a preparation
for crashing.  Is it necessary to find a reason other than vanity?  If
you believe these stories then you might consider the whole pile of
lore in bicycling that also has no foundation in fact but is often
retold.  But then some bicyclists and followers of other pursuits,
want to believe in the mysteries that are handed down by the elders
and must be taken on faith.  It forms proof of initiation for some.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.8  Contact Lenses and Cycling
From: Robert A. Novy <[e-mail]>

I received on the order of 50 replies to my general query about contact lenses
and bicycling.  Thank you!  To summarize, I have been wearing glasses for
nearly all of my 28 years, and taking up bicycling has at last made me weary of
them.

I visited an optometrist last week, and he confirmed what I had lightly feared:
 I am farsighted with some astigmatism, so gas-permeable hard lenses are the
ticket.  He has had about a 25% success rate with soft lenses in cases such as
mine.  I am now acclimating my eyes to the lenses, adding one hour of wear per
day.  In case these don't work out, I'll try two options.  First, bicycle
without prescription lenses (my sight is nearly 20-20 without any).  Second,
get a pair of prescription sport glasses.

I had a particular request for a summary, and this is likely a topic of great
interest, so here goes.  Please recognize the pruning that I must do to draw
generalizations from many opinions.  Some minority views might be overlooked.
There is one nearly unanimous point:  contact lenses are much more convenient
than eyeglasses.  I had to add the word "nearly" because I just saw one voice
of dissent.  Sandy A. ([e-mail]) has found that prescription
glasses are better suited to mountain biking on dusty trails.

You can call me Doctor, but I have no medical degree.  This is only friendly
advice from a relatively ignorant user of the Internet.  See the first point
below!

IN GENERAL

+  Get a reputable optometrist or ophthalmologist.  Your eyes are precious.
[Paul Taira ([e-mail]) even has an iterative check-and-balance
setup between his ophthalmologist and a contact lens professional.]

+  Wear sunglasses, preferably wrap-arounds, to keep debris out of eyes, to
keep them from tearing or drying out, and to shield them from ultraviolet rays,
which might or might NOT be on the rise.

+  Contacts are not more hazardous than glasses in accidents.

+  Contacts improve peripheral and low-light vision.

+  Extended-wear soft lenses are usually the best.  Next come regular soft
lenses and then gas-permeable hard lenses.  Of course, there are dissenting
opinions here.  I'm glad to see that some people report success with gas perms.

+  One's prescription can limit the types of lenses available.  And soft lenses
for correcting astigmatisms seem pesky, for they tend to rotate and thus
defocus the image.  This is true even for the new type that are weighted to
help prevent this.  Seems that near-sighted people have the most choices.

+  If one type or brand of lens gives discomfort, try another.  Don't suffer
with it, and don't give up on contact lenses altogether.

BEWARE

+  Some lenses will tend to blow off the eye.  Soft lenses are apparently the
least susceptible to this problem.

PARTICULAR SUGGESTIONS

+  Consider disposable lenses.  They may well be worth it.

+  Carry a tiny bottle of eye/lens reconditioner and a pair of eyeglasses just
in case.

A POSSIBLE AUTHORITY

From David Elfstrom ([e-mail]):
  Hamano and Ruben, _Contact Lenses_, Prentice-Hall Canada, 1985, ISBN
0-13-169970-9.
I haven't laid hands on it, but it sounds relevant.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.9  How to deal with your clothes

When you commute by bike to work, you'd probably like to have clean
clothes that don't look like they've been at the bottom of your closet
for a couple of years.  Here are some suggestions for achieving this
goal:

  Take a week's worth of clothes to work ahead of time and leave them
  there.  You'll probably have to do this in a (gasp!) car.  This
  means that you'll need room in your office for the clothes.

  Carefully pack your clothes in a backpack/pannier and take them to
  work each day.  It has been suggested that rolling your clothes
  rather than folding them, with the least-likely to wrinkle on the
  inside.  This method may not work too well for the suit-and-tie
  crowd, but then I wouldn't know about that.  :-)

I use the second method, and I leave a pair of tennis shoes at work so
I don't have to carry them in.  This leaves room in my backpack for
a sweatshirt in case it's a cool day.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.10  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
From: Pete Hickey <[e-mail]>

I am a commuter who cycles year round.  I have been doing it
for about twelve years.  Winters here in Ottawa are
relatively cold and snowy.  Ottawa is the second coldest
capital in the world.  The following comments are the
results my experiences.  I am not recommending them, only
telling you what works for me.  You may find it useful, or
you may find the stupid things that I do are humorous.

PRELUDE

Me:

I am not a real cyclist.  I just ride a bicycle.  I have
done a century, but that was still commuting.  There was a
networking conference 110 miles away, so I took my bicycle.
There and back. (does that make two centuries?)  I usually
do not ride a bicycle just for a ride.  Lots of things I say
may make real cyclists pull out their hair.  I have three
kids, and cannot *afford* to be a bike weenie.

People often ask me why I do it....  I don't know.  I might
say that it saves me money, but no.  Gasoline produces more
energy per dollar than food. (OK, I suppose if I would eat
only beans, rice and pasta with nothing on them.... I like
more variety) Do I do it for the environment?  Nah!  I never
take issues with anything.  I don't ride for health,
although as I get older, I appreciate the benefits.  I guess
I must do it because I like it.


Definitions

Since words like "very", "not too", etc. are very
subjective, I will use the following definitions:

    Cold : greater than  15 degrees F
    Very cold : 0 through 15 Degrees F
    Extreme cold : -15 through 0 degrees F
    Insane cold: below -15 degrees F


Basic philosophy

I have two:

    1) If its good, don't ruin it, if its junk you
       needn't worry.

    2) I use a brute force algorithm of cycling: Peddle
       long    enough, and you'll get there.

Bicycle riding in snow and ice is a problem of friction:
Too much of the rolling type, and not enough of the sideways
type.


Road conditions:

More will be covered below, but now let it suffice to say
that a lot of salt is used on the roads here.  Water
splashed up tastes as salty as a cup of Lipton Chicken soup
to which an additional spool of salt has been added. Salt
eats metal.  Bicycles dissolve.

EQUIPMENT:

Bicycle:

Although I have a better bicycle which I ride in nice
weather, I buy my commuting bikes at garage sales for about
$25.00. They're disposable.  Once they start dissolving, I
remove any salvageable parts, then throw the rest away.

Right now, I'm riding a '10-speed' bike.  I used to ride
mountain bikes, but I'm back to the '10-speed'.  Here's why.
Mountain bikes cost $50.00 at the garage sales.  They're
more in demand around here. Since I've ridden both, I'll
comment on each one.

The Mountain bikes do have better handling, but they're a
tougher to ride through deep snow.  The 10-speed cuts
through the deep snow better.  I can ride in deeper snow
with it, and when the snow gets too deep to ride, its easier
to carry.

Fenders on the bike?  Sounds like it might be a good idea,
and someday I'll try it out.  I think, however, that
snow/ice will build up between the fender and the tire
causing it to be real tough to pedal.  I have a rack on the
back with a piece of plywood to prevent too much junk being
thrown on my back.

I would *like* to be able to maintain the bike, but its
tough to work outside in the winter.  My wife (maybe I
should write to Dear Abbey about this) will not let me bring
my slop covered bicycle through the house to get it in the
basement.  About once a month We have a warm enough day that
I am able to go out with a bucket of water, wash all of the
gunk off of the bike, let it dry and then bring it in.

I tear the thing down, clean it and put it together with
lots of grease.  I use some kind of grease made for farm
equipment that is supposed to be more resistant to the
elements.  When I put it together, I grease the threads,
then cover the nuts, screws, whatever with a layer of
grease.  This prevents them from rusting solidly in place
making it impossible to remove.  Protection against
corrosion is the primary purpose of the grease.  Lubrication
is secondary. remember to put a drop of oil on the threads
of each spoke, otherwise, the spokes rust solidly, and its
impossible to do any truing

Outside, I keep a plastic ketchup squirter, which I fill with
automotive oil (lately its been 90 weight standard
transmission oil).  Every two or three days, I use it to re-
oil my chain and derailleur, and brakes.  It drips all over
the snow beneath me when I do it, and gets onto my
'cuffs'(or whatever you call the bottom of those pants.
See, I told you I don't cycle for the environment.  I
probably end up dumping an ounce of heavy oil into the snow
run-off each year.


Clothing

Starting at the bottom, on my feet I wear Sorell Caribou
boots. These are huge ugly things, but they keep my feet
warm.  I have found that in extreme to insane cold, my toes
get cold otherwise. These boots do not make it easy to ride,
but they do keep me warm (see rule 2, brute force).  They do
not fit into any toe-clips that I have seen.  I used to wear
lighter things for less cold weather, but I found judging
the weather to be a pain.  If its not too cold, I ride with
them half unlaced.  The colder it gets, the more I lace
them, and finally, I'll tie them.

Fortunately, wet days are not too cold, and cold days are
not wet.  When its dry, I wear a pair of cycling shorts, and
one or two (depending on temp and wind) cotton sweat pants
covering that.  I know about lycra and polypro (and use them
for skiing), but these things are destroyed by road-dirt,
slush and mud.(see rule 1 above).  I save my good clothes
for x-country skiing.

An important clothing item in extreme to insane cold, is a
third sock.  You put it in your pants.  No, not to increase
the bulge to impress the girls, but for insulation.
Although several months after it happens it may be funny,
when it does  happens, frostbite on the penis is not funny.
I speak from experience!  Twice, no less!  I have no idea
of what to recommend to women in this section.

Next in line, I wear a polypro shirt, covered by a wool
sweater, covered by a 'ski-jacket' (a real ugly one with a
stripe up the back.  The ski jacket protects the rest of my
clothes, and I can regulate my temperature with the zipper
in front.

I usually take a scarf with me.  For years I have had a fear
that the scarf would get caught in the spokes, and I'd be
strangled in the middle of the street, but it has not yet
happened.  When the temp is extreme or colder, I like
keeping my neck warm.  I have one small problem.  Sometimes
the moisture in my breath will cause the scarf to freeze to
my beard.

On my hands, I wear wool mittens when its not too cold, and
when it gets really cold, I wear my cross-country skiing
gloves (swix) with wool mittens covering them.  Hands sweat
in certain areas (at least mine do), and I like watching the
frost form on the outside of the mittens.  By looking at the
frost, I can tell which muscles are working.  I am amused by
things like this.

On my head, I wear a toque (Ski-hat?) covered by a bicycle
helmet. I don't wear one of those full face masks because I
haven't yet been able to find one that fits well with eye
glasses.  In extreme to insane cold, my forehead will often
get quite cold, and I have to keep pulling my hat down.  The
bottoms of my ears sometimes stick out from my hat, and
they're always getting frostbitten. This year, I'm thinking
of trying my son's Lifa/polypro balaclava. Its thin enough
so that it won't bother me, and I only need a bit more
protection from frostbite.

I carry my clothes for the day in a knapsack.  Everything that
goes in the knapsack goes into a plastic bag.  Check the plastic
bag often for leaks.  A small hole near the top may let in water
which won't be able to get out.  The net result is that things
get more wet than would otherwise be expected.  The zippers will
eventually corrode.  Even the plastic ones become useless after
a few years.


RIDING:

In the winter, the road is narrower.  There are snow banks
on either side.  Cars do not expect to see bicycles.  There
are less hours of daylight, and the its harder to maintain
control of the bicycle. Be careful.

I don't worry about what legal rights I have on the road, I
simply worry about my life.  I'd rather crash into a snow
bank for sure rather than take a chance of crashing into a
car.  I haven't yet had a winter accident in 12 years.  I've
intentionally driven into many snow banks.

Sometimes, during a storm, I get into places where I just
can't ride.  It is sometimes necessary to carry the bicycle
across open fields.  When this happens, I appreciate my
boots.

It takes a lot more energy to pedal.  Grease gets thick, and
parts (the bicycle's and mine) don't seem to move as easily.
My traveling time increases about 30% in nice weather, and
can even double during a raging storm.

The wind seems to be always worse in winter.  It's not
uncommon to have to pedal to go down hills.

Be careful on slushy days.  Imagine an 8 inch snowfall
followed by rain.  This produces heavy slush.  If a car
rides quickly through deep slush, it may send a wave of the
slush at you. This stuff is heavy.  When it hits you, it
really throws you off balance.  Its roughly like getting a
10 lbs sack of rotten potatoes thrown at your back.  This
stuff could even knock over a pedestrian.

Freezing rain is the worst.  Oddly enough, I find it easier
to ride across a parking lot covered with wet smooth ice
than it is to walk across it.  The only problem is that
sometimes the bicycle simply slides sideways out from under
you.  I practice unicycle riding, and that may help my
balance.  (Maybe not, but its fun anyway)

Beware of bridges that have metal grating.  This stuff gets
real slippery when snow covered.  One time, I slid, hit an
expansion joint, went over the handle bars, over the railing
of the bridge.  I don't know how, but one arm reached out
and grabbed the railing.  Kind of like being MacGyver.


Stopping.

There are several ways of stopping.  The first one is to use
the brakes.  This does not always work.  Breaks can ice up,
a bit of water gets between the cable and its sheathing when
the warm afternoon sun shines on the bike. It freezes solid
after. Or the salt causes brake cables to break, etc.  I
have had brakes work on one corner, but stop working by the
time I get to the next.  I have several other means of
stopping.

The casual method.  For a stop when you have plenty of time.
Rest the ball of your foot on top of the front derailleur,
and *gradually* work your heel between the tire and the
frame. By varying the pressure, you can control your speed.
Be sure that you don't let your foot get wedged in there!

Faster method.  Get your pedals in the 6-12 O'clock
position. Stand up.  The 6 O'clock foot remains on the
pedal, while you place the other foot on the ground in front
of the pedal.  By varying your balance, you can apply more
or less pressure to your foot.  The pedal, wedged against
the back of your calf, forces your foot down more, providing
more friction.

Really fast!  Start with the fast method, but then dismount
while sliding the bicycle in front of you.  You will end up
sliding on your two feet, holding onto the bike in front for
balance.  If it gets *really* critical, throw the bike ahead
of you, and sit down and roll.  Do not do this on dry
pavement, your feet need to be able to slide.

In some conditions, running into a snow bank on the side
will stop you quickly, easily, and safely.  If you're going
too fast, you might want to dive off of the bicycle over the
side.  Only do this when the snow bank is soft.  Make sure
that there isn't a car hidden under that soft snow.  Don't
jump into fire hydrants either.


ETC.

Freezing locks.  I recommend carrying a BIC lighter.  Very
often the lock will get wet, and freeze solid.  Usually the
heat from my hands applied for a minute or so (a real minute
or so, not what seems like a minute) will melt it, but
sometimes it just needs more than that.

Eating Popsicles

Something I like doing in the winter is to buy a Popsicle
before I leave, and put it in my pocket.  It won't melt!  I
take it out and start eating it just as I arrive at the
University.  Its fun to watch peoples' expressions when they
see me, riding in the snow, eating a Popsicle.


You have to be careful with Popsicles in the winter.  I once
had a horrible experience.  You know how when you are a kid,
your parents told you never to put your tongue onto a metal
pole? In very cold weather, a Popsicle acts the same way.
If you are not careful, your upper lip, lower lip, and
tongue become cemented to the Popsicle.  Although this
sounds funny when I write about it, it was definitely not
funny when it happened.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.11  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
From: Nancy Piltch <[e-mail]>

Here are some clothing suggestions, mix and match as you wish:

Rain gear : I forked out the dollars for gore-tex when I did a week tour
  ... and I'm real glad I did. The stuff works reasonably as claimed,
  waterproof, and relatively breathable. (When the humidity is high, no
  fabric will work completely at letting sweat evaporate.) Unfortunately,
  typical prices are high. There are cheaper rainsuits, which I haven't tried.
  For short rides, or when the temperature is over about 50F, I don't
  usually wear the rain pants, as wet legs don't particularly bother me.

Waterproof shoe covers. When the weather gets icky, I give up on
  the cleats (I'm not riding for performance then, anyway) and put
  the old-style pedals back on. This is basically because of the
  shoe covers I have that work better with touring shoes. The ones
  I have are made by Burley, and are available from Adventure Cycling Association,
  though I got them at a local shop. They are just  the cover, no
  insulation. I continue to use them in winter since they are windproof,
  and get the insulation I need from warm socks. These aren't neoprene,
  but rather some high-tech waterproof fabric.

Gaiters that hikers and cross-country skiers wear can help keep road
  spray off your legs and feet.

Toe clip covers. I got them from Nashbar; they are insulated and fit
  over the toe clips ... another reason for  going back to those pedals.
  They help quite a bit when the temperature goes into the 30's and below;
  they are too warm above that.

For temperatures in the 40's I usually find that a polypropylene shirt,
  lightweight sweater (mine is polypro) and wind shell work well; I use
  the gore-tex jacket, since I have it, but any light weight jacket
  is OK. I have a lightweight pair of nylon-lycra tights, suitable in
  the 50's, and maybe the 40's; a heavier pair of polypro tights, for
  40's, and a real warm pair of heavy, fleece-lined tights for colder
  weather. (I have been comfortable in them down to about 15-deg, which
  is about the minimum I will ride in.) My tights are several years
  old, and I think there are lots more variations on warm tights out now.
  I use thin polypro glove liners with my cycling gloves when it is a little
  cool; lightweight gloves  for a little bit cooler; gore-tex and thinsulate
  gloves for cold weather (with the glove liners in the really cold weather.)
  It is really my fingers that limit my cold weather riding, as anything
  any thicker than that limits my ability to work brake levers.
  (Note: this may change this year as I've just bought a mountain bike;
  the brake levers are much more accessible than on my road bike. It may
  be possible to ride with warm over-mitts over a wool or similar glove.)

When it gets down to the 20's, or if it's windy at warmer (!)  temperatures,
  I'll add the gore-tex pants from my rain suit, mostly as wind protection,
  rather than rain protection. Cheaper wind pants are available (either
  at bike shops or at sporting goods stores) that will work just as well
  for that use.

Warm socks. There are lots of choices; I use 1 pair of wool/polypropylene
  hiking socks (fairly thick). Then with the rain covers on my shoes to
  keep out wind, and (if necessary) the toe clip covers, I'm warm enough.
  There are also thin sock liners, like my glove liners, but I haven't
  needed them; there are also neoprene socks, which I've never tried,
  and neoprene shoe covers, which I've also never tried, and wool socks,
  and ski socks ...

I have a polypropylene balaclava which fits comfortably under my helmet;
  good to most of the temperatures I'm willing to ride in; a little too
  warm for temperatures above freezing, unless it's also windy. I also have
  an ear-warmer band, good for 40's and  useful with the balaclava for
  miserable weather. I also have a neoprene face mask; dorky looking, but
  it works. It is definitely too hot until the temperature (or wind) gets
  severe. I sometimes add ski goggles for the worst conditions, but they
  limit peripheral vision, so I only use   them if I'm desperate.

For temperatures in the 30's, and maybe 20's, I wear a polarfleece
  pullover thing under the outer shell. Combining that with or without
  polypro (lightweight) sweater or serious duty wool sweater gives a
  lot of options. Sometimes I add a down vest -- I prefer it *outside*
  my shell (contrary to usual wisdom) because I usually find it too
  warm once I start moving and want to unzip it, leaving the wind
  shell closed for wind protection. I only use the down vest when it's
  below about 15 F.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.12  Studded Tires
From: Nancy Piltch <[e-mail]>

[A summary on studded tires compiled by Nancy.  A complete copy of
the responses she received, including some that give directions for
making your own studded tires, is in the archive.]

Studded tires do help, especially on packed snow and ice. On fresh snow
and on water mixed with snow (i.e. slush) they're not significantly different
from unstudded knobbies.

On dry pavement they are noisy and heavy, but can be used; watch out for
cornering, which is degraded compared to unstudded tires.

Several people recommend a Mr. Tuffy or equivalent with them; one
respondent says he gets more flats with a liner than without.

In the U.S. the IRC Blizzard tires are commercially available. They
can also be made.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.13  Cycling Myths

Following are various myths about cycling and why they are/aren't true.


Myth: Wearing a helmet makes your head hotter than if you didn't wear one.

Actual measurements under hard riding conditions with ANSI standard
helmets show no consistent temperature difference from helmetless
riders.  Part of the reason is that helmets provide insulated
protection from the sun as well as some airflow around the head.
(Les Earnest  [e-mail])


Myth: You need to let the air out of your tires before shipping your bike
      on an airplane - if you don't, the tires will explode.

Assume your tire at sea level, pumped to 100 psi.  Air pressure at sea
level is (about) 15psi. Therefore, the highest pressure which can be
reached in the tire is 100+15=115psi.  Ergo: There is no need to
deflate bicycle tires prior to flight to avoid explosions.
(Giles Morris  [e-mail])
Addendum:  The cargo hold is pressurized to the same pressure as the
passenger compartment.
(Tom ?  [e-mail])


Myth: You can break a bike lock with liquid nitrogen or other liquified gases

Freon cannot cool the lock sufficiently to do any good.  Steel
conducts heat into the cooling zone faster than it can be removed by a
freeze bomb at the temperatures of interest.  Liquid nitrogen or other
gasses are so cumbersome to handle that a lock on a bike cannot be
immersed as it must be to be effective.  The most common and
inconspicuous way to break these locks is by using a 4 inch long 1
inch diameter commercial hydraulic jack attached to a hose and pump
unit.
(Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])

[More myths welcome!]

------------------------------

Subject: 9.14  Descending I
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

     Descending ability, like any other skill, is best improved
with practice. The more time you can spend on technical descents
the more confidence and speed you will be able to develop. A few
local hot shots I know practice on their motorcycles before races
with strategic descents. While frequent group rides are the only
way to develop real bike handling skills descending with others
will not necessarily help you descend faster alone.

     The most important aspect of fast descending is relaxation.
Too much anxiety can narrow your concentration and you will miss
important aspects of the road surface ahead. Pushing the speed to
the point of fear will not help develop descending skills. Work
on relaxation and smoothness (no sudden movements, braking or
turning) and the speed will follow.

     A fast descender will set up well in advance of the corner
on the outside, do whatever braking needs to be done before
beginning to turn, hit the apex at the inside edge of the road,
finally exiting again on the outside (always leaving some room
for error or unforeseen road hazard). The key is to _gradually_
get into position and _smoothly_ follow your line through the
corner. If you find yourself making _any_ quick, jerky movements
take them as a sign that you need to slow down and devote a
little more attention further up the road.

     Use your brakes only up to the beginning of a corner, NEVER
USE THE BRAKES IN A CORNER. At that point any traction used for
braking significantly reduces the traction available for
cornering. If you do have to brake after entering the curve
straighten out your line before applying the brakes. If the road
surface is good use primarily the front brake. If traction is
poor switch to the rear brake and begin breaking earlier. In auto
racing circles there are two schools of thought on braking
technique. One advocates gradually releasing the brakes upon
entering the corner, the other advises hard braking right up to
the beginning of the curve and abruptly releasing the brakes just
before entering the curve. A cyclists would probably combine the
techniques depending on the road surface, rim trueness, brake pad
hardness and the proximity of other riders.

     Motorcyclists and bicyclists lean their bikes very
differently in a corner. When riding fast motorcyclists keep
their bikes as upright as possible to avoid scraping the bike.
Bicyclists on the other hand lean their bikes into the corner and
keep the body upright. Both motorcyclists and bicyclists extend
the inside knee down to lower the center of gravity. To _pedal_
through the corners make like a motorcyclists and lean the bike
up when the inside pedal is down.

     One of the most difficult things about descending in a group
is passing. It is not always possible to begin the descent ahead
of anyone who may be descending slower. If you find yourself
behind someone taking it easy either hang out a safe distance
behind or pass very carefully. Passing on a descent is always
difficult and dangerous. By the same token, if you find yourself
ahead of someone who obviously wants to pass, let them by at the
earliest safe moment. It's never appropriate to impede someone's
progress on a training ride whether they are on a bicycle or in a
car. Always make plenty of room for anyone trying to pass no
matter what the speed limit may be. Be courteous and considerate
and you'll be forever happy.

     Remember that downhill racing is not what bicycle racing is
all about. There is no need to keep up with the Jones'. This is
what causes many a crash. Compete against yourself on the
descents. Belgians are notoriously slow descenders due to the
consistently rainy conditions there. Yet some of the best
cyclists in the world train on those rainy roads. Don't get
caught pushing it on some wet or unfamiliar descent. Be prepared
for a car or a patch of dirt or oil in the middle of your path
around _every_ blind corner no matter how many times you've been
on a particular road. Take it easy, relax, exercise your powers
of concentration and hammer again when you can turn the pedals.

     If you're interested in exploring this further the best book
on bike handling I've read is "Twist of The Wrist" by motorcycle
racer Keith Code. There is also data out there (Cycle Magazine)
on eye exercises designed to train depth perception adjustment,
peripheral vision and concentration. If you know where I can
find this information please send it to:

     NCNCA District Coaching Office
     Roger Marquis
     782 San Luis Rd.
     Berkeley, Ca 94707

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part5

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 9.15  Descending II
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

The Art of Descending  (an assessment)

Descending on a bicycle requires a combination of skills that are
more commonly used in motorcycling.  Only when descending does the
bicycle have the power and speed that the motorcycle encounters
regularly, not to say that criterium racing doesn't also challenge
these skills.  It requires a combination of lean angle and braking
while selecting an appropriate line through curves.  Unlike
motorcycle tires, bicycle tires have little margin and even a small
slip on pavement is usually unrecoverable.  Understanding the forces
involved and how to control them is more natural to some than
others.  For some these skills may have atrophied from disuse at an
early age and need to be regenerated.

How to Corner

Cornering is the skill of anticipating the appropriate lean angle
with respect to the ground before you get to the apex of the turn.
The angle is what counts and it is limited by traction.  This means
you must have an eye for traction.  For most pavement this is about
45 degrees in the absence of oil, water or other smooth and slick
spots.  So if the curve is banked 10 degrees, you could lean to 55
degrees from the vertical.  In contrast, a crowned road with no
banking, where the surface falls off about 10 degrees, would allow
only 35 degrees (at the limit).

Estimating the required lean angle for a curve is derived from the
apparent traction and what your speed will be in the apex of the
turn at the current rate of braking.  Anticipating the lean angle is
something humans, animals and birds do regularly in self propulsion.
When running you anticipate how fast and sharply you can turn on the
sidewalk, dirt track or lawn on which you run.  You estimate the
lean for the conditions and you control your speed to not exceed
that angle.  Although the consequences are more severe, the same is
true for the bicycle.

These are reflexes that are normal to most people in youth but some
have not exercised them in such a long time that they don't trust
their skills.  A single fall strongly reinforces this doubt.  For
this reason, it is best to improve and regenerate these abilities
gradually through practice.

Braking

Once the nuts and bolts of getting around a corner are in place the
big difference between being fast and being faster is another
problem entirely.  First it must be understood that braking is a
primary skill that is greatly misunderstood.  When traction is good,
the front brake should be used almost exclusively because, with it,
the bike can slow down so rapidly that the back wheel lifts off the
road.  When slowing down at this rate the rear brake is obviously
useless.  Once you enter the curve, more and more traction is used
by the lean angle but braking is still used to trim speed.  This is
done with both brakes because neither wheel has much additional
traction to give.  It is good to practice hard front braking at a
low and safe speed to develop a feel for rear wheel lift-off.

You may ask why you should be braking in the turn.  If you do all
your braking before the turn you will be going too slowly too early.
Because it is practically impossible to anticipate the exact maximum
speed for the apex of the turn, you should anticipate braking in the
turn.  Fear of braking usually comes from an incident caused by
injudicious braking.  How you use the front and rear brake must be
adapted to various conditions.  When riding straight ahead with good
traction, you can safely allow substantial transfer of weight from
the rear to the front wheel allowing strong use of the front brake.
When traction is poor, deceleration and weight transfer is small, so
light braking with both wheels is appropriate.  If traction is
miserable, you should use only the rear brake because, although a
rear skid is permissible, one in the front is not.

Take for example a rider cornering on good traction, banked over at
45 degrees.  With 1 G centrifugal acceleration, he can still apply
the brakes at 0.1 G. The increases in side force on the wheels is
given by the square root(1^2+0.1^2)=1.005.  In other words, you can
do appreciable braking while at maximum cornering.  The centrifugal
acceleration is also reduced by the square of the speed by which the
lean angle rapidly reduces.  Being aware of this relationship should
leave no doubt about why racers are often seen pulling their brake
levers in max speed turns.

Suspension

Beyond lean and braking, suspension helps immeasurably in
descending.  For bicycles without built-in suspension, this is
furnished by your legs.  If the road has fine ripples you needn't
stand up but merely take the weight off your pelvic bones.  For
rougher roads, you should rise high enough so the saddle does not
carry any weight.  The reason for this is twofold.  Your vision will
become blurred if you don't rise off the saddle, and traction will
be compromised by momentary overloads while skipping over bumps.
The ideal is to keep the tire on the ground at uniform load.

Some riders believe that sticking out their knee or leaning their
body away from the bike, improves cornering.  Sticking out a knee is
the same thing that riders without cleats do when they stick out a
foot, it is a useless but reassuring gesture that, on uneven roads,
actually works against you.  Any body weight that is not centered on
the bicycle (leaning the bike or sticking out a knee) puts a side
load on the bicycle, and side loads cause steering motions if the
road is not smooth.  To verify this, ride down a straight but rough
road standing on one pedal with the bike slanted, and note how the
bike follows an erratic course.  In contrast, if you ride centered
on the bike you can ride no-hands perfectly straight over rough
road.  When you lean off the bike you cannot ride a smooth line over
road irregularities, especially in curves.  For best control, stay
centered over your bike.

Vision

Where you look is critical to effective descending.  Your central
vision involves mostly the cones in the retina of your eye.  These
are color receptive and images generally are more time consuming to
interpret than information received by the rods in the peripheral
vision.  For this reason you should focus on the pavement where your
tire will track while looking for obstacles and possible oncoming
traffic in your peripheral vision that is fast and good at detecting
motion.  If you look at the place where an oncoming vehicle or
obstacle might appear, its appearance will bring data processing to
a halt for a substantial time.  You needn't identify the color or
model of car so leave it to the peripheral vision in high speed
black and white because processing speed is essential.

The Line

Picking the broadest curve through a corner should be obvious by the
time the preceding skills are mastered but the line is both a matter
of safety and road surface.  Sometimes it is better to hit a bump or
a "Bott's dot" than to alter the line, especially at high speed.  In
that respect, your tire should be large enough to absorb the entire
height of a "Bott's dot" without pinching the tube.

Mental Speed

Mental speed is demanded by all of these and, it is my experience,
those who are slow to grasp an idea, do not have good hand-eye
coordination, or are "accident prone", should be extra cautious in
this.  In contrast, being quick does not guarantee success either.
Above all, it is important to not be daring but rather to ride with
a margin that leaves a comfortable feeling rather than one of high
risk.  At the same time, do not be blinded by the age old
presumption that everyone who rides faster than I is crazy.  It is
one of the most common descriptions used by a slower observer.  "He
descended like a madman!" means merely that the speaker was slower,
nothing more.

Ride bike!

------------------------------

Subject: 9.16  Trackstands
From: Rick Smith <[e-mail]>

                How to trackstand on a road bike.

    With acknowledgments to my trackstanding mentor,
                  Neil Bankston.

  Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, ....

  1. Wear tennis shoes.
  2. Find an open area, like a parking lot that has a slight grade to it.
  3. Put bike in a gear around a 42-18.
  4. Ride around out of the saddle in a counter-clockwise circle, about
     10 feet in diameter.

     Label Notation for imaginary points on the circle:
       'A' is the lowest elevation point on the circle.
       'B' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'A' .
       'C' is the highest elevation point on the circle.
       'D' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'C' .

        C
      /   \
     D     B       Aerial View
      \   /
        A

   5. Start slowing down, feeling the different sensation as the bike
      transitions between going uphill (B) and downhill (D).
   6. Start trying to go real slowly through the A - B region of the circle.
      This is the region you will use for trackstanding.  Ride the rest of
      the circle as you were in step 5.

      The trackstanding position (aerial view again):

           ---|   /
    ------| |----/
           |---     /


      The pedal are in a 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock arrangement (in other
      words, parallel to the ground).  Your left foot is forward, your
      wheel is pointed left.  You are standing and shifting you weight
      to keep balance.  The key to it all is this:

      If you start to fall left, push on the left peddle to move the
      bike forward a little and bring you back into balance.

      If you start to fall right, let up on the peddle and let the
      bike roll back a little and bring you back into balance.

    7. Each time you roll through the A - B region, try to stop when
       the left peddle is horizontal and forward.  If you start to
       lose your balance, just continue around the circle and try it
       again.

    8. Play with it.  Try doing it in various regions in the circle,
       with various foot position, and various amounts of turn in your
       steering.  Try it on different amounts of slope in the
       pavement.  Try different gears.  What you are shooting for is
       the feel that's involved, and it comes with practice.

The why's of trackstanding:

  Why is road bike specified in the title?
      A true trackstand on a track bike is done differently.  A track
      bike can be peddled backwards, and doesn't need a hill to
      accomplish the rollback affect.  Track racing trackstands
      are done opposite of what is described.  They take place on the
      C - D region of the circle, with gravity used for the roll
      forward, and back pedaling used for the rollback.  This is so
      that a racer gets the assist from gravity to get going again
      when the competition makes a move.

  Why a gear around 42-18?
      This is a reasonable middle between too small, where you would
      reach the bottom of the stroke on the roll forward, and too big,
      where you couldn't generate the roll forward force needed.

  Why is the circle counter-clockwise?
      Because I assume you are living in an area where travel is done
      on the right side of the road.  When doing trackstands on the road,
      most likely it will be at traffic lights.  Roads are crowned - higher
      in the middle, lower on the shoulders - and you use this crown as
      the uphill portion of the circle (region A-B).  If you are in a
      country where travel is done on the left side of the road,
      please interpret the above aerial views as subterranial.

  Why is this done out of the saddle?
      It's easier!!  It can be done in while seated, but you lose the
      freedom to do weight adjustments with your hips.

  Why is the left crank forward?
      If your right crank was forward, you might bump the front wheel
      with your toe.  Remember the steering is turned so that the back
      of the front wheel is on the right side of the bike.  Some bikes
      have overlap of the region where the wheel can go and your foot
      is.  Even if your current bike doesn't have overlap, it's better
      to learn the technique as described in case you are demonstrating
      your new skill on a bike that does have overlap.

  Why the A - B region?
      It's the easiest.  If you wait till the bike is around 'B', then
      you have to keep more force on the peddle to hold it still.  If
      you are around the 'A' point, there may not be enough slope to
      allow the bike to roll back.

Questions:

  What do I  do if I want to stop on a downhill?
      While there are techniques that can be employed to keep you in
      the pedals, for safety sake I would suggest getting out of the
      pedals and putting your foot down.

Other exercises that help:

    Getting good balance.  Work through this progression:
      1. Stand on your right foot.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      2. Close your eyes.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      3. Go up on your toes.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      4. If you get to here, never mind, your balance is already wonderful,
         else repeat with other foot.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.17  Front Brake Usage
From: John Forester <[e-mail]>

   I have dealt for many years with the problem of explaining front
brake use, both to students and to courtrooms, and I have reached
some conclusions, both about the facts and about the superstitions.

   The question was also asked about British law and front brakes.
I'll answer that first because it is easier. British law requires
brakes on both wheels, but it accepts that a fixed gear provides the
required braking action on the rear wheel. I think that the
requirement was based on reliability, not on deceleration. That is,
if the front brake fails, the fixed-gear cyclist can still come to a
stop.

   In my house (in California) we have three track-racing bikes
converted to road use by adding brakes. Two have only front brakes
while the third has two brakes. We have had no trouble at all, and we
ride them over mild hills. The front-brake-only system won't meet the
normal U.S. state traffic law requirement of being able to skid one
wheel, because that was written for coaster-braked bikes, but it
actually provides twice the deceleration of a rear-wheel-braked bike
and nobody, so far as I know, has ever been prosecuted for using such
a setup.

   The superstitions about front brake use are numerous. The most
prevalent appears to be that using the front brake without using the
rear brake, or failing to start using the rear brake before using the
front brake, will flip the cyclist. The other side of that
superstition is that using the rear brake will prevent flipping the
bicycle, regardless of how hard the front brake is applied.

   The truth is that regardless of how hard the rear brake is
applied, or whether it is applied at all, the sole determinant (aside
from matters such as bicycle geometry, weight and weight distribution
of cyclist and load, that can't practically be changed while moving)
of whether the bicycle will be flipped is the strength of application
of the front brake. As the deceleration to produce flip is
approached, the weight on the rear wheel decreases to zero, so that
the rear wheel cannot produce any deceleration; with no application
of the rear brake it rolls freely, with any application at all it
skids at a force approaching zero. With typical bicycle geometry, a
brake application to attempt to produce a deceleration greater than
0.67 g will flip the bicycle. (Those who advocate the cyclist moving
his butt off and behind the saddle to change the weight distribution
achieve a very small increase in this.)

   A typical story is that of a doctor who, now living in the higher-
priced hilly suburbs, purchased a new bicycle after having cycled to
med school on the flats for years. His first ride was from the bike
shop over some minor hills and then up the 15% grade to his house.
His second ride was down that 15% grade. Unfortunately, the rear
brake was adjusted so that it produced, with the lever to the
handlebar, a 0.15 g deceleration. The braking system would meet the
federal requirements of 0.5 g deceleration with less than 40 pounds
grip on the levers, because the front brake has to do the majority of
the work and at 0.5 g there is insufficient weight on the rear wheel
to allow much more rear brake force than would produce 0.1 g
deceleration. (The U.S. regulation allows bicycles with no gear
higher than 60 inches to have only a rear-wheel brake that provides
only 0.27 g deceleration.) I don't say that the rear brake adjustment
of the bicycle in the accident was correct, because if the front
brake fails then the rear brake alone should be able to skid the rear
wheel, which occurs at about 0.3 g deceleration. The doctor starts
down the hill, coasting to develop speed and then discovering that he
can't slow down to a stop using the rear brake alone. That is because
the maximum deceleration produced by the rear brake equalled, almost
exactly, the slope of the hill. He rolls down at constant speed with
the rear brake lever to the handlebar and the front brake not in use
at all. He is afraid to apply the front brake because he fears that
this will flip him, but he is coming closer and closer to a curve,
after which is a stop sign. At the curve he panics and applies the
front brake hard, generating a force greater than 0.67 g deceleration
and therefore flipping himself. Had he applied the front brake with
only a force to produce 0.1 g deceleration, even 100 feet before the
curve, he would have been safe, but in his panic he caused precisely
the type of accident that he feared. He thought that he had a good
case, sued everybody, and lost. This is the type of superstition that
interferes with the cycling of many people.

   My standard instruction for people who fear using the front brake
is the same instruction for teaching any person to brake properly.
Tell them to apply both brakes simultaneously, but with the front
brake 3 times harder than the rear brake. Start by accelerating to
road speed and stopping with a gentle application. Then do it again
with a harder application, but keeping the same 3 to 1 ratio. Then
again, harder still, until they feel the rear wheel start to skid.
When the rear wheel skids with 1/4 of the total braking force applied
to it, that shows that the weight distribution has now progressed as
far to the front wheel as the average cyclist should go. By repeated
practice they learn how hard this is, and attain confidence in their
ability to stop as rapidly as is reasonable without any significant
risk.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.18  Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Wind as well as relative wind caused by moving through still air
demands most of a bicyclists effort on level ground.  Most riders
recognize when they are subjected to wind because it comes in gusts
and these gusts can be distinguished from the more uniform wind caused
by moving through still air.  That's the catch.  At the break of dawn
there is often no wind as such but cool air near the ground, being
colder and more dense than higher air slides downslope as a laminar
layer that has no turbulent gusts.

Wind in mountain valleys generally blows uphill during the heat of the
day and therefore pilots of light aircraft are warned to take off
uphill against the morning slope wind.  Slope wind, although detectable,
is not readily noticed when standing or walking because it has
negligible effect and does not come in apparent gusts.  The bicyclist,
in contrast, is hindered by it but cannot detect it because there is
always wind while riding.

Slope wind, as such, can be up to 10 mph before it starts to take on
the characteristics that we expect of wind.  It is doubly deceptive
when it comes from behind because it gives an inflated speed that can
be mistakenly attributed to great fitness that suddenly vanishes when
changing course.  If you live near aspen or poplars that tend to fan
their leaves in any breeze, you will not be fooled.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.19  Reflective Tape
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

Reflective tape is available in most better bike shops in various
forms, most of which is pre-cut to some preferred shape and designed
for application to some specific part of the bike or apparel.  The most
effective use of such tape is on moving parts such as pedals, heel of
the shoe or on a place that is generally overlooked, the inside of the
rim.

First, it is appropriate to note that car headlights generally produce
white light and a white or, in fact, colorless reflector returns more
of this light to its source than ones with color filters or selective
reflection.  Red, for instance, is not nearly as effective as white.

Placing reflective tape on the inside of the rims between the spokes
is a highly effective location for night riding because it is visible
equally to the front and rear while attracting attention through its
motion.  It is most effective when applied to less than half the rim
in a solid block.  Five inter-spoke sections does a good job.  One can
argue that it isn't visible from the side (if the rim is not an aero
cross section) but the major hazard is from the front and rear.

Be seen on a bike!  It's good for your health.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.20  Nutrition
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <[e-mail]>

Oh well, I have been promising to do this for a while and given the present
discussions on nutrition, it is about the right time.  This article was
written in 1980 for Bicycling Magazine.  It has been reprinted in over 30
publications, been the basis for a chapter in a book and cited numerous
other times.  I guess somebody besides me thinks its OK.  If you disagree
with any points, that's fine, I just don't want to see people take exception
based on their own personal experiences because everyone is different and
psychological factors play a big role(much bigger than you would think)
on how one perceives his/her own nutritional requirements.  Remember that
good nutrition is a LONG TERM process that is not really affected by short
term events(drinking poison would be an exception).  If it works for you
then do it!!!  Don't preach!!!!



        BASIC NUTRITION PRIMER

Nutrition in athletics is a very controversial topic.  However, for
an athlete to have confidence that his/her diet is beneficial he/she
must understand the role each food component plays in the body's
overall makeup.  Conversely, it is important to identify and understand
the nutritional demands on the physiological processes of the body
that occur as a result of racing and training so that these needs
can be satisfied in the athlete's diet.

For the above reasons, a basic nutrition primer should help the athlete
determine the right ingredients of his/her diet which fit training and
racing schedules and existing eating habits.  The body requires three
basic components from foods: 1) water; 2) energy; and 3)nutrients.

WATER

Water is essential for life and without a doubt the most important
component in our diet.  Proper hydrations not only allows the body to
maintain structural and biochemical integrity, but it also prevents
overheating, through sensible heat loss(perspiration).  Many cyclists have
experienced the affects of acute fluid deficiency on a hot day, better
known as heat exhaustion.  Dehydration can be a long term problem,
especially at altitude, but this does not seem to be a widespread
problem among cyclists and is only mentioned here as a reminder(but
an important one).

ENERGY

Energy is required for metabolic processes, growth and to support
physical activity.  The Food and Nutrition Board of the National
Academy of Sciences has procrastinated in establishing a Recommended
Daily Allowance(RDA) for energy the reasoning being that such a daily
requirement could lead to overeating.  A moderately active 70kg(155lb)
man burns about 2700 kcal/day and a moderately active 58kg(128lb) woman
burns about 2500 kcal/day.

It is estimated that cyclists burn 8-10 kcal/min or about 500-600
kcal/hr while riding(this is obviously dependent on the level of
exertion).  Thus a three hour training ride can add up to 1800
kcals(the public knows these as calories) to the daily energy demand
of the cyclist.  Nutritional studies indicate that there is no
significant increase in the vitamin requirement of the athlete as a
result of this energy expenditure.

In order to meet this extra demand, the cyclist must increase his/her
intake of food.  This may come before, during or after a ride but most
likely it will be a combination of all of the above.  If for some
reason extra nutrients are required because of this extra energy
demand, they will most likely be replenished through the increased
food intake.  Carbohydrates and fats are the body's energy sources and
will be discussed shortly.

NUTRIENTS

This is a broad term and refers to vitamins, minerals, proteins, carbohydrates,
fats, fiber and a host of other substances.  The body is a very complex product
of evolution.  It can manufacture many of the resources it needs to survive.
However, vitamins, minerals and essential amino acids(the building blocks of
proteins) and fatty acids cannot be manufactured, hence they must be supplied
in our food to support proper health.

Vitamins and Minerals

No explanation needed here except that there are established RDA's for most
vitamins and minerals and that a well balanced diet, especially when
supplemented by a daily multivitamin and mineral tablet should meet all
the requirements of the cyclist.

Proper electrolyte replacement(sodium and potassium salts) should be
emphasized, especially during and after long, hot rides.  Commercially
available preparations such as Exceed, Body Fuel and Isostar help
replenish electrolytes lost while riding.

Proteins

Food proteins are necessary for the synthesis of the body's skeletal(muscle,
skin, etc.) and biochemical(enzymes, hormones, etc.)proteins.  Contrary
to popular belief, proteins are not a good source of energy in fact they
produce many toxic substances when they are converted to the simple sugars
needed for the body's energy demand.

Americans traditionally eat enough proteins to satisfy their body's
requirement.  All indications are that increased levels of exercise do
not cause a significant increase in the body's daily protein
requirement which has been estimated to be 0.8gm protein/kg body
weight.

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates are divided into two groups, simple and complex, and serve
as one of the body's two main sources of energy.

Simple carbohydrates are better known as sugars, examples being fructose,
glucose(also called dextrose), sucrose(table sugar) and lactose(milk sugar).

The complex carbohydrates include starches and pectins which are multi-linked
chains of glucose.  Breads and pastas are rich sources of complex
carbohydrates.

The brain requires glucose for proper functioning which necessitates a
carbohydrate source.  The simple sugars are quite easily broken down to
help satisfy energy and brain demands and for this reason they are an ideal
food during racing and training.  The complex sugars require a substantially
longer time for breakdown into their glucose sub units and are more suited
before and after riding to help meet the body's energy requirements.

Fats

Fats represent the body's other major energy source.  Fats are twice as
dense in calories as carbohydrates(9 kcal/gm vs 4 kcal/gm) but they are
more slowly retrieved from their storage units(triglycerides) than
carbohydrates(glycogen).  Recent studies indicate that caffeine may help
speed up the retrieval of fats which would be of benefit on long rides.

Fats are either saturated or unsaturated and most nutritional experts
agree that unsaturated, plant-based varieties are healthier.  Animal
fats are saturated(and may contain cholesterol), while plant based fats
such as corn and soybean oils are unsaturated.  Unsaturated fats are
necessary to supply essential fatty acids and should be included in the
diet to represent about 25% of the total caloric intake.  Most of this
amount we don't really realize we ingest, so it is not necessary to heap
on the margarine as a balanced diet provides adequate amounts.

WHAT THE BODY NEEDS

Now that we have somewhat of an understanding of the role each food
component plays in the body's processes let's relate the nutritional
demands that occur during cycling in an attempt to develop
an adequate diet.  Basically our bodies need to function in three
separate areas which require somewhat different nutritional considerations.
These areas are: 1) building; 2) recovery; and 3) performance.

Building

Building refers to increasing the body's ability to perform physiological
processes, one example being the gearing up of enzyme systems necessary
for protein synthesis, which results in an increase in muscle mass, oxygen
transport, etc.  These systems require amino acids, the building blocks of
proteins.  Hence, it is important to eat a diet that contains quality proteins
(expressed as a balance of the essential amino acid sub units present)fish,
red meat, milk and eggs being excellent sources.

As always, the RDA's for vitamins and minerals must also be met but, as with
the protein requirement, they are satisfied in a well balanced diet.

Recovery

This phase may overlap the building process and the nutritional requirements
are complimentary.  Training and racing depletes the body of its energy
reserves as well as loss of electrolytes through sweat.  Replacing the
energy reserves is accomplished through an increased intake of complex
carbohydrates(60-70% of total calories) and to a lesser extent fat(25%).
Replenishing lost electrolytes is easily accomplished through the use
of the commercial preparations already mentioned.

Performance

Because the performance phase(which includes both training rides and
racing)spans at most 5-7 hours whereas the building and recovery phases
are ongoing processes, its requirements are totally different from the
other two.  Good nutrition is a long term proposition meaning the effects
of a vitamin or mineral deficiency take weeks to manifest themselves.
This is evidenced by the fact that it took many months for scurvy to
show in sailors on a vitamin C deficient diet.  What this means is that
during the performance phase, the primary concern is energy replacement
(fighting off the dreaded "bonk") while the vitamin and mineral demands
can be overlooked.

Simple sugars such a sucrose, glucose and fructose are the quickest
sources of energy and in moderate quantities of about 100gm/hr(too much
can delay fluid absorption in the stomach) are helpful in providing fuel
for the body and the brain.  Proteins and fats are not recommended because
of their slow and energy intensive digestion mechanism.

Short, one day rides or races of up to one hour in length usually require
no special nutritional considerations provided the body's short term energy
stores (glycogen) are not depleted which may be the case during multi-day
events.

Because psychological as well as physiological factors determine performance
most cyclists tend to eat and drink whatever makes them feel "good" during a
ride.  This is all right as long as energy considerations are being met and
the stomach is not overloaded trying to digest any fatty or protein containing
foods.  If the vitamin and mineral requirements are being satisfied during the
building and recovery phases no additional intake during the performance phase
is necessary.


IMPLICATIONS

Basically, what all this means is that good nutrition for the cyclist is
not hard to come by once we understand our body's nutrient and energy
requirements.  If a balanced diet meets the RDA's for protein, vitamins
and minerals as well as carbohydrate and fat intake for energy then everything
should be OK nutritionally.  It should be remembered that the problems
associated with nutrient deficiencies take a long time to occur.  Because
of this it is not necessary to eat "right" at every meal which explains
why weekend racing junkets can be quite successful on a diet of tortilla
chips and soft drinks.  However, bear in mind that over time, the body's
nutritional demands must be satisfied.  To play it safe many cyclists
take a daily multivitamin and mineral supplement tablet which has no adverse
affects and something I personally recommend.  Mega vitamin doses(levels
five times or more of the RDA) have not been proven to be beneficial and may
cause some toxicity problems.

GREY NUTRITION

"Good" nutrition is not black and white.  As we have seen, the body's
requirements are different depending on the phase it is in.  While the
building and recovery phases occur somewhat simultaneously the performance
phase stands by itself.  For this reason, some foods are beneficial during
one phase but not during another.  A good example is the much maligned
twinkie.  In the performance phase it is a very quick source of energy
and quite helpful.  However, during the building phase it is not necessary
and could be converted to unwanted fat stores.  To complicate matters, the
twinkie may help replenish energy stores during the recovery phase however,
complex carbohydrates are probably more beneficial.  So, "one man's meat
may be another man's poison."

NUTRIENT DENSITY

This term refers to the quantity of nutrients in a food for its accompanying
caloric(energy) value.  A twinkie contains much energy but few vitamins and
minerals so has a low nutrient density.  Liver, on the other hand, has a
moderate amount of calories but is rich in vitamins and minerals and is
considered a high nutrient density food.

Basically, one must meet his/her nutrient requirements within the
constraints of his/her energy demands.  Persons with a low daily
activity level have a low energy demand and in order to maintain their
body weight must eat high nutrient density foods.  As already
mentioned, a cyclist has an increased energy demand but no significant
increase in nutrient requirements.  Because of this he/she can eat
foods with a lower nutrient density than the average person.  This
means that a cyclist can be less choosy about the foods that are eaten
provided he/she realizes his/her specific nutrient and energy
requirements that must be met.

BALANCED DIET

Now, the definition of that nebulous phrase, "a balanced diet".  Taking into
consideration all of the above, a diet emphasizing fruits and vegetables
(fresh if possible), whole grain breads, pasta,  cereals, milk, eggs, fish and
red meat(if so desired) will satisfy long term nutritional demands.
These foods need to be combined in such a way that during the building and
recovery phase, about 60-70% of the total calories are coming from carbohydrate
sources, 25% from fats and the remainder(about 15%) from proteins.

It is not necessary to get 100% of the RDA for all vitamins and minerals
at every meal.  It may be helpful to determine which nutritional
requirements you wish to satisfy at each meal.  Personally, I use breakfast
to satisfy part of my energy requirement by eating toast and cereal.  During
lunch I meet some of the energy, protein and to a lesser extent vitamin and
mineral requirements with such foods as yogurt, fruit, and peanut butter
and jelly sandwiches.  Dinner is a big meal satisfying energy, protein,
vitamin and mineral requirements with salads, vegetables, pasta, meat and
milk.  Between meal snacking is useful to help meet the body's energy
requirement.

CONCLUSION

All this jiberish may not seem to be telling you anything you couldn't
figure out for yourself.  The point is that "good" nutrition is not
hard to achieve once one understands the reasons behind his/her dietary
habits.  Such habits can easily be modified to accommodate the nutritional
demands of cycling without placing any strict demands on one's lifestyle.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.21  Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
From: Phil Etheridge <[e-mail]>

                Nuclear Free Energy Bars
                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Comments and suggestions welcome.

They seem to work well for me.  I eat bananas as well, in about equal quanities
to the Nuclear Free Energy Bars.  I usually have two drink bottles, one with
water to wash down the food, the other with a carbo drink.

You will maybe note that there are no dairy products in my recipe -- that's
because I'm allergic to them.  You could easily replace the soy milk powder
with the cow equivalent, but then you'd definitely have to include some
maltodextrin (my soy drink already has some in it).  I plan to replace about
half the honey with maltodextrin when I find a local source.  If you prefer
cocoa to carob, you can easily substitute.

C = 250 ml cup, T = 15 ml tablespoon

1 C Oat Bran
1/2 C Toasted Sunflower and/or Sesame seeds, ground (I use a food processor)
1/2 C Soy Milk Powder (the stuff I get has 37% maltodextrin, ~20% dextrose*)
1/2 C Raisins
2T Carob Powder

Mix well, then add to

1/2 C Brown Rice, Cooked and Minced (Using a food processor again)
1/2 C Peanut Butter (more or less, depending on consistency)
1/2 C Honey (I use clear, runny stuff, you may need to warm if it's thicker
    and/or add a little water)

Stir and knead (I knead in more Oat Bran or Rolled Oats) until thoroughly
mixed.  A cake mixer works well for this.  The bars can be reasonably soft, as
a night in the fridge helps to bind it all together.  Roll or press out about
1cm thick and cut.  Makes about 16, the size I like them (approx 1cm x 1.5cm x
6cm).

* Can't remember exact name, dextrose something)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.22  Powerbars Recipe
From: John McClintic <[e-mail]>

Have you ever watched a hummingbird? Think about it! Hummingbirds
eat constantly to survive. We lumpish earthbound creatures are in
no position to imitate this. Simply, if we overeat we get fat.

There are exceptions: those who exercise very strenuously can
utilize - indeed, actually need - large amounts of carbohydrates.

For example, Marathon runners "load" carbohydrates by stuffing
themselves with pasta before a race. On the flip side Long-distance
cyclists maintain their energy level by "power snacking".

With reward to the cyclist and their need for "power snacking"
I submit the following "power bar" recipe which was originated
by a fellow named Bill Paterson. Bill is from Portland Oregon.

The odd ingredient in the bar, paraffin, is widely used in chocolate
manufacture to improve smoothness and flowability, raise the melting
point, and retard deterioration of texture and flavor. Butter can be
used instead, but a butter-chocolate mixture doesn't cover as thinly
or smoothly.

POWER BARS
----------

1     cup regular rolled oats
1/2     cup sesame seed
1 1/2    cups dried apricots, finely chopped
1 1/2    cups raisins
1    cup shredded unsweetened dry coconut
1    cup blanched almonds, chopped
1/2     cup nonfat dry milk
1/2     cup toasted wheat germ
2    teaspoons butter or margarine
1    cup light corn syrup
3/4    cup sugar
1 1/4    cups chunk-style peanut butter
1    teaspoon orange extract
2    teaspoons grated orange peel
1    package (12 oz.) or 2 cups semisweet chocolate
    baking chips
4     ounces paraffin or 3/4 cup (3/4 lb.) butter or
    margarine

Spread oats in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 300 degree
oven until oats are toasted, about 25 minutes. Stir frequently to
prevent scorching.

Meanwhile, place sesame seed in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over
medium heat. Shake often or stir until seeds are golden, about 7 minutes.

Pour into a large bowl.  Add apricots, raisins, coconut, almonds,
dry milk, and wheat germ; mix well.  Mix hot oats into dried fruit
mixture.

Butter the hot backing pan; set aside.

In the frying pan, combine corn syrup and sugar; bring to a rolling
boil over medium high heat and quickly stir in the peanut butter,
orange extract, and orange peel.

At once, pour over the oatmeal mixture and mix well. Quickly spread
in buttered pan an press into an even layer. Then cover and chill
until firm, at least 4 hours or until next day.

Cut into bars about 1 1/4 by 2 1/2 inches.

Combine chocolate chips and paraffin in to top of a double boiler.
Place over simmering water until melted; stir often. Turn heat to low.

Using tongs, dip 1 bar at a time into chocolate, hold over pan until
it stops dripping (with paraffin, the coating firms very quickly), then
place on wire racks set above waxed paper.

When firm and cool (bars with butter in the chocolate coating may need
to be chilled), serve bars, or wrap individually in foil. Store in the
refrigerator up to 4 weeks; freeze to store longer. Makes about 4 dozen
bars, about 1 ounce each.

Per piece: 188 cal.; 4.4 g protein; 29 g carbo.; 9.8 g fat;
       0.6 mg chol.; 40 mg sodium.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.23  Calories burned by cycling
From: Jeff Patterson <[e-mail]>

The following table appears in the '92 Schwinn ATB catalog which references
Bicycling, May 1989:
---------
Speed
(mph)    12   14   15   16   17   18   19
Rider
Weight         Calories/Hr
110     293  348  404  448  509  586  662
120     315  375  437  484  550  634  718
130     338  402  469  521  592  683  773
140     360  430  502  557  633  731  828
150     383  457  534  593  675  779  883
160     405  485  567  629  717  828  938
170     427  512  599  666  758  876  993
180     450  540  632  702  800  925 1048
190     472  567  664  738  841  973 1104
200     495  595  697  774  883 1021 1159

 (flat terrain, no wind, upright position)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.24  Road Rash Cures
From: E Shekita <[e-mail]>

[Ed note:  This is a condensation of a summary of cures for road rash that
Gene posted.]

The July 1990 issue of Bicycle Guide has a decent article on road
rash. Several experienced trainers/doctors are quoted.  They generally
recommended:

   - cleaning the wound ASAP using an anti-bacterial soap such as Betadine.
     Showering is recommended, as running water will help flush out dirt
     and grit. If you can't get to a shower right away, at the very least
     dab the wound with an anti-bacteria solution and cover the wound with
     a non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin to prevent
     infection and scabbing. The wound can then be showered clean when you
     get home. It often helps to put an ice bag on the wound after it has
     been covered to reduce swelling.

   - after the wound has been showered clean, cover the wound with either
     1) a non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin, or 2) one
     of the Second Skin type products that are available. If you go the telfa
     pad route, daily dressing changes will be required until a thin layer
     of new skin has grown over the wound. If you go the Second Skin route,
     follow the directions on the package.

The general consensus was that scabbing should be prevented and that the
Second Skin type products were the most convenient -- less dressing changes
and they hold up in a shower. (Silvadene was not mentioned, probably because
it requires a prescription.)

It was pointed out that if one of the above treatments is followed, then
you don't have to go crazy scrubbing out the last piece of grit or dirt
in the wound, as some people believe. This is because most of the grit
will "float" out of the wound on its own when a moist dressing is used.

There are now products that go by the names Bioclusive, Tegaderm,
DuoDerm, Op-Site, Vigilon, Spenco 2nd Skin, and others, that are like
miracle skin. This stuff can be expensive ($5 for 8 3x4 sheets), but
does not need to be changed.  They are made of a 96% water substance
called hydrogel wrapped in thin porous plastic.  Two non-porous plastic
sheets cover the hydrogel; One sheet is removed so that the hydrogel
contacts the wound and the other non-porous sheet protects the wound.

These products are a clear, second skin that goes over the cleaned
(ouch!) wound. They breathe, are quite resistant to showering, and
wounds heal in around 1 week.  If it means anything, the Olympic
Training Center uses this stuff. You never get a scab with this, so you
can be out riding the same day, if you aren't too sore.

It is important when using this treatment, to thoroughly clean the
wound, and put the bandage on right away. It can be obtained at most
pharmacies.  Another possible source is Spenco second skin, which is
sometimes carried by running stores and outdoor/cycling/ stores.  If
this doesn't help, you might try a surgical supply or medical supply
place. They aren't as oriented toward retail, but may carry larger sizes
than is commonly available. Also, you might check with a doctor, or
university athletic department people.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.25  Knee problems
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

As the weather becomes more conducive to riding and the
racing season gets going and average weekly training distances
start to climb a few of us will have some trouble with our
knees. Usually knee problem are caused by one of four things:

     1)  Riding too hard, too soon. Don't get impatient. It's
going to be a long season and there's plenty of time to get in
the proper progression of efforts. Successful cycling is a matter
of listening to your body. When you see riders burning out,
hurting themselves and just not progressing past a certain point
you can be fairly certain that it is because they are not paying
enough attention to what their body is telling them.

     2)  Too many miles. Your body is not a machine. It cannot be
expected to take whatever miles you feel compelled to ride
without time to grow and adapt. If you keep this in mind whenever
you feel like increasing your average weekly mileage by more than
forty miles over two or three weeks you should have no problems.

     3)  Low, low rpms (also excess crank length). Save those big
ring climbs and big gear sprints for later in the season. This is
the time of year to develop fast twitch muscle fibers. That means
spin, spin, spin. You don't have to spin all the time but the
effort put into small gear sprints and high rpm climbing now will
pay off later in the season.

     4)  Improper position on the bike. Unfortunately most
bicycle salespeople in this country have no idea how to properly
set saddle height. The most common error being to set it too low.
This is very conducive to developing knee problems because of the
excessive bend at the knee when the pedal is at, and just past,
top dead center.

Make sure your seat and cleats are adjusted properly by following the
adjustment procedures found elsewhere.

If after all this you're still having knee problems:

     1) Check for leg length differences both below and above the
knee. If the difference is between 2 and 8 millimeters you can
correct it by putting spacers under one cleat. If one leg is
shorter by more than a centimeter or so you might experiment with
a shorter crank arm on the short leg side.

     2) Use shorter cranks. For some riders this helps keep pedal
speed up and knee stress down. I'm 6 ft. 1/2 in. and I ride 170mm
cranks for most of the season.

     3) Try the Fit-Kit R.A.D. cleat alignment device and/or a
rotating type cleat/pedal like the Time pedal.

     4)  Cut way back on mileage and intensity (This is a last
resort for obvious reasons). Sometimes a prolonged rest is the
only way to regain full functionality and is usually required
only if you try to "train through" any pain.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.26  Cycling Psychology
From: Roger Marquis <[e-mail]>

     Motivation, the last frontier. With enough of it any
ordinary person can become a world class athlete. Without it this
same person could end up begging for change on Telegraph ave.
Even a tremendously talented rider will go nowhere without
motivation. How do some riders always seem to be so motivated?
What are the sources of their motivation? This has been a central
theme of sports psychology since its beginning when Triplett
studied the effects of audience and competition on performance in
the late nineteenth century. Though a great deal has been written
on motivation since Triplett it is an individual construct. As an
athlete you need to identify what motivates you and cultivate the
sources of your motivation.

     * One of the best sources of motivation is setting goals. Be
specific, put it down on paper. Define your goals clearly and
make them attainable. Short term goals are more important than
long term goals and should be even more precisely defined Set
long term goals such as training at least five days a week,
placing in specific races, upgrading, etc.. Set short term goals
for things like going on a good ride this afternoon, doing five
sprints, bettering your time up Wildcat, etc.. DO NOT STRESS
WINNING when defining your goals. Instead stress enjoying the
ride and doing your best in every ride and race.

     * Do it together. Going to races with friends, training
together and racing as a team is great for motivation. This is
what clubs should be all about.

     * Do it frequently. Regularity makes difficult tasks easy.
If you make it a point to ride every day, or at least five times
a week (to be competitive), making the daily ride will become
automatic.

     * Cycling books and videos are tremendously motivating as
are new bike parts, new clothing, new roads, nice weather, losing
weight, seeing friends, getting out of the city and breathing
fresh air, riding hard and feeling good and especially that great
feeling of accomplishment and relaxation at the end of every ride
that makes life beautiful.

                         ==============

     While high levels of arousal (motivational energy) are
generally better for shorter rides and track races, be careful
not to get over-aroused before longer, harder races. Stay relaxed
and conserve precious energy for that crosswind section or sprint
where you'll need all the strength you've got. Learn how psyched
you need to be to do your best and be aware of when you are over
or under aroused.

     It's not uncommon, especially for novices, to be so nervous
before the start that they are already fatigued on the line. This
much stress is dangerous and should be recognized and controlled
immediately. If you get too stressed before a race try counting
to ten, breathing deeply, stretching, talking to friends, finding
a quiet place to warm-up, or a crowded place to warm-up,
depending on your inclination, and remember that the stress will
disappearas soon as the race starts. Racing takes too much
concentration to spare any for worrying.

     Every athlete needs to be adept in stress management. One
new technique used to reduce competitive anxiety is imagery.
Mental practice has been credited with almost miraculous
improvements in fine motor skills (archery, tennis) but its
greatest value in gross motor sports is in stress reduction.
Actually winning a race can also help put an end to excessive
competitive anxiety. But if you have never won nervousness may be
keeping you from winning. If you find yourself getting
overstressed whenever you think about winning, or even riding, a
race try this; Find a quiet, relaxing place to sit and think
about racing. Second; Picture yourself driving to the race in a
very relaxed and poised state of mind. Continue visualizing the
day progressing into the race and going well until you detect
some tension THEN STOP. Do not let yourself get excited at all.
End the visualization session and try it again the next day.
Continue this DAILY until you can picture yourself racing and
winning without any stress. If this seems like a lot of work
evaluate just how much you want to win a bike race.

     Visualization is not meant to replace on the bike training
but can make that training pay off in a big way. Eastern European
research has found that athletes improve most quickly if visual
training comprises fifty to seventy-five percent of the total
time spent training! Like any training imagery will only pay off
if you do it regularly and frequently. My French club coach
always used to tell us: believe it and it will become true.

(C) 1989, Roger Marquis (see also Velo-News, 3-91)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.27  Mirrors
From: Jobst Brandt <[e-mail]>

> Mirrors are mandatory on virtually every other type of vehicle on
> the road.  Competent drivers/riders learn the limitations of the
> information available from their mirrors and act accordingly.

I suppose the question is appropriate because no one seems to have
a good explanation for this.  In such an event, when there is much
evidence that what would seem obvious is not what is practiced, I
assume there are other things at work.  I for one don't wear glasses
to which to attach a mirror and putting it on a helmet seems a
fragile location when the helmet is placed anywhere but on the head.

These are not the real reasons though, because I have found that when
looking in a head mounted mirror, I cannot accurately tell anything
about the following vehicle's position except that it is behind me.
That is because I am looking into a mirror whose angular position
with respect to the road is unknown.  The rear view mirror in a car
is fixed with respect to the direction of travel and objects seen in
it are seen with reference to ones own vehicle, be that the rear
window frame or side of the car.  I find the image in a head mounted
mirror on a bicycle to be distracting and a source of paranoia if
I watch it enough.  It does not tell me whether the upcoming car is,
or is not, going to slice me.

I additionally I find it difficult to focus on objects when my
eyeballs are distorted by turning them as much as 45 degrees to the
side of straight ahead.  You can try this by reading these words with
your head turned 45 degrees from the text.

I believe these two effects are the prime reasons for the unpopularity
of such mirrors.  They don't provide the function adequately and still
require the rider to look back.  I do not doubt that it is possible to
rely on the mirror but it does not disprove my contention that the
information seen is by no means equivalent to motor vehicle rear view
mirrors to which these mirrors have been compared.  It is not a valid
comparison.

------------------------------

Subject: ==> Powerbars NO more ---> homemade -- YES!!!
From:    [e-mail] (Eric Conrad)

I don't know about any of you out there in cyber-mtbike-land, but I was
getting tired of buying Powerbars and other nutrition supplements to enhance
my riding.  However, I do understand the benefit of having a quick, nutritious
snack that is full of energy on hand during a ride.

So I asked around and came up with a recipe for Powerbar-like bars that seem
to have a lot of what we need.  I'll place the recipe here on the Usenet for
all to copy, distribute ... [but please don't market them, cause I'll only
kick myself for not doing it first ;-)  ].

Please make them and enjoy them before you think about flaming me.  Trust me,
you'll like them much more than Powerbars, and they're cheaper to make than to
buy their counterpart.

ALSO, PLEASE POST ANY OTHER RECIPES YOU HAVE FOUND THAT HELP BIKING
PERFORMANCE!!!


Eric

BARS OF IRON  :-}

1 Cup dark raisins                1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 Cup golden raisins            1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/3 Cup butter or Margarine       1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 Cup sugar                     1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 egg                             1/2 Cup liquid milk
1 1/4 Cup Whole Wheat Flour       1 Cup quick cooking oats
1/4 Cup toasted wheat germ        1 Cup sliced almonds (optional)
1/2 Cup golden molasses (dark is ok also)
1/2 Cup Nonfat dry milk


Chop raisins (in food processor if possible).  Cream butter, sugar, molasses &
egg.

Combine flour, dry milk, wheat germ, baking powder, baking soda, salt and
ginger.  Blend into creamed mixture with liquid milk.  Stir in oats, raisins,
and half the almonds (if desired).

Pour into greased 13x9x2 inch pan and spread evenly.  Sprinkle with remaining
almonds (if desired).

Bake at 350 degrees for approx. 30 minutes.  Cool in pan and cut into 1x4 inch
bars.

------------------------------

Subject: 10  Off-Road

------------------------------

Subject: 10.1  Suspension Stems
From: Brian Lee <[e-mail]>

by Brian Lee & Rick Brusuelas, 1994

ABSTRACT:  Discussion of the differences between suspension stems
and suspension forks, and a listing of the pros & cons of suspension
stems.

DESCRIPTION:  The suspension stem discussed here is the
Allsop-type, which employs a linkage parallelogram and a spring
mechanism to effect shock-absorption.  Two models on the market
using this mechanism are the Allsop Softride, and  a version
produced by J.P. Morgen, a machinist based in San Francisco.
There is also a version put out by J.D Components of Taiwan
(advertised in Mountain Bike Action), however judging from
illustrations, this unit does not employ the parallelogram design
shared by Allsop & Morgen.  Other Taiwanese models may also exist.
The Girvin-type stem, which uses a simpler hinge and bumper, will
not be directly addressed here, although some of the comments
may also apply.

The Allsop-type suspension stem (suspension stem) works on a
different principal than a telescopic shock fork.  Instead of
only the front wheel moving to absorb shock, a stem allows the
entire front end of the bike to move with obstacles while the
rider's position does not change.

All suspension requires some form of "inertial backstop" to
operate.  A theoretical suspension (stem or fork) loaded with
zero mass will not function regardless of the size of obstacle
encountered.  This is because there is nothing to force the
compression of the spring mechanism.  It is essentially locked
out.

In a fork system, the weight of the bike & rider both provide the
inertial backstop.  In a stem system, the rider's weight on the
handlebars provides the backstop.  Because of this, the two
systems "ride" differently.

Since most of the weight comes from the pressure of the rider's
hands, the stem system encourages a more weight-forward style of
riding.  Or perhaps placing the stem on a frame with a shorter
top tube so the rider's weight is distributed more on the front
end.  (Shortening the front end has also been applied by frame
builders on frames intended for use with suspension forks.  Ex:
Bontrager.)

What does this mean to you and me?  It means the suspension stem
requires a certain amount of the rider's weight to be on it at
all times in order to remain completely active.  For the majority
of riding, it's just fine.  The only difference is in extremely
steep descents, where you are forced to keep the weight back in
order to keep from going over the bars.

In this situation, much less weight is on the bars to activate
the stem.  Further, if one were to encounter a largish rock on
such a descent, what does one do?  The instinctive thing is to
pull back a bit to unweight the front and help the front wheel
over.  This removes all the weight from the stem area, and you
are now riding a rigid bike again.

A fork system is also affected by weight shifts, but not quite to
the extent that a stem is affected, because of the weight of bike
& rider coming through the head tube to be distributed into the
fork.  Even if you were to remove your hands from the bars on a
gnarly descent and hang with butt brushing the rear wheel, you
are still applying weight to the bike through the pedals.

All this, of course, is theoretical and YMMV.  I, for one, am not
always able to react to obstacles coming at me and leave the
front end weighted.  When that happens, I'm very glad I have
suspension.

Now enough theory stuff, here's a summary of the advantages &
disadvantages of suspension stems:

PROs

1)  Lighter than a suspension fork.  This depends on the existing
stem/fork combination.  If the current stem and rigid fork are
heavy, then a suspension fork may be a better choice.  For
example, I've chosen the following items for comparison, as they
represent the lightest and heaviest of commercially available
stems & forks (weights for all stems are for conventional types -
non-Aheadset):

Litespeed Titanium          211g
Ritchey Force Directional   375g
Allsop Stem                 625g
Fat Chance Big One Inch     680g
Tange Big Fork             1176g
Manitou 3                  1360g
Lawwill Leader             1588g

So say you have a Litespeed stem and a Fat Chance fork.  The
combined weight would be 891 g.  Switching to an Allsop would
change the combined weight to 1305 g, while a Manitou 3 would
bring it to 1571 g.  The Allsop has a weight advantage of 266 g
(9.4 oz).

OTOH, if you have a Ritchey stem & Tange Big Fork, the original
weight would be 1551 g.  Allsop stem => 1801 g.  Manitou 3 => 1735
g.  In this case, keeping the boat anchor of a fork and switching
to the Allsop would be a weight penalty of 66 g (2.3 oz.).

Of course, YMMV depending on your original equipment.

2)  Does not affect frame geometry.  A suspension fork
retrofitted to a frame, *not* designed for suspension, raises the
front end - sometimes as much as 1".  This reduces the effective
head angle and slackens the steering, slowing it down.  This is
especially true for smaller sized frames which, with their
shorter wheel base, are affected to a greater degree by the
raising of the head tube.  A suspension stem provides suspension
while preserving the handling of the bike.

3)  Torsionally rigid fork.  Telescopic forks all have a certain
amount of flex to them,  and the sliders are able to move up &
down independently.  This aspect of front  suspension forks has
spawned a new line of suspension enhancing products:  stiffer
fork braces, and bigger, heavier suspension hubs.  All to stiffen
up the fork.  This is  one reason suspension stems are favored by
some riders who ride lots of tight, twisting single track.

4)  No stiction.  Stiction, or static friction, is friction that
exists as the fork sliders rub  against the stanchion tubes.
This friction is an extra force that must be overcome  for a fork
system to activate.  Not a problem on large hits.  But more of a
problem  on small- and medium-size impacts.  Because the stem has
none, the stem responds  better to small, high-frequency bumps
(washboard) than many air-oil forks.

5)  More boing for the buck.  The Allsop stem provides up to 3"
of stiction-free travel,  at a cost of about $250, depending
where you go.  The majority of forks in this  price range only
offer 1" - 2" of travel, and are often heavy, flexy, and fraught
with  stiction.  The fork could be stiffened, but at the
additional cost of a stiffer fork  brace or perhaps a suspension
hub and a rebuilt wheel (e.g. fork brace - $90; hub -  $80;
rebuild - $100.  Plus the original $350 for the fork.  YMMV).

6)  Better "feel".  The stem allows you to have a rigid fork,
which transmits more "information" back to the rider.  This is a
benefit when riding through creeks where you cannot see where
your wheel is.

7)  Less exposed to the environment.  The stem is higher, more
out of the way than suspension forks.  Thus you can ride through
creeks and mud without having to worry about your fork seals, or
about contaminating the innards of the fork.  Even if mud
splashes on a suspension stem, the pivots are less sensitive to
grit than sliders and stanchion tubes.

8)  Ease of maintenance.  There are no seals to replace or
service, no oil to replace, no air pressure to adjust, and no
bumpers to wear out.  An occasional lube of the pivots is all
that is needed.  An extension of this is the ease of initial set
up.  For best results, you have to set suspension (fork or stem)
to react according to your weight and riding style.  With air/oil
forks you may have to change oil, adjust pressure or change
damping settings (if the fork has them).  With bumper forks you
may need to swap out bumper stacks and mix-n-match bumpers until
you get what works for you.  With the stem, the only adjustment
is to increase or decrease the spring tension with an allen
wrench.


CONs

1)  No damping.  This is one of the main complaints from
proponents of suspension forks.  The suspension stem will give
way to absorb shock, but the return is not controlled and cannot
be adjusted.  JP Morgen currently makes a suspension stem which
employs oil-damping, but Allsop does not.

2)  Requires adjustment to riding style.  As mentioned above, the
stem requires weight to be applied to it to function.  This is
also one of the complaints applied to the Softride rear
suspension beam.  The flip-side to this, according to riders of
the Beam, is once the adjustment is made to "plant your butt on
the saddle" the ride is extremely comfortable and affords
excellent control by sticking the rear tire to the ground.

3)  Stem "clunks" on rebound.  The feeling is about the same as
suspension bottoming out, except it happens on the rebound.  This
is not as much a problem on the Allsop as on the Morgen stem,
which uses a hard plastic top-out bumper.  This is a subjective
complaint, as some riders claim not to notice it.

4)  Stem not torsionally rigid.  Another trade off.  The stem is
not proof to twisting forces and may be noticeable in hard,
out-of-the-saddle efforts.  Allsop has redesigned the top beam of
their aluminum stem for 1994 to address this problem.  Instead
of the aluminum "dog bone" structure for the top linkage member,
they've substituted a machined aluminum beam, reminiscent of a
cantilever bridge.

SUMMARY:  In my opinion, a suspension stem is an excellent choice
if one is retrofitting an existing bike, which has not been
designed around a suspension fork.  A suspension stem is also a
very good choice if one's primary riding is twisty singletrack,
where you need the sharp, precise steering of a rigid fork.
There are undoubtedly situations for which a stem may not be
ideal, but stems should not be dismissed as a viable form of
suspension.  The best thing to do is to try both types of
suspension if you can, and see what you like better.